Our five Snow Leopard climbs in Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan
Expeditions Unlimited is one of the few operators in the world to take on the Snow Leopard Challenge, which involves climbing the five highest peaks in the former Soviet Union, all over 7000 meters and all between Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan. In particular, these include the climb of Lenin Peak or Ibn Sina Peak (7134 m) on the Tajikistan/Kyrgyzstan border, Korjenevskoï Peak or Ozodi Peak (7105 m) in Tajikistan, Khan Tengri Peak (7010 m) on the Kyrgyzstan/Kazakhstan border, Communism Peak or Ismail Somoni Peak (7495 m) in Tajikistan, and Pobeda Peak or Victory Peak or Jengish Chokosu Peak (7439 m) in Kyrgyzstan. Mountain guide Serge Bazin is expedition leader on each of these climbs. In 2011, Serge Hardy was the fifth and last Frenchman to succeed in this challenge. Fewer than a hundred climbers have achieved this feat worldwide, most of them originating from the great mountaineering culture of Eastern Europe.
While we climb Peak Lenin almost every summer, we climbed Peak Korjenevskaya in 2023 and plan a new climb every odd-numbered year. The next three climbs are massive, either technically difficult, with Khan Tengri via the North Ridge, chosen because it is less exposed to objective hazards, or with Communism Peak and its kolossal plateau at 7000 meters, in terms of commitment at very high altitude, and finally, with the famous Victory Peak or Pobeda, in terms of objective risks. We guide you to complete the Snow Leopard Challenge. We recommend our web conference on the Snow Leopard Challenge in French with English subtitles.
Very good choice of agency for a return to expeditions under the best conditions. Top safety with our guide Serge, despite a challenging mountain. Fou...
A great mountain experience in an isolated massif with very few people (just us on the mountain on the day of the summit push). The base camp was grea...
Very nice expedition, on a mountain in difficult conditions (not much snow, very icy). The guide, Serge, adapted well to lead us to the summit in thes...
There's no such thing as an “easy” 7000, and no climb is possible without an excellent guide. In a setting that is always spectacular, we benefited fr...
A magnificent expedition in incredible landscapes. Perfect organization and great group cohesion. Serge, our guide, was professional, made our climb a...
Second adventure for me, this time on Peak Lenin in Kyrgyzstan. Great organisation with Expedition Unlimited once again! Can't wait for the next one! ...
Excellent organization, a guide who knows what to do for a preparation that maximizes the chances of success safely. I was with a superb team who got ...
Your first 7000er, technically accessible, where we plan more days of acclimatization. The weather is often complicated, so we plan to climb in the first half of August, which is generally more favorable.
The Ismoil Somoni Peak (former Communism Peak), marks the highest point of the former USSR at 7495 meters. The imposing pyramid of rock and summit ice rests on a vast quadrilateral whose four faces…
Duration:35 days
Physical difficulty:Difficult
Expedition:Exclusive
Technical difficulty:Climbing - Little Difficult (PD)
The ascent of Korjenevskaya or Korzhenevskoï Peak (known as Ozodi Peak since 2020) is slightly more difficult than that of Lenin Peak. But it takes place in an imposing setting, in the heart of the…
At "just" 7010 metres, Khan Tengri could be the easiest of the Snow Leopard Challenge. But its modest altitude is more than made up for by the sheer number of difficulties involved in its ascent. The…
Duration:28 days
Physical difficulty:Difficult
Expedition:Exclusive
Technical difficulty:Climbing - Little Difficult (PD)
It was not until 1943 that Pobeda Peak was identified as the highest peak in the Tien Shan or Celestial Mountains. For a long time, its close neighbour, Khan Tengri, seemed to be in first place…
Duration:28 days
Physical difficulty:Difficult
Expedition:Exclusive
Technical difficulty:Climbing - Little Difficult (PD)