Magnificent progression route from the Vallée Blanche
Highlights
- Highly experienced French mountain guide
- One of the most beautiful itineraries
- Aiguille du Midi and traverse of the Vallée Blanche
- Ascent of the mythical Pointe Lachenal
- In small groups of no more than 2 participants
- Serious preparation at 4000 m for Mont Blanc
We attempt to climb to the summit of Mont Blanc du Tacul at 4248 meters, a beautiful mountain situated between the Aiguille du Midi and Mont Maudit, in the Mont-Blanc massif. The technical preparation on the Mer de Glace and the gentle progress at altitude allow us to acclimatize and revise our techniques for evolving in a glacial and rocky environment. We review the use of all our equipment, risk assessment and safety. A five-day program of increasing technical difficulty, with the crossing of the Aiguilles des Marbrées at 3535 meters and the ascent of the mythical Pointe Lachenal at 3613 meters. Throughout the course, our guide shares his experience and expert advice.
Overview
Mont Blanc du Tacul is a peak in the Mont-Blanc massif, between the Aiguille du Midi and Mont Maudit, in Haute-Savoie, France, reaching a height of 4248 meters. Its shoulder (4028 m) lies on an access route to Mont Blanc.
Discover our animated itinerary for the ascent of Mont Blanc from Le Tacul to 4248 metres in the Alps
Itinerary
Day 1: Ice school on the Mer de Glace at 1910 meters
Day 1
We start with a good cup of coffee and kick off at 8 a.m. with our guide's presentation of the program for the next five days. Then we head off to glacier school. Now we are heading out into the field. On this first day, we start our training on the famous Mer de Glace, easily accessible thanks to the new Grotte de Glace gondola inaugurated in January 2024. This is a particularly interesting day, as we will be learning all the techniques of cramponing and ice axe use, as well as roping up.
Day 2: Aiguille du Toul ascent — Torino Refuge
Day 2
After waking up early on one of the Mont-Blanc's most beautiful glaciers, we set off with our ice axes and equipment to explore the peaks of the Aiguille du Toul. We leave Chamonix by the Aiguille du Midi cable car. We cross over into Italy with the Panoramic d'Helbronner gondola, which drops us off at the Italian border.
Depending on how far we have come and how much time we have, our guide helps us choose the day's objective. During the ascent of a mixed route (snow and rock mixed), we review the techniques we covered the day before: cramponing and progression techniques, etc. We then spend the night at the Torino hut at 3375 meters altitude.
Day3: Marbrées crossing — Torino refuge
Day 3
There is plenty of climbing to be done today. We are close to some beautiful mountains to climb. If the conditions are right, we will cross the Aiguilles des Marbrées at 3535 meters: a beautiful all-round run with great views of Mont Blanc. At the end of the day, we return to the Torino mountain hut.
Day 4: Vallée Blanche crossing — Pointe Lachenal — Cosmiques refuge
Day 4
We continue our gentle acclimatization, crossing the Vallée Blanche towards France to climb the 3613-meter Pointe Lachenal by crossing it. We enjoy a magnificent view of the Tacul. To finish the climb to our refuge, we opt for the easy Lolo ridge. Here we are at the foot of our 4000-meter summit, the Tacul.
Day 5: Mont Blanc du Tacul summit at 4248 meters
Day 5
After an early breakfast, we set off for the 700- meter climb to this beautiful, serious summit. A warm-up flat takes us to the first difficulty, the rimaye slope, the first crevasse on this slope. It will take us around 3 hours 30 minutes from the hut to reach the top of the mountain. After a descent by the same route and a good rest at the Col du Midi, we can begin the final climb back to the top of the Aiguille du Midi cable car.
END OF EXPEDITION
For reasons that cannot be foreseen at this stage, such as unpredictable weather, the physical fitness or lack of fitness of participants or other circumstancess (customs formalities, road conditions, traffic, landslides, force majeure, etc.), your expedition leader may have to adapt the program, if necessary, to ensure the smooth running of your trip. He remains the sole judge and the one who guarantees your safety. Activity times are given as an indication and may vary from one participant to another.
The itinerary for all our expedition programs, or the ascent program for our high-mountain expeditions, are given here as a guide only. They are flexible enough to adapt to weather conditions with a few contingency days. In any case, you should follow the recommendations of your guide, who may suggest that you cancel your expedition due to weather, safety or physical conditions.
It is important to remember that this is a truly unsupported expedition, and that anything can happen. Expeditions Unlimited, your expedition leader, your guide or our local teams can in no way be held responsible.
Any costs incurred as a result of a change in the expedition schedule (extra nights' accommodation, extra flights) will be borne by the participants and not by the organizers. "Contingency days" refer to the expedition in the strict sense of the term (base camp/base camp in the mountains, departure point/exit point on a traverse, etc.).
Any early return of the expedition or of certain members only (early success, abandonment, etc.), generating costs for accommodation, meals, changes to air tickets or other activities not provided for in this program, will be charged in full to the participants.
Trip notes
Guiding
Your guide on this climb is usually Serge Bazin, one of the world's most experienced guides – see description above. On certain dates, however, and depending on the size of the group, another experienced guide may be appointed, who will be specified when you register.
Your guide will adapt the content of the course according to the technical and physical qualities of the participants, their current state of fitness and the weather. He makes all decisions necessary to ensure the course runs smoothly. His authority is paramount and inescapable. You must respect his decisions, as well as those taken collectively.
If, for reasons beyond our control and duly justified, your designated guide is unable to ensure your stay, he or she will be replaced by another experienced French mountain guide. The services would not be modified, the conditions of the stay would be identical and this change would not constitute a valid reason for cancellation.
Furthermore, we are always dependent on mountain weather conditions. A few days before departure or during your stay, your guide may have to modify the program for your safety. The alternative route (Monte Rosa, Gran Paradiso, etc.) would then be determined with your guide and the other participants. The services would not be modified, the conditions of the stay would be identical and this change would not constitute a valid reason for cancellation.
For unpredictable reasons at this stage, like adverse weather conditions, insufficient physical condition of participants, insufficient competencies of participants related to the intended activities, your guide may decide to adjust the intended program and/or activities. At all times, his decision will be final on all matters likely to affect the safety and well-being of the trip.
Difficulty level
Level rated: challenging
This program is designed for participants who take part in a regular sports activity several times a week, including endurance activity.
Guides are increasingly reluctant to supervise under-age climbers on challenging alpine ascents for reasons of responsibility, especially if they do not know the participant's level. To find out more, do not hesitate to ask us if one of the members of your group is a teenager, and together we will assess the feasibility of the project according to his or her experience.
Technical difficulty
Mountaineering level: F like... Easy (Facile in French!)
In this program, the use of mountaineering equipment (crampons, harness, ice ax, ropes, etc.) is necessary but the route covered does not involve any technical difficulty. It is therefore aimed at beginners or even participants who have never practiced. Clearly, a little prior experience in the activity can be interesting, knowing how to equip yourself, knowing how to tie a few essential knots. The mountaineering courses at our Adventure School from three days are for you. And this technical rating applies of course to normal weather conditions: the difficulty can increase in the event of bad weather conditions, fresh snow on rocks, insufficient or lack of quality of the ice, etc. Likewise, the situation changes radically, for the same technical level, with the altitude, the weight of the bag, the lack of equipment on the route, the fatigue associated with the approach if it is long, the environment if particularly hostile, etc.
Programme sans aérien
Meeting point at Les Houches train station (Chamonix Valley) from 8 a.m.
Given the diverse origins of the participants on this trip, international outward and return flights are not included in this package. In most cases, we book flights on your behalf to ensure that the whole group arrives at the destination at the same time. We do not charge any fees for these air bookings. Please do not hesitate to contact us. If you book your own tickets, we will advise you on the ideal flight schedule to enable all participants to arrive within a reduced time frame. At the very least, you need tickets that can be modified.
Accommodations
Accommodation in a single room at the Hôtel Campanules or, if unavailable, in a hotel of similar standard.
Accommodation in mountain huts (refuges) in shared rooms and dormitories.
Meals
Full board: breakfast and dinner are taken at the hotel or refuge. Lunches are in the form of picnics, and you contribute to a communal fund on arrival, for 70 euros for the whole stay.
Transfers / Transport
No transfers are planned. Participants' own vehicles can be used to get to nearby activities, according to the program defined with Serge. We can put participants in touch with each other for car pooling if required. Cable car and mountain lift passes costing around 100 to 120 euros are included in this package.
Group size
The group is composed of 2 to 2 participants maximum. The number of participants is deliberately limited to allow for greater immersion, to avoid embarrassing our hosts, and to develop freedom and flexibility. However, the maximum number may be exceeded if the last person to register wishes to travel with one or more other people. The services will not be modified, and the conditions of the trip will remain the same.
Equipment
Personal equipment is not provided. However, a complete list is provided to allow you to check that you are taking what is necessary.
Our commitments to sustainable development
Our commitment to a better planet has been a reality since the beginning of our story but we always need to do more and better. Please find out more about our charter and our commitments in terms of sustainable development. We have drafted our charter and take action through six themes on which we act as concretely as possible, most often with you: social equity and cultural respect, preservation of water, waste management in expedition, protection of biodiversity, raise public awareness on these subjects and finally, the optimization and recovery of CO2 emissions.
Regarding carbon emissions, most of which are due to air travel, we calculated and communicated in 2018 on the carbon footprint of each of our programs, expressed in tonnes of CO2.
These calculations made us aware of the importance of the total carbon emissions generated by our activity. Also, we have committed in 2022 to a carbon reduction that we believe is unprecedented in the tourism industry, aiming to reduce the total emissions of our activity by 5% per year, taking 2019 as the reference year (3,430 tonnes of CO2). This commitment is in line with the trajectory of the Paris climate agreements of 2015, the current benchmark. Thus, in 2030, we commit ourselves not to exceed 2,160 tonnes of C02. Thus, our maximum “carbon” budget for 2024 is 2,950 tonnes and for 2025, this budget will be reduced to 2,800 tonnes. And so on until 2030. To find out more about all of our calculations and our commitments in terms of reducing our carbon emissions.
In addition, since 2019, we have been encouraging you when you book for your journey to contribute with a donation to an independent NGO, among the two we have selected that share the commitments made in our charter. We matched the amount of this donation to this program's carbon footprint. Thus, the journey you are considering generates 0,07 tons of CO2, which corresponds to a 100% donation of €2 for an estimated value today of €30 per tonne of CO2. This donation remains of course optional and you can decide to give between nothing and 100% of this amount. Since 2019, including covid years of 2020 and 2021, we have been able to collect thanks to you nearly €7,000 for these associations.
Please do not hesitate to come back to us with any questions you might have regarding this carbon footprint mechanism, our other sustainable développement commitments or even to share with us your experience through a chat or a mail at contact@secret-planet.com.
Serge Bazin, mountain guide
Originally from Toulon, Serge Bazin did his military service with the Alpine hunters in Bourg-Saint-Maurice. Trained as a topographer and surveyor, he moved to Chamonix in 1985. Together with a team of surveyors, they regularly measure the summit of Mont Blanc, which they climb on foot or skis. In 2021, they will celebrate their twentieth measurement!
For over 20 years, he has been concentrating on his job as a mountain guide, and has travelled all over the world, tackling rare or well-known summits, with participants he guides or with friends. He gives training courses, and prefers self-guided alpine-style expeditions in snow, ice, rock or mixed terrain. He has climbed several "big walls" (El Capitan eight times in Yosemite, USA).
He has been passionate about the Himalayas, and Nepal in particular, for 30 years, and returns there every year, either alone or with participants. Treks, traverses, ascents to 6000, 7000, 8000... His experience makes him one of France's most experienced high-altitude guides.
- Serge has guided participants to the summits of three eight-thousanders: Makalu (8475 m), Manaslu (8163 m) and Cho Oyu (8201 m).
In addition to numerous treks and passes approaching 6000 meters, his list of Asian climbs includes the following peaks, usually with participants he guided, and sometimes several times :
- Summits over 7000 meters: Himlung Himal (7127 m), Lhakpa Ri (7043 m), Korjenevskaya Peak (Tajikistan, 7105 m) and Lenin Peak (Kyrgyzstan, 7134 m), which he has climbed four or five times. He has also attempted the rare Nepalese peaks of Makalu 2 (7650 m – stop at 7500), Langtang Lirung (7200 m – stop at 7000), Ratna Chuli (7127 m– stop at 7000) and Gyanjing Kang (7200 m – stop at 6600 m) with other participants;
- Summits over 6000 meters: Ama Dablam (6856 m), Mera Peak (6470 m), Island Peak (6187 m), Lobuche Peak (6100 m), Pacharmo (6273 m), central Kongde Ri (6187 m), Kyajo Ri (6186 m), Daulhagiri VI – Ongde (6500 m), Chulu West (6419 m), Chulu East (6584 m), Thorung Peak (6100 m), Dhampus Peak (6012 m).
Since 1993, Serge has been offering children special "child walkers" trekking tours, which have seen some forty 8–18 year-olds trekking Nepal with him over the years. Some of them have since become guides...
Finally, he is a guide-trainer for ANENA - Association Nationale Etude Neige et Avalanches, a Grenoble-based training and information institute founded in 1971 by Louis Néel, winner of the Nobel Prize for physics.
In short, Serge has the experience and teaching know-how to optimize your expedition's chances of success, both technically and in terms of group management, both in terms of the pace at which the group builds up its strength and in terms of its progress, which are key elements in this type of expedition.
Departures and pricing
Please find below all dates and prices for this expedition. Prices are quoted "from" and may be adjusted notably according to the number of participants (see trip notes for details). Please note that dates and prices for years beyond 2024, when given, are for guidance only and are subject to change and readjustment to take account of current economic realities.
No date works for me!
I initiate a new datePrice includes
- 3/4-star (***) hotel accommodation in Chamonix with breakfast, single room, for one night
- Meals as mentioned in the day-by-day program description
- One night hotel accommodation in single rooms on Day 1
- Mountain refuge accommodation in shared rooms and dormitories
- 1 experienced French mountain guide for the group
- Collective equipment required for the program (fixed ropes, mooring devices)
- Cable cars and mountain lifts if used
- Climbing taxes and permits, government environmental taxes
Price does not include
- Transport to meeting point on first day
- Any additional hotel nights in Chamonix (over 1 night)
- Any transfers not mentioned in the day-by-day program description
- Meals other than those mentioned in the day-by-day program description
- Expenses related to the early return of the expedition or of certain members only (early success, abandonment, etc.), generating costs for accommodation, meals, changes to air tickets or other activities not provided for in this program
- Expenses related to a shift in the expedition schedule (extra nights' accommodation and meals, additional airfares)
- Tips for your mountain guide
- Personal equipment, including individual mountaineering gear
- Rental of personal equipment, subject to availability (ask us)
- Drinks and personal expenses (sightseeing, cabs, souvenirs, dry cleaning, etc.)
- Travel and expedition insurance (assistance, evacuation and repatriation)
Your custom expedition
We put our expertise, our knowledge of the terrain, our creativity, our experience, the quality of our guides and the reliability of our partners at your service to build your custom expedition. We can also personalize an expedition to your wishes as soon as you form a "closed" group, whatever the number of participants.
This means that, unless you authorize us to do otherwise, no outside participants join you, and we can personalize your expedition by adapting it to your own pace, with the program extensions you desire, a higher level of comfort, certain activities, other encounters, etc.
Every expedition of this type is subject to a specific quotation. To get in touch with us now, please fill in the short questionnaire below. One of our experts will get back to you to refine your request and make you a proposal.