The second most accessible summit in the Snow Leopard challenge
Highlights
- A rare summit with little objective risk
- Second summit in order of increasing difficulty for the Snow Leopard Challenge
- Experienced French mountain guide
- Several contingency days to cope with the vagaries of the weather
- H 24 personalized weather forecast services and medical hotline
- Preparation course, live coverage of the expedition
The ascent of Korjenevskaya or Korzhenevskoï Peak (known as Ozodi Peak since 2020) is slightly more difficult than that of Lenin Peak. But it takes place in an imposing setting, in the heart of the Pamir mountains, in the Academy of Sciences range. Located a short distance from Ismoil Somoni Peak (formerly Communism Peak), the highest peak in the former USSR at 7495 meters, Korzhenevskoï is a remarkable objective. Before embarking on its slopes, we climbed Vorobiova Peak (5,691 m), a lookout point directly opposite Ismoil Somoni Peak. A magnificent expedition, a prelude to other fine adventures, guided by Serge Bazin, with whom we began a five-year cycle around the Snow Leopard challenge, the ascent of the five highest peaks in the former Soviet Union, all located between Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan.
Overview
BIRTH OF THE "SNOW LEOPARD"
In the 1960s, the USSR was at the height of its glory. But the borders were hermetic and the mountaineers of the Soviet Union expressed their (immense) talent on the many summits that rose from one end of the former Empire of the Tsars to the other. The Himalayas are off-limits to them. But their playground was gigantic: the Caucasus, Pamir-Alay, Fansky (Fann) Mountains, Great Pamir, Tien Shan, Kamtchatka... On 12 October 1967, to encourage and reward the best in the race to the top, the Bureau of the Central Council of Sports Societies and Organisations of the USSR decided to award a prize to those who managed to climb the five highest Soviet summits:
- Khan Tengri Peak – 7010 meters on the Kyrgyzstan-Kazakhstan border
- Peak Korjenevskaya – 7105 meters in Tajikistan
- Lenin Peak – 7134 meters on the Tajikistan-Kyrgyzstan border
- Victory Peak – 7439 meters in Kyrgyzstan
- Ismoil Somoni Peak – 7495 meters in Tajikistan
The reward: to become a "Snow Leopard", the almost mythical animal that haunts the mountains of Central Asia. Many will be lining up to win the prestigious Snow Leopard medal. But almost exclusively climbers from beyond the Iron Curtain, from the Soviet Union. It was not until 1985 that the first two Westerners shared this immense privilege. Two Americans, followed by a Japanese climber in 1989. Finally, in 1997, a French couple, Brigitte and Pierre Meloni, won the prestigious medal. They were the third couple to win a medal. In 2011, Serge Hardy will be the fifth and last Frenchman to win the title. Who will be next?
Five legendary peaks, all in the former USSR
The five peaks of the Snow Leopard Challenge, in ascending order of difficulty:
- Ibn Sina Peak (formerly Lenin Peak) – 7134 meters on the Tajikistan-Kyrgyzstan border
- Ozodi Peak (formerly Korjenevskaya) – 7105 meters in Tajikistan
- Ismoil Somoni Peak (former Communism Peak) – 7495 meters in Tajikistan
- Khan Tengri Peak – 7010 meters on the Kyrgyzstan-Kazakhstan border (the geological altitude is 6995 m, but due to its thick shell of ice at the summit, the official altitude is 7010 m)
- Jengish Chokosu Peak (formerly Victory Peak, formerly Pobeda Peak) – 7439 meters in Kyrgyzstan
So it is Korjenevskaya (Korzhenevskoï) that we will be climbing on this expedition. The route is divided into four distinct sections. A long ascent in moraine terrain and steep dirt slopes to reach Camp 1 at 5100 meters. Then a progression on easy snow slopes leads to Camp 2 at 5300 meters. A steeper section of snow and ice leads to a pass at 6100 meters. Finally, a long snow ridge leads first to Camp 3 at 6300 meters, and then to the summit.
For acclimatization, we make the easy ascent of Vorobia Peak (5691 meters) with a high camp at around 5300 meters. The total duration of the expedition includes several rest days and reserve days to will be able to cope with the frequent climatic hazards in this part of the world.
Expeditions Unlimited takes on the Snow Leopard challenge with Serge Bazin
Well-known to French-speaking mountaineers, Serge Bazin is a mountain guide (see his biography below). He has been guiding participants on high-altitude summits for many years. We have built up a strong relationship with him. He was our advisor on our first expedition to Manaslu (8163 m), and guided our last expedition to Makalu (8481 m).
He regularly and successfully guided our participants to Lenin Peak at 7134 meters and guided them to the top of the Ozodi Peak (formerly Korzhenevskoï ) in 2023 .
We are currently forming a close-knit group on these five climbs, the next three of which are massive. Either technically difficult, with the Khan Tengri via the north ridge, chosen because it is less exposed to objective dangers, or in terms of commitment at very high altitude, with the Ismoil Somoni Peak and its colossal plateau at 7000 meters and finally, in terms of objective risks, with the famous Victory Peak or Pobeda..
Click here to see the animated itinerary for the ascent of the Korjenevskaya Peak to 7105 meters.
Itinerary
Day 0
EXPEDITION SUMMARY PROGRAMME
- Days 1 & 2: Arrival in Dushanbe
- Day 3: Road transfer to Jirgital
- Day 4: Helicopter flight from Jirgital to base camp (4360 m)
- Days 5 & 6: Rest days and preparation for the ascent of Vorobia
- Day 7: Ascent to Camp 1 on Vorobia (4510 m)
- Day 8: Climb to Vorobia Camp 2 (5200 m)
- Day 9: Ascent of Vorobia (5690 m) and descent to base camp
- Days 10 to 12: Rest days and preparation for the ascent of Chetyrech (6270 m) or Narodnii Komissariat (5475 m)
- Day 13: Ascent to Camp 1
- Day 14: Climb to Camp 2
- Day 15: Summit and return to base camp
- Days 16 to 18: Rest days and preparation for the first rotation to Korzhenevskoï
- Day 19: Ascent to Camp 1 on the Korzhenevskoï (5100 m)
- Day 20: Climb to Camp 2 on the Korzhenevskoï (5300 m)
- Day 21: Climb to Korzhenevskoï Camp 3 (5800 m)
- Day 22: Return to base camp
- Days 23 & 24: Rest days and preparation for the ascent of Korzhenevskoï
- Day 25: Climb to Camp 2 (5300 m)
- Day 26: Climb to Camp 3 (5800 m)
- Day 27: Climb to Camp 4 (6300 m)
- Day 28: Ascent of Korzhenevskoï Peak (7105 m) and return to Camp 4 (6300 m)
- Day 29: Descent to base camp
- Days 30 & 31: Reserve days
- Day 32: Flight from base camp to Dushanbe
- Day 33: Road transfer from Jirgital
- Day 34 & 35: Return flight to Europe
EXPEDITION DETAILED PROGRAMME
Days 1 & 2: Paris — Dushanbe
Day 1
Departure from Paris for Dushanbe, the capital of Tajikistan. Arrival is usually during the night of day 1 to day 2. Welcome by our local team, then transfer to the hotel. In the afternoon, discovery of the Tajik capital.
Day 3: Dushanbe — Jirgital
Day 3
We take the road north-east to approach the Pamir range. We need to reach the village of Jirgital, where the helicopter base serving the main base camps is located.
Day 4: Jirgital — Moskvina Polyana international base camp
Day 4
A magnificent flight in the imposing MI 8 helicopter that takes us to Moskvina Polyana, where the comfortable international base camp (4360 m) is located. The camp lies at the confluence of the Walter Glacier, which flows down the north face of the Communism Peak (now Ismoil Somoni Peak), and the Moskvina Glacier, which descends from the Korzhenevskoï.
Days 5 & 6: Rest days
Day 5
Quiet days at base camp, to give our bodies time to acclimatise. We will be able to take advantage of this time to get to know the other climbers of all nationalities present at the base camp. The view of the surrounding mountains is majestic, with Ismoil Somoni Peak (former Communism Peak) in particular, the highest point in the former USSR.
Day 7: Climb to Camp 1 on Vorobiova Peak
Day 7
First day testing our mettle at altitude. The ascent of Vorobiova is not particularly difficult. It is the summit that overlooks the base camp. Halfway between Korzhenevskoï and Communism Peak (now Ismoil Somoni Peak), it is an exceptional viewpoint. The route from the base camp is the same as the route to the advanced base camp on Communism Peak. The camp is located at an altitude of around 5300 meters, making it easier to climb the following day.
Day 8: Climb to Camp 2 on Vorobiova Peak
Day 8
We continue our gradual ascent to a high-altitude camp at 5200 meters, to acclimatize properly.
Day 9: Ascent of Vorobiova (5691 m) — Descent to Base Camp
Day 9
The last part of the ascent takes place on 30° snow slopes. No difficulties other than the altitude. Return to base camp. From the high camp, we follow the face and then the south-east ridge to the summit. Two sub-peaks delay the final ascent, which at this altitude can have a negative effect on one's spirits.
A long descent back to base camp.
Days 10 to 12: Rest days and preparation for the ascent of Chetyrekh (6270 m) or Narodnii Komissariat (5475 m)
Day 10
Essential days to recuperate, complete our acclimatization and prepare for our next acclimatization summit.
Depending on a number of factors, including snow conditions, we can either start climbing Korzhenevskoï, or continue our acclimatization on a more technical summit than the previous one. Chetyrekh is a good contender at 6270 meters, and this 6000-meter peak, opposite Ismoil Somoni Peak (former Communism Peak), has fairly steep slopes and requires 2 altitude camps.
This summit is well-suited to July, but in August it risks being too icy and taking up too much of our energy for its ascent, which is not the objective, as we must not lose too much strength for the ascent that follows, that of Korzhenevskoï... Alternatively, a more gradual ascent could be made of a more feasible 5000-meter peak with an altitude camp, Narodnii Komissariat at 5475 meters. We will decide on the spot.
Day 13: Climb to camp 1
Day 13
- On the Chetyrekh, access to Camp 1 is quite long from our base camp, crossing a fairly crevassed glacier. We then set up Camp 1 on a moraine at the foot of the mountain.
Number of trek hours: approx. 6 h
Elevation: + 800 m
Final altitude: approx. 5100 m
- If this is the Narodnii Komissariat, we follow a moraine across several glaciers to the foot of Narodnii. Depending on the state of the scree to be climbed and the availability of water or snow, we set up Camp 1 as close as possible to the summit (between 4600 m and 4900 m).
Number of trek hours: approx. 6 h
Elevation: + 500 m
Final altitude: between 4600 m and 4900 m
Day 14: Climb to Camp 2
Day 14
- As far as Chetyrekh is concerned, the day starts off with some nice snow/ice slopes that gradually straighten out, and we have to look for a flat to improve on, probably around the altitude of 5700 meters, to set up our Camp 2.
Number of trek hours: approx. 4/5 h
Elevation: + 600 m
Final altitude: approx. 5700 m
- If this is the Narodnii Komissariat, we have to climb up stony slopes to reach a magnificent, gentle ridge that takes us to our summit. From the summit we have the Korzhenevskoï right in front of us and, a little further back, the famous Ismoil Somoni Peak (Communism Peak).
Number of trek hours: approx. 4 h ascent and 4/5 h return to the base camp.
Elevations: + 500 m / - 800 m
Final altitude: approx. 4360 m
Day 15: Summit and back to base camp
Day 15
- As far as Chetyrekh is concerned, the end of the ascent takes place on 45/55° snow slopes. We will probably have to build ice belays using Abalakov or snow stakes to enable us to abseil down the steepest slopes.
Number of trek hours: approx. 10/12 h
Elevation: + 570 m / - 1 950 m
Final altitude: around 4360 m
- If we climbed the Narodnii Komissariat yesterday, then today is an extra day of rest.
Days 16 to 18: Rest days and preparation for the first rotation at Korzhenevskoï
Day 16
Essential days to recover, complete our acclimatization and prepare for our first rotation at Korzhenevskoï.
Day 19: Climb to Korzhenevskoï Camp 1
Day 19
From base camp, we cross the Moskvina Glacier to climb the opposite moraine. The route bends to the west, and we begin a steep ascent over rocky terrain to reach a first plateau at around 4600 meters. A short descent (100 meters) is followed by another tough climb to the top of a hump at 4800 meters. The route then heads due north again for a long traverse. A few fixed ropes placed at the most awkward points help the progression. We cross under the front moraine of the Korzhenevskoï Glacier (exposed to rockfalls). Another climb along the glacier. At around 4900 meters, a rocky bar can be crossed using a fixed rope (200 meters). This leads to a series of flats close to the glacier, where Camp 1 is set up. Crampons are not required for this first stage.
Day 20: Climb to Camp 2
Day 20
To complete our acclimatization, we climb up to Camp 2 to drop off our gear. From Camp 1, at 5100 meters, we continue to progress over the moraines. At around 5300 meters, we set foot on the glacier to set up Camp 2.
Day 21: Climb to Camp 3
Day 21
We are now getting to the heart of the matter. The glacier straightens out, slopes at 35-40°. A first flat spot at around 5600 meters gives us a chance to catch our breath. We are at the foot of the steepest part of the route. Slopes at 40-45° (fixed ropes) lead to Camp 2 (5800 m), located on a platform at the foot of the south-west face, protected from rockfalls by the rock face that forms the summit of the mountain. About ten tents can be set up here.
Day 22: Back to Base Camp
Day 22
It is time to set off downhill to base camp.
Days 23 & 24: Rest days
Day 23
After the previous day's long descent, we're back at base camp to regain our strength before setting off for the summit.
Days 25 to 28: Ascent of Khorzhenevskoï
Day 25
We climb steadily upwards, spending the night at Camp 1, Camp 2, Camp 3 and Camp 4. The final ascent should take place on D23, with a possible second attempt on D24.
From Camp 4 to the summit:
From Camp 4, we climb up obvious slopes to 6500 meters. We follow the tapered and sometimes steep ridge. Three successive bumps to overcome (40° maximum). At around 6800 meters, we have to bypass two wide crevasses to reach the rocks below the summit. A final effort, and we are on the summit hump where several climbers can stand at the same time. If the weather cooperates, the view is breathtaking, especially of the Ismoil Somoni Peak, which should be our next objective.
Descent to Camp 3 or Camp 2 if possible.
Day 29: Descent to Base Camp
Day 29
Return from Camp 3 or Camp 2 to base camp.
Days 30 &31: Contingency days
Day 30
Days in reserve to cover any contingencies.
Day 32: Moskvina Polyana — Jirgital
Day 32
Direct helicopter flight back to Dushanbe.A few hours free for final shopping.
Day 33: Road transfer Jirgital to Dushanbe
Day 33
We take our vehicle to Dushanbe.
Days 34 & 35: Duschanbe — Paris
Day 34
Depending on your flight schedule, transfer to the airport and flight to Paris.
END OF EXPEDITION
For reasons that cannot be foreseen at this stage, such as unpredictable weather, the physical fitness or lack of fitness of participants or other circumstancess (customs formalities, road conditions, traffic, landslides, force majeure, etc.), your expedition leader may have to adapt the program, if necessary, to ensure the smooth running of your trip. He remains the sole judge and the one who guarantees your safety. Activity times are given as an indication and may vary from one participant to another.
The itinerary for all our expedition programs, or the ascent program for our high-mountain expeditions, are given here as a guide only. They are flexible enough to adapt to weather conditions with a few contingency days. In any case, you should follow the recommendations of your guide, who may suggest that you cancel your expedition due to weather, safety or physical conditions.
It is important to remember that this is a truly unsupported expedition, and that anything can happen. Expeditions Unlimited, your expedition leader, your guide or our local teams can in no way be held responsible.
Any costs incurred as a result of a change in the expedition schedule (extra nights' accommodation, extra flights) will be borne by the participants and not by the organizers. "Contingency days" refer to the expedition in the strict sense of the term (base camp/base camp in the mountains, departure point/exit point on a traverse, etc.).
Any early return of the expedition or of certain members only (early success, abandonment, etc.), generating costs for accommodation, meals, changes to air tickets or other activities not provided for in this program, will be charged in full to the participants.
Trip notes
Guiding
French mountain guide Serge Bazin (see description above). If, for reasons beyond our control, Serge is unable to lead the group, he will be replaced by another experienced French mountain guide. The services would not be modified, the conditions of the trip would be identical and this change would not constitute a valid reason for cancellation.
For an additional charge (see above), you can hire porters to lighten the load at altitude, but finding one is another matter...
For unpredictable reasons at this stage, like adverse weather conditions, insufficient physical condition of participants, insufficient competencies of participants related to the intended activities, your guide may decide to adjust the intended program and/or activities. At all times, his decision will be final on all matters likely to affect the safety and well-being of the trip.
Difficulty level
Level rated: difficult
This program is aimed at participants in good physical shape, with a significant sport practice, endurance in particular, holding a strong mental to face difficulties that are unforeseen by nature.
Korzhenevskoï Peak is rated as "difficult" because of the conditions you will be facing: very high altitude, very low temperatures, sometimes bad weather and strong winds.
This is a rough expedition you are about to embark on. To be as self-sufficient as possible, you need to have significant mountaineering experience and be actively involved in hiking, trekking or mountaineering. You need to be able to progress in a roped party, either on your own or roped up with a guide, and you need to know how to handle ropes.
For a relatively long period of time, the body will be subjected to considerable physical effort in a difficult environment, with the added handicap of high altitude. Rigorous training is obviously necessary, focusing on developing endurance and resistance: running, cycling, swimming, ski touring and, of course, mountaineering. This training needs to be regular and begins at least 6 to 8 months before the start of the expedition.
Team spirit is also important. Each participant is responsible for applying safety rules, looking after his or her own equipment and maintenance, setting up the camp and preparing meals. As always in this type of project, the key to success is teamwork and team spirit.
During the expedition, we have to carry our equipment to altitude. For those participants who do not wish to carry less, it is possible to book porters on site, subject to availability. This cost is not included in our package.
Indicative rate, to be paid on site: 12 US$ / kilo between base camp and Camp 1 – 14 US$ / kilo between Camp 1 and Camp 3 – 22 US$ / kilo between Camp 3 and Camp 4
Having said that, the portering culture in this part of the world is very different from that in the Himalayas, for example, and we cannot book these porters in advance. Also, carrying is not guaranteed.
Participation in the preparation course with your expedition leader, whose date will be specified later, is highly recommended. In addition, mountaineering preparation courses at our School of Adventure can be a serious asset, both to gain confidence and autonomy.
To register for this expedition, you will be asked to provide an expedition (mountain climb list)/trek/athlete CV. A medical certificate stating that you are not at risk of climbing at high altitude is also required.
You benefit, free of charge and for the duration of your expedition, from membership in the 24/7 high altitude medical service set up with our partner Ifremmont, of which we are partners. See below.
Technical difficulty
Korzhenevskoï is never excessively steep, but it does have some nice, fairly steady snow and ice slopes. The steepest passages can be equipped with fixed ropes, as teams see fit, which need to be monitored and changed regularly.
The final ridge can be likened to the final ridge of Mont Blanc, between 6300 and 7000 meters. Altitude and weather conditions in general are the main obstacles. It is rare to have a period of good weather lasting more than five consecutive days, as is the case in the Himalayas. So you need to be prepared to make progress even in poor weather conditions.
Meeting point
Scheduled flights to and from Dushanbe from Paris and the provinces with Turkish Airlines.
Given the diverse origins of the participants on this trip, international outward and return flights are not included in this package. In most cases, we book flights on your behalf to ensure that the whole group arrives at the destination at the same time. We do not charge any fees for these air bookings. Please do not hesitate to contact us. If you book your own tickets, we will advise you on the ideal flight schedule to enable all participants to arrive within a reduced time frame. At the very least, you need tickets that can be modified.
Accommodations
Hotels in Dushanbe: 3-star local standard in a double room with breakfast. Single rooms are available at extra cost.
The base camp is located in a green area, where the temperature remains mild. We are accommodated in a two-person tent, with wooden supports to isolate you from the ground and a mattress. Electricity is provided at the base camp, as are hot showers. Wifi is available, but at a charge.
A large heated mess tent houses the expeditions of the different nationalities that share the base camp.
From Camp 1 onwards, you will be in a two-person expedition tent, with three people in the last camp.
All the camps have a storage tent where you can leave any equipment or belongings you are not taking with you.
Meals
At Duhanbe, only breakfast is included. Depending on the flight plan, you should therefore plan to pay for your meals on the spot, which gives you a little freedom to choose your food.
At base camp, meals are prepared by our local team using local produce and served in the mess tent.
For the higher camps, you will be able to compose your own menus in the form of freeze-dried rations. These rations contain coffee and tea, cereals, mashed potatoes, soup, broths, Chinese noodles, freeze-dried dishes, snacks, etc. Remember to bring your favourite energy bars, as the choice is not exceptional in Tajikistan!
HYDRATION
Take along tablets (such as Hydroclonazone, Micropur or others) to disinfect the water you put in your water bottle, depending on the source and on the advice of your guide. It is sometimes possible to buy purified water and fill your bottle without having to buy bottled water. You can also buy "mineral" water in the towns (not included in the price), but as you know, it has a poor environmental performance. So we do not recommend it.
Besides, glacier meltwater contains no mineral salts, which is partly compensated for by the soups and other meals you' will be eating. But if you only drink tea or coffee made from glacier meltwater, or just water in your water bottles, over a long expedition, you will hydrate less well, risk gastric problems and, ultimately, deficiencies that will tire the body. To counter this problem, it is a good idea to pack mineral tablets in your luggage at some point, to supplement your water bottle. Two or three tubes of ten tablets are all you need.
Transfers / Transport
On the outward journey, transport between Dushanbe and the town of Jirgital is provided by private minibus. By MI-8 helicopter between Jirgital and base camp. On the return journey, the same helicopter takes you directly from base camp to Dushanbe or, if not, to Jirgital.
Group size
The group is made up of a maximum of 4 to 6 participants. The number of participants is deliberately limited to allow for greater immersion, to avoid embarrassing our hosts, and to develop freedom and flexibility. However, the maximum number may be exceeded if the last person to register wishes to travel with one or more other people. The services will not be modified, and the conditions of the trip will remain the same.
Equipment
Personal equipment is not provided. A full list is given later in this document. It will be refined with the expedition leader during the preparation days and up to the moment of departure, depending on your questions.
All logistical equipment is provided, including high altitude tents and all collective and individual cooking equipment. Your guide will have a satellite telephone to keep in touch with the outside world, as well as communication and safety equipment, a geolocation beacon, etc. The expedition has a hyperbaric chamber, and a collective pharmacy is available, although it does not replace the compulsory individual pharmacy, a list of which will be provided by Ifremmont.
COMMUNICATIONS
The Iridium satellite phone is used for logistical, weather and safety purposes only. Under certain conditions, participants will be able to use this telephone. For these private uses, please contact us.
At the time of writing, all participants are free to bring any systems they may have. We will just need to be able to declare them to our contacts, so please let us know in advance.
Please note: in order to preserve the serenity of this expedition and the privacy of the participants, we ask you not to communicate with the general public during the expedition. You are, however, free to send information about yourself to your private sphere. By registering for this program, you accept this essential clause to protect the privacy of other participants in a project of this scale, where important issues of image, physical risk and financial considerations (sponsors, etc.) are at stake.
Our commitments to sustainable development
Our commitment to a better planet has been a reality since the beginning of our story but we always need to do more and better. Please find out more about our charter and our commitments in terms of sustainable development. We have drafted our charter and take action through six themes on which we act as concretely as possible, most often with you: social equity and cultural respect, preservation of water, waste management in expedition, protection of biodiversity, raise public awareness on these subjects and finally, the optimization and recovery of CO2 emissions.
Regarding carbon emissions, most of which are due to air travel, we calculated and communicated in 2018 on the carbon footprint of each of our programs, expressed in tonnes of CO2.
These calculations made us aware of the importance of the total carbon emissions generated by our activity. Also, we have committed in 2022 to a carbon reduction that we believe is unprecedented in the tourism industry, aiming to reduce the total emissions of our activity by 5% per year, taking 2019 as the reference year (3,430 tonnes of CO2). This commitment is in line with the trajectory of the Paris climate agreements of 2015, the current benchmark. Thus, in 2030, we commit ourselves not to exceed 2,160 tonnes of C02. Thus, our maximum “carbon” budget for 2024 is 2,950 tonnes and for 2025, this budget will be reduced to 2,800 tonnes. And so on until 2030. To find out more about all of our calculations and our commitments in terms of reducing our carbon emissions.
In addition, since 2019, we have been encouraging you when you book for your journey to contribute with a donation to an independent NGO, among the two we have selected that share the commitments made in our charter. We matched the amount of this donation to this program's carbon footprint. Thus, the journey you are considering generates 4,32 tons of CO2, which corresponds to a 100% donation of €130 for an estimated value today of €30 per tonne of CO2. This donation remains of course optional and you can decide to give between nothing and 100% of this amount. Since 2019, including covid years of 2020 and 2021, we have been able to collect thanks to you nearly €7,000 for these associations.
Please do not hesitate to come back to us with any questions you might have regarding this carbon footprint mechanism, our other sustainable développement commitments or even to share with us your experience through a chat or a mail at contact@secret-planet.com.
Serge Bazin, mountain guide
Originally from Toulon, Serge Bazin did his military service with the Alpine hunters in Bourg-Saint-Maurice. Trained as a topographer and surveyor, he moved to Chamonix in 1985. Together with a team of surveyors, they regularly measure the summit of Mont Blanc, which they climb on foot or skis. In 2021, they will celebrate their twentieth measurement!
For over 20 years, he has been concentrating on his job as a mountain guide, and has travelled all over the world, tackling rare or well-known summits, with participants he guides or with friends. He gives training courses, and prefers self-guided alpine-style expeditions in snow, ice, rock or mixed terrain. He has climbed several "big walls" (El Capitan eight times in Yosemite, USA).
He has been passionate about the Himalayas, and Nepal in particular, for 30 years, and returns there every year, either alone or with participants. Treks, traverses, ascents to 6000, 7000, 8000... His experience makes him one of France's most experienced high-altitude guides.
- Serge has guided participants to the summits of three eight-thousanders: Makalu (8475 m), Manaslu (8163 m) and Cho Oyu (8201 m).
In addition to numerous treks and passes approaching 6000 meters, his list of Asian climbs includes the following peaks, usually with participants he guided, and sometimes several times :
- Summits over 7000 meters: Himlung Himal (7127 m), Lhakpa Ri (7043 m), Korjenevskaya Peak (Tajikistan, 7105 m) and Lenin Peak (Kyrgyzstan, 7134 m), which he has climbed four or five times. He has also attempted the rare Nepalese peaks of Makalu 2 (7650 m – stop at 7500), Langtang Lirung (7200 m – stop at 7000), Ratna Chuli (7127 m– stop at 7000) and Gyanjing Kang (7200 m – stop at 6600 m) with other participants;
- Summits over 6000 meters: Ama Dablam (6856 m), Mera Peak (6470 m), Island Peak (6187 m), Lobuche Peak (6100 m), Pacharmo (6273 m), central Kongde Ri (6187 m), Kyajo Ri (6186 m), Daulhagiri VI – Ongde (6500 m), Chulu West (6419 m), Chulu East (6584 m), Thorung Peak (6100 m), Dhampus Peak (6012 m).
Since 1993, Serge has been offering children special "child walkers" trekking tours, which have seen some forty 8–18 year-olds trekking Nepal with him over the years. Some of them have since become guides...
Finally, he is a guide-trainer for ANENA - Association Nationale Etude Neige et Avalanches, a Grenoble-based training and information institute founded in 1971 by Louis Néel, winner of the Nobel Prize for physics.
In short, Serge has the experience and teaching know-how to optimize your expedition's chances of success, both technically and in terms of group management, both in terms of the pace at which the group builds up its strength and in terms of its progress, which are key elements in this type of expedition.
Reviews
Jérôme P.
Dear Jérôme, thank you for taking the time to give us feedback on your expedition. Well done to you and the whole team for this wonderful expedition. We hope to see you soon.
Alain D.
Thank you very much Alain for this wonderful review and well done to you and the whole team. Serge told me how you had contributed to our collective success, thank you. Pic Communisme, yes, a fantastic piece. Maybe after the Khan Tengri.
Thanks to the expedition companions, Bernard, Valérie, Jérome, Alain, and Mathieu for their good vibes. Thanks to Expédition Unlimited for the support!
Christophe P.
Thank you, dear Christophe, for this review and congratulations on this wonderful expedition. You were a fantastic team.
Departures and pricing
Please find below all dates and prices for this expedition. Prices are quoted "from" and may be adjusted notably according to the number of participants (see trip notes for details). Please note that dates and prices for years beyond 2024, when given, are for guidance only and are subject to change and readjustment to take account of current economic realities.
No date works for me!
I initiate a new datePrice includes
- Overnight accommodation in a 3-star hotel (local standards) in a double room in Dushanbe, including breakfast for two nights
- Airport/hotel transfers and transfers to Korzhenevskoï Peak base camp by private vehicle and helicopter
- Return helicopter flights to/from the base camp
- Luggage allowance/participant on helicopter flights: 30 kilos (count US$6/additional kilo to be paid locally)
- Full-board accommodation at base camp
- Equipment required for life at base camp: fully-equipped kitchen tent, mess tent for meals with heating, toilet tent, table and chairs
- A cook and his assistant at base camp
- At base camp, one tent per person with mattresses
- At base camp, kitchen and mess tents
- High altitude tents, high altitude food, stoves and fuel
- Experienced French UIAGM mountain guide
- Collective equipment required for the ascent (fixed ropes, moorings)
- Walkie-talkies for communication between camps
- Satellite telephone (for weather and safety only)
- Electricity at base camp, generator at Camp 1
- Climbing taxes and permits, all government environmental taxes
- Personalized weather forecast services
- Days of practical preparation with the expedition leader
- Medical follow-up by Ifremmont during the expedition (see above)
- Live coverage of the expedition for your community (supply of InReach beacon, IridiumGo and subscriptions, configuration of LivExplorer service)
Price does not include
- International return flights to Dushanbe
- Excess weight over allowances on international and local flights.
- Consular fees (visa)
- Any customs duties on arrival in Kyrgyzstan
- Any taxes for professional communication equipment and commercial filming.
- Any additional hotel nights in Dushanbe (more than 2 nights)
- Supplements for single accomodation
- Porters between the high-altitude camps (count US$ 12 / kilo between base camp and Camp 1; US$ 14 / kilo between Camp 1 and Camp 3; US$ 22 / kilo between Camp 3 and Camp 4, to be booked and paid for on site)
- Expenses related to a change in the expedition timetable (additional nights' accommodation, additional flights)
- Costs associated with the early return of the expedition or of certain members only (early success, abandonment, etc.), generating costs for accommodation, meals, changes to air tickets or other activities not included in this programme
- Meals in Dushanbe other than breakfasts
- Any personal communications by satellite telephone (to be paid for on site).
- Pre-acclimatisation protocol developed with Ifremmont and Sport Altitude (personalisation, advice, follow-up, equipment) as described above.
- Personal equipment, including individual mountaineering gear.
- Drinks and any personal expenses (personal visits, taxis, souvenirs, dry cleaning, etc.).
- Wifi at base camp and Camp 1 (US$5 at base camp).
- Travel and expedition insurance (assistance, evacuation and repatriation).
- Tips to the accompanying team.
Your custom expedition
We put our expertise, our knowledge of the terrain, our creativity, our experience, the quality of our guides and the reliability of our partners at your service to build your custom expedition. We can also personalize an expedition to your wishes as soon as you form a "closed" group, whatever the number of participants.
This means that, unless you authorize us to do otherwise, no outside participants join you, and we can personalize your expedition by adapting it to your own pace, with the program extensions you desire, a higher level of comfort, certain activities, other encounters, etc.
Every expedition of this type is subject to a specific quotation. To get in touch with us now, please fill in the short questionnaire below. One of our experts will get back to you to refine your request and make you a proposal.
Discover Mountaineering
Ascension du Lobuche East Peak à 6119 mètres et hauts cols de l'Everest
Ascension de l'Island Peak à 6189 mètres et hauts cols de l'Everest
