Sommet de l'Aconcagua
19 September 2024 Mountaineering, Rest of the World, Seven Summits
Aconcagua: 4 routes to the highest peak in the Americas
Four routes for climbing Aconcagua, South America's highest peak at 6962 meters. The standard north-west route, via the east ridge known for the Polish traverse, via the Polish Glacier and the south face.
Ascension du Broad Peak
22 August 2024 Himalayas, Mountaineering, Fourteen 8000ers
Ascent of Broad Peak at 8047 meters in Pakistan
In the summer of 2024, Expeditions Unlimited had the opportunity to accompany Jean-François Descat and Julien Delteil, two experienced mountaineers, on their first expedition to very high altitude: the ascent of Broad Peak at 8047 meters in Pakistan.
Sommet de l'Everest à 8849 mètres
11 July 2024 Latest news, Mountaineering, Himalayas, Fourteen 8000ers
Everest 2024 season in review
Everest, the roof of the world at 8849 meters, remains the dream of many a mountaineer, despite the criticism of its organization, which increases every year. The last few seasons have seen some serious changes in the number and value of climbers visiting the mountain. In this article, we look back at the recently concluded Spring 2024 season, during which, for the first time since 2019, the Tibetan North Face was also accessible. Weather windows, summit push, number of permits and percentage of summiters on the Nepalese and Tibetan sides, highlights... Everything worth remembering about this 2024 Everest mountaineering season.
Hermann Buhl au sommet du Nanga Parbat
23 August 2021 Himalayas, Mountaineering, Fourteen 8000ers
1953 : Hermann Buhl solo on Nanga Parbat without oxygen
The Second World War temporarily postponed the conquest of the world's ninth highest peak, Nanga Parbat. At 8,126 meters, it continues to resist the efforts of Himalayan climbers. After the tragedies of 1934 and 1937, it wasn't until 1953 that Germany, licking its wounds, considered taking up the challenge again. This is the second part of our saga of Nanga Parbat, ‘the killer mountain’.
Expédition au Pic Lenine
12 August 2021 Live expeditions
Ascent of Peak Lenin to 7134 metres in summer 2021
Six participants, guided by Serge Bazin and assisted by a local mountain guide, completed this beautiful expedition by following the normal route, physically demanding in the summit attempt.
Trek du Nanga Parbat © Laurent Boiveau
20 July 2021 Himalayas, Mountaineering, Fourteen 8000ers
The Nanga Parbat curse (8,126 m)
Nanga Parbat, ‘the killer mountain’. Between Mummery's first attempt in 1895 and Hermann Buhl's first ascent in 1953, 30 people lost their lives on its slopes. A sad record. Unlike most of the 8,000, there is no obvious route to the summit. We take you back to those tragic moments in the history of Himalayan climbing.
L'expédition au Karakoram de 1954
21 June 2021 Himalayas, Mountaineering, Fourteen 8000ers
K2 : the wild mountain
Ever since the first climbers set eyes on the towering summit of K2, the mountain has fascinated. Firstly by its shape, an almost perfect pyramid, two Matterhorns piled one on top of the other. Then for its difficulties: verticality reigns supreme. Only the best can aspire to its ascent. Here's a selection of some of the bravest climbs.
Le plateau supérieur du Broad Peak. Au centre, le Windy Gap, à droite le sommet © Fritz Wintersteller
25 May 2021 Himalayas, Mountaineering, Fourteen 8000ers
1957: the Austrians pioneer the alpine style on Broad Peak (8,047 m)
By the end of 1956, ten of the fourteen 8,000+ summits had been climbed by himalayists. Three had succumbed to the brilliance of Austrian mountaineers. Forerunners of the alpine-style expeditions to come, four Austrian mountaineers, including Hermann Buhl, achieved a feat that went almost unnoticed at the time. Without a base camp, without high-altitude Sherpas, without oxygen, they offered themselves a fine piece of bravery. A look back at this little-known expedition.
Vallée du Khumbu © David Ducoin
03 May 2021 Himalayas, Mountaineering, Testimonials, Fourteen 8000ers, Seven Summits
Ascent of Everest South Face (Nepal): the expedition's team of Sherpas
In the spring of 2021, Expeditions Unlimited is organising an ascent of Mount Everest (8,848 m) via the South Face, on the Nepal side. François Trouillet, one of the participants, gives us a poignant first-hand account of the main stages of this expedition. In this post, François describes the team of Sherpas accompanying us on this expedition.
Camp de base de l'Everest (5 365 m) versant népalais © François Trouillet
02 May 2021 Himalayas, Mountaineering, Testimonials, Fourteen 8000ers, Seven Summits
Climbing Everest South Face (Nepal): life at base camp
In the spring of 2021, Expeditions Unlimited is organising an ascent of Mount Everest (8,848 m) via the South Face, on the Nepal side. François Trouillet, one of the participants, gives us a poignant first-hand account of the main stages of this expedition. In this article, François describes life at the Everest base camp, with all the teams and the Covid atmosphere of 2021.