Sommet de l'Aconcagua
19 September 2024 Mountaineering, Rest of the World, Seven Summits
Aconcagua: 4 routes to the highest peak in the Americas
Four routes for climbing Aconcagua, South America's highest peak at 6962 meters. The standard north-west route, via the east ridge known for the Polish traverse, via the Polish Glacier and the south face.
Ascension du Broad Peak
22 August 2024 Himalayas, Mountaineering, Fourteen 8000ers
Ascent of Broad Peak at 8047 meters in Pakistan
In the summer of 2024, Expeditions Unlimited had the opportunity to accompany Jean-François Descat and Julien Delteil, two experienced mountaineers, on their first expedition to very high altitude: the ascent of Broad Peak at 8047 meters in Pakistan.
Sommet de l'Everest à 8849 mètres
11 July 2024 Latest news, Mountaineering, Himalayas, Fourteen 8000ers
Everest 2024 season in review
Everest, the roof of the world at 8849 meters, remains the dream of many a mountaineer, despite the criticism of its organization, which increases every year. The last few seasons have seen some serious changes in the number and value of climbers visiting the mountain. In this article, we look back at the recently concluded Spring 2024 season, during which, for the first time since 2019, the Tibetan North Face was also accessible. Weather windows, summit push, number of permits and percentage of summiters on the Nepalese and Tibetan sides, highlights... Everything worth remembering about this 2024 Everest mountaineering season.
Le Groenland en snowkite © Michael Charavin
07 December 2021 Polar regions, Snowkiting
Snowkiting: from learning to great expeditions with Michaël Charavin
For several years, thanks to our great friend, guide and explorer, Dixie Dansercoer, who tragically passed away in Greenland in June 2021, we have been developing a rare expertise in expedition snowkiting, whether crossing Greenland, Antarctica or Alaska. Thanks to him, we've been able to get close to the best polar kiters in the world, and it's in this spirit that we're now expanding our range of programs, with four new stays or mini-expeditions guided by French snowkiter Michaël Charavin.
Reinhold Messner lors de l'expédition au Nanga Parbat
17 November 2021 Mountaineering, Fourteen 8000ers
Reinhold Messner on Nanga Parbat: the seminal ascent of the "Fourteen Eight Thousand".
We reported on the German tragedies of 1934 and 1937 on Nanga Parbat, followed by Hermann Buhl's astonishing victory in 1953 on the north face of Rakhiot. Under the leadership of the indomitable Dr Karl Maria Herrligkoffer, the western slopes of Diamir and finally the southern slopes of Rupal gave way over the years. But the 'killer mountain' was not finished yet.
Envisager un 8 000 - Entretien avec Bernard Muller
30 October 2021 Mountaineering, Web conferences
REPLAY | Climbing an 8,000 - Interview with Bernard Muller
In this interview, Bernard Muller, one of France's most renowned expedition leaders at very high altitude, talks about our expedition to Everest, from which he has just returned, other 8,000 meters peaks and their characteristics, the reasons why some climbers want to get close to the ‘death zone’, the key factors in the success of such summits, their preparation, general and local organisation, oxygen...
Expédition au sommet du Dhaulagiri
19 October 2021 Mountaineering, Fourteen 8000ers
Dhaulagiri (8,167 m), victory within Pilatus' reach
May 1960. Ten years, almost to the day, after the first reconnaissance at the foot of the ‘White Mountain’, Dhaulagiri (8,167 m) was about to be climbed. The seventh highest peak on the planet, it is the last to resist its many contenders. Or to be more precise, the last summit accessible to the Western world.
Au sommet du Manaslu
11 October 2021 Mountaineering, Testimonials, Fourteen 8000ers
Logbook: climbing Manaslu (8,163 m)
At the beginning of September, Expeditions Unlimited completed its first expedition to Manaslu, the eighth highest peak on the planet at 8,163 meters. A team of nine participants, including French mountain guide Clément Flouret, undertook the ascent with the support of a Nepalese team of around fifteen people.
Sur l'expédition au Manaslu
04 October 2021 Live expeditions
Ascent of Manaslu in Népal in automn 2021
Our first expedition to Manaslu, the eighth highest peak on the planet at 8,163 metres. An exciting and particularly human adventure, in which Eric Bonnem took part.
Ascension de l'Everest © François Trouillet
21 September 2021 Himalayas, Mountaineering, Testimonials, Fourteen 8000ers, Seven Summits
Logbook: climbing Everest 2021
At a time when Nepal has just lifted its quarantine for vaccinated people, we take a look back at our ascent of Everest last spring: a five-strong Franco-Swiss team attempted to climb the roof of the world at 8,848 metres via its southern Nepalese side during an expedition led by Bernard Muller.
Sur le glacier Fedchenko
15 September 2021 Live expeditions
Glacier Fedchenko with Matthieu Tordeur in autumn 2021
Explored only in 1928, the Fedchenko Glacier is the longest glacier in the world, outside the polar zones, at 77 km long. Matthieu Tordeur, Cédric Gras and Christophe Raylat venture there to bear witness.