Sommet de l'Aconcagua
19 September 2024 Mountaineering, Rest of the World, Seven Summits
Aconcagua: 4 routes to the highest peak in the Americas
Four routes for climbing Aconcagua, South America's highest peak at 6962 meters. The standard north-west route, via the east ridge known for the Polish traverse, via the Polish Glacier and the south face.
Ascension du Broad Peak
22 August 2024 Himalayas, Mountaineering, Fourteen 8000ers
Ascent of Broad Peak at 8047 meters in Pakistan
In the summer of 2024, Expeditions Unlimited had the opportunity to accompany Jean-François Descat and Julien Delteil, two experienced mountaineers, on their first expedition to very high altitude: the ascent of Broad Peak at 8047 meters in Pakistan.
Sommet de l'Everest à 8849 mètres
11 July 2024 Latest news, Mountaineering, Himalayas, Fourteen 8000ers
Everest 2024 season in review
Everest, the roof of the world at 8849 meters, remains the dream of many a mountaineer, despite the criticism of its organization, which increases every year. The last few seasons have seen some serious changes in the number and value of climbers visiting the mountain. In this article, we look back at the recently concluded Spring 2024 season, during which, for the first time since 2019, the Tibetan North Face was also accessible. Weather windows, summit push, number of permits and percentage of summiters on the Nepalese and Tibetan sides, highlights... Everything worth remembering about this 2024 Everest mountaineering season.
Traversée de l'icefall pendant l'ascension de l'Everest
02 May 2021 Himalayas, Mountaineering, Testimonials, Fourteen 8000ers, Seven Summits
Climbing Everest South Face (Nepal): Icefall traverse
In the spring of 2021, Expeditions Unlimited is organising an ascent of Mount Everest (8,848 m) via the South Face, on the Nepal side. François Trouillet, one of the participants, gives us a poignant first-hand account of the main stages of this expedition. In this post, François recounts his emotional discovery of the icefall on the Khumbu glacier between the base camp and camp 1: the famous Icefall.
L'Everest, toit du monde
29 April 2021 Himalayas, Mountaineering, Fourteen 8000ers, Seven Summits
The conquest of Everest: 50 years to reach the roof of the world - Part 1
June 11, 1938. Eric Shipton, Bill Tillman and Peter Lloyd descend from Camp VI to an altitude of 8,300 meters. The seventh attempt to climb Everest, via the North Face, fails again. Expeditions Unlimited looks back on this fantastic adventure, which we will bring you in spring 2021.
Ascension du pic Lénine © Serge Bazin
26 April 2021 Mountaineering, Snow Leopard
Peak Lenin (7,134 m): at the heart of mountaineering history
Peak Lenin, 7,134 meters. THE seven-thousand-metre peak to climb if you want to get to grips with high altitude. Yes, but... After Aconcagua and its 6,962 meters, which is 38 meters short of entering the big league, and whose summit is not as easily conquered as you might think, you have to set off on the slopes of Peak Lenin to hope to break the symbolic seven-thousand-meter barrier.
Jérôme Brisebourg, objectif 3 pôles : Everest, pôle Nord et pôle Sud
08 April 2021 Web conferences
REPLAY | Jérôme Brisebourg, objective 3 poles: Everest, North Pole and South Pole
Jérôme Brisebourg is one of the hundred or so sports adventurers and explorers in history to have completed the Explorers' Grand Slam on 13 January 2020 at the South Pole, i.e. climbing the highest peak on each continent (Seven Summits) and reaching the North and South Poles on expedition. Jérôme looks back at the expeditions he has attempted and often successfully completed, in both high mountain and polar environments.
Camp de base du Makalu © Serge Bazin
06 April 2021 Himalayas, Mountaineering, Fourteen 8000ers
Makalu (8,485 m): a happy page in the history of the Himalayas
‘The ascent of Makalu, a happy page in the history of the Himalayas’. It was with this pithy phrase that Jean Franco, leader of the French expedition to Makalu in the spring of 1955, summed up their magnificent victory on the fifth highest peak on the planet. We'd like to retrace this perfect adventure for you... And we take this opportunity to introduce you to our next ascent of Makalu in April 2022, guided by Serge Bazin.
Les faces ouest des Gasherbrum IV, V, VI et VII. Le Gasherbrum II est à peine visible derrière l’arête sud du Gasherbrum IV. Le Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) est caché derrière le Gasherbrum V.
01 March 2021 Himalayas, Mountaineering, Fourteen 8000ers
Gasherbrum: the massif with six summits
Gasherbrum massif. Six towering peaks, two of them over 8,000 meters: G II (8,035 m) and G I (8,068 m). In 1934, the international expedition led by Günter Dyhrenfurth produced the first fictional feature film to be shot in this grandiose setting. This was followed by the heavy expedition led by the Frenchman Henri de Ségogne (660 porters, 11 tonnes of equipment) in 1936.
Le Karakoram
21 December 2020 Himalayas, Mountaineering, Fourteen 8000ers
Exploring the Karakoram (8,611 m)
On 10 September 1856, Lieutenant-Colonel Thomas George Montgomerie (aged 26) climbed the glacial slopes of Haramukh (5,191 m), a well-defined peak 40 kilometers as the crow flies from Srinagar in Indian Kashmir. A look back at the careers of the most emblematic early explorers and mountaineers who set out to discover the glaciers and peaks of the Karakoram.
Marion Chaygneaud-Dupuy, une Française au Tibet et à l'Everest​
25 November 2020 Web conferences
REPLAY | Marion Chaygneaud-Dupuy, a Frenchwoman in Tibet and on Everest
A Frenchwoman who has lived in the Himalayas for over 20 years, Marion Chaygneaud-Dupuy has reached the summit of Everest three times via the Tibetan side and has climbed many peaks over 6,000 meters in central Tibet, some of which are still untouched. She is one of the world's leading experts on sustainable development at very high altitude, and has launched a major project to 'clean up' Everest via the northern route.
Vue sur le Shishapangma
16 November 2020 Himalayas, Mountaineering, Fourteen 8000ers
Shishapangma, the last 8,000: usurped victory
2nd May 1964. The race for the fourteen "8,000s" officially came to an end. Fourteen short years separate the victory of Herzog and Lachenal on Annapurna I (3 June 1950) and that of the Chinese team led by Xǔ Jìng. But one ambiguity remains... A look back at the first ascent of the smallest but most controversial of the 8,000 meters.