One of the most beautiful mountains in the world
Highlights
- One of the world's most aesthetic summits
- Guided by a highly experienced mountain guide
- Ratio 1 guide for 1 participant, 2 participants maximum with a second guide
- Acclimatization on the Dent du Géant and, optionally, on the Aiguilles d'Entrêves
- Depending on level, via the Hörnli ridge or a traverse of the Lion ridge
We attempt to climb the Matterhorn at 4478 metres, one of the world's most aesthetic peaks. The preliminary ascent allows us to acclimatize and revise our techniques for evolving in a glacial and rocky environment. We review equipment use, risk assessment, safety and crevasse rescue. A five-day program of increasing technical difficulty culminating in an ascent of Switzerland's most aesthetic peak. Throughout the expedition, our guide shares his experience and expert advice. A magnificent ascent that takes us straight into the world of mountaineering and high mountains.
Itinerary
Day 1: Arrival in Courmayeur and equipment preparation
Day 1
We arrive in Courmayeur in the afternoon. We prepare and check our equipment with our experienced mountain guide. We then take the cable car up to the Torino refuge, offering spectacular views of the surrounding mountains. The climb to the hut gives us a chance to acclimatize to the altitude in this majestic setting.
Day 2: Ascent of the Dent du Géant at 4013 meters
Day 2
After an early wake-up call, we set off with our ice axes and equipment for the ascent to the summit of the Dent du Géant. Depending on how far we have come and how much time we have, our guide helps us choose the day's objective. Once the ascent is complete, we return to the Torino hut and take the cable car down to Courmayeur.
Day3: Rest day in Courmayeur or to Cervinia
Day 3
Starting today, we have two options for the next 3 days. Option 1 is the classic, round-trip ascent of the Matterhorn via the Hörnli ridge. Option 2, more challenging, wilder and more varied, is a traverse ascent from the Italian side to the Hörnli side via the Lion ridge:
- Option 1: rest day to recuperate from the previous day's ascent, with 3 possible options: rest or do nothing at all! Take advantage of the Pré-Saint-Didier thermal baths for complete relaxation (not included in this package), do the Aiguilles d'Entrèves traverse (3600 m), a fun and varied mixed ridge run in the magnificent setting of the Géant glacier (not included in this package).
- Option 2: we drive to Cervinia (2-hour drive) and take the ski lift to the nearby Oriondé hut (2802 m). In the afternoon, we prepare for the ascent of the Matterhorn the following day. Overnight at the Oriondé hut.
Day 4: Route to Zermatt and Hörnlihütte or Matterhorn Ascent
Day 4
- Option 1: transfer from Courmayeur to Zermatt. We then take the cable car up to the Hörnlihütte (3260 m), a refuge at the foot of the Matterhorn, where we spend the night.
- Option 2: we set off early for the ascent of the Matterhorn via the Lion ridge (4478 m, climb: 649 m). We descend via the Hörnli ridge on the Swiss side to reach the Hörnlihütte hut for the night.
Day 5: Climbing the Matterhorn (Cervin – 4478 m) and back to Zermatt or back to Cervinia
Day 5
- Option 1: We set off early to climb the Matterhorn. Once at the summit, we enjoy an unforgettable panoramic view of the Alps. We return to Zermatt and end the adventure (altitude difference: 1260 m).
- Option 2: In the morning, we descend from the Hörnlihütte to the Schwarzsee lifts. We return to Cervinia via Zermatt by cable car. End of our adventure in Cervinia.
END OF EXPEDITION
For reasons that cannot be foreseen at this stage, such as unpredictable weather, the physical fitness or lack of fitness of participants or other circumstancess (customs formalities, road conditions, traffic, landslides, force majeure, etc.), your expedition leader may have to adapt the program, if necessary, to ensure the smooth running of your trip. He remains the sole judge and the one who guarantees your safety. Activity times are given as an indication and may vary from one participant to another.
The itinerary for all our expedition programs, or the ascent program for our high-mountain expeditions, are given here as a guide only. They are flexible enough to adapt to weather conditions with a few contingency days. In any case, you should follow the recommendations of your guide, who may suggest that you cancel your expedition due to weather, safety or physical conditions.
It is important to remember that this is a truly unsupported expedition, and that anything can happen. Expeditions Unlimited, your expedition leader, your guide or our local teams can in no way be held responsible.
Any costs incurred as a result of a change in the expedition schedule (extra nights' accommodation, extra flights) will be borne by the participants and not by the organizers. "Contingency days" refer to the expedition in the strict sense of the term (base camp/base camp in the mountains, departure point/exit point on a traverse, etc.).
Any early return of the expedition or of certain members only (early success, abandonment, etc.), generating costs for accommodation, meals, changes to air tickets or other activities not provided for in this program, will be charged in full to the participants.
Trip notes
Guiding
Your guide on this climb is usually Yorick Vion, one of the world's most experienced guides - see description above. On certain dates, however, and depending on the size of the group, another experienced guide may be appointed, who will be specified when you register.
Your guide will adapt the content of the course according to the technical and physical qualities of the participants, their current state of fitness and the weather. He makes all decisions necessary to ensure the course runs smoothly. His authority is paramount and inescapable. You must respect his decisions, as well as those taken collectively.
If, for reasons beyond our control and duly justified, your designated guide is unable to ensure your stay, he or she will be replaced by another experienced French mountain guide. The services would not be modified, the conditions of the stay would be identical and this change would not constitute a valid reason for cancellation.
Furthermore, we are always dependent on mountain weather conditions. A few days before departure or during your stay, your guide may have to modify the program for your safety. The alternative route (Monte Rosa, Gran Paradiso, etc.) would then be determined with your guide and the other participants. The services would not be modified, the conditions of the stay would remain the same and this change would not constitute a breach of contract.
For unpredictable reasons at this stage, like adverse weather conditions, insufficient physical condition of participants, insufficient competencies of participants related to the intended activities, your guide may decide to adjust the intended program and/or activities. At all times, his decision will be final on all matters likely to affect the safety and well-being of the trip.
Difficulty level
Level rated: difficult
This program is aimed at participants in good physical shape, with a significant sport practice, endurance in particular, holding a strong mental to face difficulties that are unforeseen by nature.
Guides are increasingly reluctant to supervise under-age climbers on challenging alpine ascents for reasons of responsibility, especially if they do not know the participant's level. To find out more, do not hesitate to ask us if one of the members of your group is a teenager, and together we will assess the feasibility of the project according to his or her experience.
Technical difficulty
Mountaineering level: PD like... A little difficult (Peu Difficile in French)
In this program, the use of mountaineering equipment (crampons, harness, ice ax, ropes, etc.) is necessary and the route tackled may involve small difficulties, whether it is a little more inclined during glacier mountaineering, height of the walls, the length and the continuity of the efforts. It is therefore aimed at rough beginners who already have a little experience in mountaineering, who have already completed a few ascents of this level or slightly below. The mountaineering courses at our Adventure School from three days are for you. And this technical rating applies of course to normal weather conditions: the difficulty can increase in the event of bad conditions, fresh snow on rocks, insufficient or lack of quality of ice , etc. Likewise, the situation changes radically, for the same technical level, with the altitude, the weight of the bag, the lack of equipment on the route, the fatigue associated with the approach if it is long, the environment, if particularly hostile, etc.
Programme sans aérien
Meet directly in Courmayeur in the afternoon (time to be confirmed with the guide)
Given the diverse origins of the participants on this trip, international outward and return flights are not included in this package. In most cases, we book flights on your behalf to ensure that the whole group arrives at the destination at the same time. We do not charge any fees for these air bookings. Please do not hesitate to contact us. If you book your own tickets, we will advise you on the ideal flight schedule to enable all participants to arrive within a reduced time frame. At the very least, you need tickets that can be modified.
Accommodations
Single room accommodation in Courmayeur
Accommodation in mountain huts in shared rooms and dormitories.
Meals
Full board: breakfast and dinner are taken at the hotel or refuge. Lunches are in the form of picnics, and you contribute to a communal fund of 70 euros for the entire stay on arrival.
Transfers / Transport
No transfers are planned. Participants' own vehicles can be used to get to nearby activities, according to the program defined with Yorick. We can put participants in touch with each other for car pooling if required. Cable car and mountain lift passes costing around 100 to 120 euros are included in this package.
Group size
The group is composed of 1 to 2 participants maximum. The number of participants is deliberately limited to allow for greater immersion, to avoid embarrassing our hosts, and to develop freedom and flexibility. However, the maximum number may be exceeded if the last person to register wishes to travel with one or more other people. The services will not be modified, and the conditions of the trip will remain the same.
Equipment
Personal equipment is not provided. However, a complete list is provided to allow you to check that you are taking what is necessary.
Our commitments to sustainable development
Our commitment to a better planet has been a reality since the beginning of our story but we always need to do more and better. Please find out more about our charter and our commitments in terms of sustainable development. We have drafted our charter and take action through six themes on which we act as concretely as possible, most often with you: social equity and cultural respect, preservation of water, waste management in expedition, protection of biodiversity, raise public awareness on these subjects and finally, the optimization and recovery of CO2 emissions.
Regarding carbon emissions, most of which are due to air travel, we calculated and communicated in 2018 on the carbon footprint of each of our programs, expressed in tonnes of CO2.
These calculations made us aware of the importance of the total carbon emissions generated by our activity. Also, we have committed in 2022 to a carbon reduction that we believe is unprecedented in the tourism industry, aiming to reduce the total emissions of our activity by 5% per year, taking 2019 as the reference year (3,430 tonnes of CO2). This commitment is in line with the trajectory of the Paris climate agreements of 2015, the current benchmark. Thus, in 2030, we commit ourselves not to exceed 2,160 tonnes of C02. Thus, our maximum “carbon” budget for 2024 is 2,950 tonnes and for 2025, this budget will be reduced to 2,800 tonnes. And so on until 2030. To find out more about all of our calculations and our commitments in terms of reducing our carbon emissions.
In addition, since 2019, we have been encouraging you when you book for your journey to contribute with a donation to an independent NGO, among the two we have selected that share the commitments made in our charter. We matched the amount of this donation to this program's carbon footprint. Thus, the journey you are considering generates 0,07 tons of CO2, which corresponds to a 100% donation of €2 for an estimated value today of €30 per tonne of CO2. This donation remains of course optional and you can decide to give between nothing and 100% of this amount. Since 2019, including covid years of 2020 and 2021, we have been able to collect thanks to you nearly €7,000 for these associations.
Please do not hesitate to come back to us with any questions you might have regarding this carbon footprint mechanism, our other sustainable développement commitments or even to share with us your experience through a chat or a mail at contact@secret-planet.com.
Yorick Vion, mountain guide
Yorick is a mountain guide. Freeride ski competitor on the IFSA world tour from 2005 to 2010, he is a specialist in steep skiing, with several openings in the Vanoise and extreme descents in the Alps. He supervises our mountaineering courses in the Alps and our high-altitude ascents. Yorick has first-hand experience of mountaineering at very high altitude.
He has climbed Everest (8849 m), Lhotse (8516 m) and Manaslu (8163 m), that he has skied down . He stopped at 7600 meters on Annapurna (8091 m) in an unassisted solo attempt. He took part in the opening of an Icefall bypass on Everest.
In France, he has climbed the north face of the Grandes Jorasses - Combinaison Polonaise and Colton Mac Intyre, the north face of the Eiger via the Heckmair route, the north face of the Matterhorn via the Schmidt route, the north face of the Tournier, Ginat and Colton-Brooks spurs, the central pillar of Mont Blanc at Le Freney and the integral of Peuterey. He has also made several rock climbing openings in the Vanoise region.
In Central Asia, he climbed Khan Tengri (7010 m), Chapayev (6150 m), and made an attempt on Pobeda peak (7439 m), all solo in Kyrgyzstan.
In Nepal, he has climbed Baruntse (7129m) and Sundari Peak (5880m).
Departures and pricing
Please find below all dates and prices for this expedition. Prices are quoted "from" and may be adjusted notably according to the number of participants (see trip notes for details). Please note that dates and prices for years beyond 2024, when given, are for guidance only and are subject to change and readjustment to take account of current economic realities.
No date works for me!
I initiate a new datePrice includes
- 3/4-star (***) hotel accommodation in Courmayeur with breakfast, single room, for one night
- Meals as mentioned in the day-by-day program description
- Hotel accommodation in single rooms
- Mountain refuge accommodation in shared rooms and dormitories
- 1 experienced mountain guide for the group on days 1 & 2
- 1 experienced French mountain guide
- Collective equipment required for the program (fixed ropes, mooring devices)
- Cable cars and mountain lifts if used
- Climbing taxes and permits, government environmental taxes
Price does not include
- Transport to meeting point on first day
- Any additional hotel nights in Chamonix (over 1 night)
- Any transfers not mentioned in the day-by-day program description
- Meals other than those mentioned in the day-by-day program description
- Expenses related to the early return of the expedition or of certain members only (early success, abandonment, etc.), generating costs for accommodation, meals, changes to air tickets or other activities not provided for in this program
- Expenses related to a shift in the expedition schedule (extra nights' accommodation and meals, additional airfares)
- Tips for your mountain guide
- Personal equipment, including individual mountaineering gear
- Rental of personal equipment, subject to availability (ask us)
- The option of crossing the Aiguilles d'Entrèves (3600 m) at an additional cost of 600 €.
- Drinks and personal expenses (other activities, spa, sightseeing, cabs, souvenirs, dry cleaning, etc.)
- Travel and expedition insurance (assistance, evacuation and repatriation)
Your custom expedition
We put our expertise, our knowledge of the terrain, our creativity, our experience, the quality of our guides and the reliability of our partners at your service to build your custom expedition. We can also personalize an expedition to your wishes as soon as you form a "closed" group, whatever the number of participants.
This means that, unless you authorize us to do otherwise, no outside participants join you, and we can personalize your expedition by adapting it to your own pace, with the program extensions you desire, a higher level of comfort, certain activities, other encounters, etc.
Every expedition of this type is subject to a specific quotation. To get in touch with us now, please fill in the short questionnaire below. One of our experts will get back to you to refine your request and make you a proposal.
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