Reach the roof of Western Europe
Highlights
- Course led by Bernard Muller, one of France's most renowned mountain guides.
- Ascent of Mont Blanc at 4807 meters, one of the world's most mythical peaks.
- Two days to review the basics of mountaineering and high mountain skills for greater autonomy.
- In small groups of 4 participants maximum
Supervised by Bernard Muller, this program aims to reach the summit of Mont Blanc at 4807 meters via the normal route over three days, with a good chance of success if the weather is favorable. The preliminary three-day course is designed to acclimatize and review techniques for climbing in glacial and rocky environments. We review the use of all our equipment, and look at belaying the leader and second in the roped party, applying protection, abseiling on ropes, and so on. We take a closer look at risk assessment, safety and crevasse rescue. A six-day program of increasing technical difficulty, taking in the magnificent cols of Entrèves and Rochefort and culminating on the roof of Western Europe at 4807 meters. Throughout the course, Bernard talks to us about his countless ascents and shares his expert guiding tips. A training course that allows us to enter mountaineering and the world of high mountains with our feet firmly on the ground... So that our first steps lead us to our most beautiful ascents!
Overview
Discover in one and a half minute the ascent of Mont Blanc by the royal route.
Itinerary
Day 1: Albert 1er refuge and ice school
Day 1
We start with a good cup of coffee, then get underway at 9 a.m. with Bernard's presentation of the program for the next five days. Then we start with the rock school. We are off into the field. We review the climbing equipment needed for a safe ascent:
- ropes, the central element of mountaineering: attachment ropes, double and twin ropes, etc. ;
- belts, cords, carabiners and quickdraws, harnesses, etc. ;
- climbing boots and shoes (their rigidity and weight according to the difficulty of the terrain);
- belay devices, stoppers and positioning for optimum hold.
Bernard reminds us about the use of ropes. We spend some time on the importance of roping up and knots: knots, abseiling ropes, belaying and self-assurance at belays, and so on. Then we start our progression in a rocky environment, learning how to set up protection points, belay, belay devices and harnesses.
With the group's enthusiasm and determination, we continue on our way to the Albert 1er refuge. Given that the mountain hut (refuge) is probably unguarded at the time we go there, we have the chance to live in total autonomy throughout our ascent. The ice school we completed on our way up to the refuge gave us the chance to deepen our knowledge of rope-tying: how to fit a pin, how to set up a belay, how to make a lunula.
As well as setting up protection points, Bernard teaches us glacier progression techniques to improve our balance and movement:
- anchoring: how to obtain a solid anchor using your ice axe;
- cramponing, which varies according to the quality of the terrain: flat-footed (getting as many spikes as possible into the ice), mixed cramponing (one foot flat and the other on the front spikes), frontal cramponing (only the front spikes are anchored in the ice).
Now we are ready to climb the Aiguille du Tour or the Tête Blanche. These two summits offer an easy introduction to mountaineering. In fact, these are two accessible routes for high mountain climbing in exceptionally rich Alpine landscapes. During this day, Bernard teaches us how to evolve on glacier with an ice school apprenticeship.
Day 2: Ascent of Aiguille or Tête Blanche
Day 2
After an early wake-up call on one of Mont Blanc's most beautiful glaciers, we set off with our ice axes and equipment to explore the Aiguille du Tour and Tête Blanche summits. Depending on how far we have progressed and how much time we have, Bernard helps us choose the day's objective. During the ascent, we review the elements we covered on the first few days: belaying, roped walking and progression techniques, etc. Then we return to the valley at the end of the day for a good night's sleep before setting off for Mont Blanc the following day.
Day3: Ascent to the TêteRousse refuge
Day 3
This morning, our back-up guides (one guide for every two participants) join us, and we leave our gîte in Les Houches to take the cable car to the Bellevue plateau and then the Nid d'Aigle via the Mont Blanc tramway. Here, at 2380 meters, we are at the starting point of our ascent of Mont Blanc via the "normal" route. We start out on the stony slopes that lead to the Col des Rognes, and then the trail climbs in tight twists and turns. After crossing the Col des Rognes, we begin the second part of our ascent, with several passages equipped with handrails. All the way up, we enjoy breathtaking views of the north face of the Aiguille de Bionnassay and the Aiguille du Goûter and its mountain hut. We cross a small glacier before reaching the Tête Rousse refuge at 3167 meters. We spend the rest of the day resting and preparing for the next day's ascent. From the refuge, we enjoy a fine view of the north-west face of the Aiguille de Bionnassay and the Aravis chain.
Day 4: Mont Blanc climb
Day 4
Walking time: approx. 8 hours for the ascent / approx. 3 hours for the descent to the Goûter refuge or 5 hours for the descent to the Tête Rousse refuge.
Day 5: Return to Chamonix
Day 5
Today we descend quietly into the valley, reaching first the Tête Rousse refuge (3167 m), then the Nid d'Aigle (2380 m), where the Mont Blanc tramway and then the Bellevue cable car take us back to Les Houches, where we separate after returning our rental equipment, if any.
END OF EXPEDITION
For reasons that cannot be foreseen at this stage, such as unpredictable weather, the physical fitness or lack of fitness of participants or other circumstancess (customs formalities, road conditions, traffic, landslides, force majeure, etc.), your expedition leader may have to adapt the program, if necessary, to ensure the smooth running of your trip. He remains the sole judge and the one who guarantees your safety. Activity times are given as an indication and may vary from one participant to another.
The itinerary for all our expedition programs, or the ascent program for our high-mountain expeditions, are given here as a guide only. They are flexible enough to adapt to weather conditions with a few contingency days. In any case, you should follow the recommendations of your guide, who may suggest that you cancel your expedition due to weather, safety or physical conditions.
It is important to remember that this is a truly unsupported expedition, and that anything can happen. Expeditions Unlimited, your expedition leader, your guide or our local teams can in no way be held responsible.
Any costs incurred as a result of a change in the expedition schedule (extra nights' accommodation, extra flights) will be borne by the participants and not by the organizers. "Contingency days" refer to the expedition in the strict sense of the term (base camp/base camp in the mountains, departure point/exit point on a traverse, etc.).
Any early return of the expedition or of certain members only (early success, abandonment, etc.), generating costs for accommodation, meals, changes to air tickets or other activities not provided for in this program, will be charged in full to the participants.
Trip notes
Guiding
Our course leader is Bernard Muller, one of the world's most experienced guides – see description above. He will adapt the content of the course to the technical and physical qualities of the participants, their current state of fitness, and the weather. He takes all decisions necessary to ensure that the course runs smoothly. His authority is absolute and undeniable. You must respect his decisions, as well as those taken collectively.
If, for reasons beyond our control, Bernard is unable to run the course, he will be replaced by another experienced French mountain guide. The services would not be modified, the conditions of the course would be identical and this change would not constitute a valid reason for cancellation.
For unpredictable reasons at this stage, like adverse weather conditions, insufficient physical condition of participants, insufficient competencies of participants related to the intended activities, your guide may decide to adjust the intended program and/or activities. At all times, his decision will be final on all matters likely to affect the safety and well-being of the trip.
Difficulty level
Level rated: difficult
This program is aimed at participants in good physical shape, with a significant sport practice, endurance in particular, holding a strong mental to face difficulties that are unforeseen by nature.
Technical difficulty
Mountaineering level: F like... Easy (Facile in French!)
In this program, the use of mountaineering equipment (crampons, harness, ice ax, ropes, etc.) is necessary but the route covered does not involve any technical difficulty. It is therefore aimed at beginners or even participants who have never practiced. Clearly, a little prior experience in the activity can be interesting, knowing how to equip yourself, knowing how to tie a few essential knots. The mountaineering courses at our Adventure School from three days are for you. And this technical rating applies of course to normal weather conditions: the difficulty can increase in the event of bad weather conditions, fresh snow on rocks, insufficient or lack of quality of the ice, etc. Likewise, the situation changes radically, for the same technical level, with the altitude, the weight of the bag, the lack of equipment on the route, the fatigue associated with the approach if it is long, the environment if particularly hostile, etc.
Programme sans aérien
Meeting point at Les Houches train station (Chamonix Valley) from 9 a.m.
Given the diverse origins of the participants on this trip, international outward and return flights are not included in this package. In most cases, we book flights on your behalf to ensure that the whole group arrives at the destination at the same time. We do not charge any fees for these air bookings. Please do not hesitate to contact us. If you book your own tickets, we will advise you on the ideal flight schedule to enable all participants to arrive within a reduced time frame. At the very least, you need tickets that can be modified.
Accommodations
Accommodation in mountain lodges (gîtes) and huts (refuges) in shared rooms and dormitories.
Meals
Full board: breakfast and dinner are taken at the gîte or refuge. Lunches are in the form of picnics, and you contribute 70 euros to a communal fund for the entire stay.
Transfers / Transport
No transfers are planned. Participants' own vehicles can be used to get to nearby activities, according to the program defined with Bernard. We can put participants in touch with each other for car pooling if required. Lift passes costing around 100 to 120 euros are included in this package.
Group size
The group is composed of 2 to 4 participants maximum. The number of participants is deliberately limited to allow for greater immersion, to avoid embarrassing our hosts, and to develop freedom and flexibility. However, the maximum number may be exceeded if the last person to register wishes to travel with one or more other people. The services will not be modified, and the conditions of the trip will remain the same.
Equipment
Personal equipment is not provided. However, a complete list is provided to allow you to check that you are taking what is necessary.
Our commitments to sustainable development
Our commitment to a better planet has been a reality since the beginning of our story but we always need to do more and better. Please find out more about our charter and our commitments in terms of sustainable development. We have drafted our charter and take action through six themes on which we act as concretely as possible, most often with you: social equity and cultural respect, preservation of water, waste management in expedition, protection of biodiversity, raise public awareness on these subjects and finally, the optimization and recovery of CO2 emissions.
Regarding carbon emissions, most of which are due to air travel, we calculated and communicated in 2018 on the carbon footprint of each of our programs, expressed in tonnes of CO2.
These calculations made us aware of the importance of the total carbon emissions generated by our activity. Also, we have committed in 2022 to a carbon reduction that we believe is unprecedented in the tourism industry, aiming to reduce the total emissions of our activity by 5% per year, taking 2019 as the reference year (3,430 tonnes of CO2). This commitment is in line with the trajectory of the Paris climate agreements of 2015, the current benchmark. Thus, in 2030, we commit ourselves not to exceed 2,160 tonnes of C02. Thus, our maximum “carbon” budget for 2024 is 2,950 tonnes and for 2025, this budget will be reduced to 2,800 tonnes. And so on until 2030. To find out more about all of our calculations and our commitments in terms of reducing our carbon emissions.
In addition, since 2019, we have been encouraging you when you book for your journey to contribute with a donation to an independent NGO, among the two we have selected that share the commitments made in our charter. We matched the amount of this donation to this program's carbon footprint. Thus, the journey you are considering generates 0,06 tons of CO2, which corresponds to a 100% donation of €2 for an estimated value today of €30 per tonne of CO2. This donation remains of course optional and you can decide to give between nothing and 100% of this amount. Since 2019, including covid years of 2020 and 2021, we have been able to collect thanks to you nearly €7,000 for these associations.
Please do not hesitate to come back to us with any questions you might have regarding this carbon footprint mechanism, our other sustainable développement commitments or even to share with us your experience through a chat or a mail at contact@secret-planet.com.
Bernard Muller, mountain guide
Alsatian by birth, Bernard Muller discovered mountaineering during his teen years.
It is in the late 70s that he begins long expeditions. In 1979 he led an expedition to the summit of Nanga Parbat (8125 m). In the purest alpine style, he then continued other 8000-meter peaks: the South of Dhaulagiri (8167 m) in 1980 and the West face of Manaslu (8163 m) in 1980. Two major successes. Over the following years, Bernard accomplished the South face of Aconcagua (the highest peak in Latin America 6962 m) and a world first without oxygen on the Southeast corridor of Kangchenjunga (8505 m).
Several times he led expeditions to the summits of Gasherbrum II (8035 m), Everest (8848 m), Cho Oyu (8201 m), Shishapangma (8027 m). Bernard then explored the polar lands and succeeded twice in the crossings of Greenland (1997 and 1998), Iceland (1999) and Baffin Island (2000). In short, he is one of the most experienced guides in the world.
Bernard has the expertise to optimize the chances of success of this expedition, in both management rate and group progression, key elements in this type of expedition.
Departures and pricing
Please find below all dates and prices for this expedition. Prices are quoted "from" and may be adjusted notably according to the number of participants (see trip notes for details). Please note that dates and prices for years beyond 2024, when given, are for guidance only and are subject to change and readjustment to take account of current economic realities.
No date works for me!
I initiate a new datePrice includes
- 3/4-star (***) hotel accommodation in Chamonix with breakfast, single room, for one night
- Transfers by private vehicle between activity sites
- Meals as mentioned in the day-by-day program description
- Hotel accommodation in single rooms
- Mountain refuge accommodation in shared rooms and dormitories
- 1 experienced mountain guide for the group on days 1 & 2
- 1 experienced mountain guide per 2 participants for the Mont Blanc ascent (days 3, 4 & 5)
- Collective equipment required for the program (fixed ropes, mooring devices)
- Cable carts and mountain lifts if used
- Climbing taxes and permits, government environmental taxes
Price does not include
- Transport to meeting point on first day
- Any additional hotel nights in Chamonix (over 1 night)
- Any transfers not mentioned in the day-by-day program description
- Meals other than those mentioned in the day-by-day program description
- Expenses related to the early return of the expedition or of certain members only (early success, abandonment, etc.), generating costs for accommodation, meals, changes to air tickets or other activities not provided for in this program
- Expenses related to a shift in the expedition schedule (extra nights' accommodation and meals, additional airfares)
- Tips for your mountain guide
- Personal equipment, including individual mountaineering gear
- Rental of personal equipment, subject to availability (ask us)
- Drinks and personal expenses (sightseeing, cabs, souvenirs, dry cleaning, etc.)
- Travel and expedition insurance (assistance, evacuation and repatriation)
Your custom expedition
We put our expertise, our knowledge of the terrain, our creativity, our experience, the quality of our guides and the reliability of our partners at your service to build your custom expedition. We can also personalize an expedition to your wishes as soon as you form a "closed" group, whatever the number of participants.
This means that, unless you authorize us to do otherwise, no outside participants join you, and we can personalize your expedition by adapting it to your own pace, with the program extensions you desire, a higher level of comfort, certain activities, other encounters, etc.
Every expedition of this type is subject to a specific quotation. To get in touch with us now, please fill in the short questionnaire below. One of our experts will get back to you to refine your request and make you a proposal.
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