Climb Kun at 7077 meters in Ladakh

Flight from Europe to Delhi. Arrival at the end of the day or at night. Welcome by our local team and transfer to your hotel.

Day devoted to administrative formalities with the Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF). It is mandatory that all members of the expedition be present at the briefing, during which you will meet the liaison officer who must accompany you for the duration of the trip. A short city tour may be organised, either before or after the meeting.

Early transfer to Delhi domestic airport and flight to Leh. If the climate allows it, we will have a very beautiful view of the great Himalayan range. Arrival at Leh airport, capital of Ladakh, at 3500 meters above sea level, located north of the Indus. Transfer to the hotel, and rest of the day free to acclimatize.

Important day for your acclimatization. You can stroll at leisure in the lively streets of the capital of Ladakh. A visit to one or even two monasteries near Leh can be organized by your guide, at the request of the participants.

Transfer day to reach the village of Kanji, 150 kilometers from Leh. We follow the historic road that connects Leh to Srinagar, capital of the state of Jammu and Kashmir. The road, very well maintained, offers splendid views. It overlooks the course of the Indus whose waters are considerably enlarged at the confluence with the Zanskar River. A few kilometers after the village of Khalse, we leave the Indus which continues its course towards Pakistan. The road enters austere gorges and a lunar landscape before reaching the famous monastery of Lamayuru. Stop to visit it. Picnic.

We continue in the direction of vertiginous laces which lead to the Fatu La Pass (4108 m). A few kilometers after the pass, we branch off into a transverse valley. The track weaves through an incredible path carved into majestic gorges to reach the small village of Kanji, the starting point of our three-day trek.

First step of our acclimatization trek. Before leaving, do not miss the visit of the small Gompa (monastery) which dominates the village. The path follows the bottom of the valley. Several summer hamlets welcome yaks and their shepherds. We follow the river which supplies water to the village of Kanji. Many fords to cross (it is best to bring sandals for this stage!). Flat pitches covered with grass are rare. The altitude is felt, the walk is slow. In the afternoon, we stop at the foot of the pass.

Slow but tough climb to reach Kanji Pass. It is not uncommon to still find snow on the last slopes under the pass. Located at 5470 meters, it puts our still poorly acclimatized organisms to the test. But the view of the Zanskar mountains is our reward for the efforts made. Long descent on the opposite side, in a terrain that is not always comfortable for the mules carrying our luggage. When we reach the turbulent main stream at the bottom of the valley, we must first go up its course to the confluence of several torrents where crossing becomes possible. The camp is located at the level of this confluence, or even a little further downstream if the crossing was carried out without difficulty.

Last day of trekking. Still several fords to cross. We follow the orographic right bank of the main river to the alluvial plain at the end of which is Rangdum Gompa (4031 m), at the confluence with the important Suru River. The setting is magnificent, with the gompa placed on its hill overlooking the entire valley. After the visit, we find our vehicles for a short transfer to Golmatangol (3925 m) where we set up camp, on the right bank of the Suru.

A few years ago, crossing the Suru required quite a bit of acrobatics due to the lack of a reliable bridge. Times change and this bad crossing is only a memory. The path goes up a wide valley at the foot of imposing limestone walls, before reaching the glacial moraines at the foot of the Kun. The base camp is established around 4500 meters, near a torrent. The view is imposing, but our mountain hides. You will have to wait to arrive on the big plateau to discover it.

Fourteen useful days with 2 to 3 days of contingency in case of bad weather. We then define our program of ascent. For illustration, it may look like this:

D10: rest at base camp (4500 m) and definition of approach tactics

D11: ascent to altitude Camp 1 (Altitude Camp 1 = AC1) at 5200 meters

We go up for 2 to 3 hours a moraine which leads to the foot of the Shafath Glacier. A path between many crevasses leads to the foot of the corridor leading to the large plateau. After setting up camp, return to base camp.

Number of trek hours: 4 to 5 heures from BC to AC1, 2 hours to return to BC 

Elevation: +700 m – Final altitude: 4500 m

D12: rest at base camp

D13: climb to Camp 1

Number of trek hours: 4 to 5 hours

Elevation: + 700 m – Final altitude: 5200 m

D14: climb to Camp 2 (6200 m)

The most technical part of the climb. A mixed and ice corridor with an average inclination of 45° leads to the "Snow Plateau" (the large plateau). The sherpas lay fixed ropes all along the corridor to facilitate progression. At the top, we finally discover the Kun and the Nun (7135 m) on our left. The south-eastern face of the Kun which is offered to our eyes, entirely rocky, will have to be circumvented to finally see the route leading to the summit.

Number of trek hours: 5 to 7 heures
Elevation: + 850 m – Final altitude: 6200 m

D15: return to Camp 1 (5200 m)

Number of trek hours: 3 to 4 hours

Elevation: - 850m – Final altitude: 5200 m

D16: rest at Camp 1

D17: climb to Camp 2

D18: climb to Camp 3 (6350 m)

Crossing the large plateau. Three tedious kilometers of flat. The weather of the day can make them very difficult: if the weather is fine, it quickly gets very hot; conversely, the wind can blow violently. It is preferable to set milestones all along the route to easily find your way back in case of bad weather. Gradually the northeast face is revealed, the rest of the route seems obvious.

Number of hours of walking : 4 to 5 hours

Elevation : +150m – Final altitude : 6350 m

D19: ascent of Kun (7077 m) and return to Camp 2

The route begins by ascending snow slopes at 40° to reach the wide saddle at 6500 meters, which separates Kun from Pinnacle Peak (6930 m). We then follow the northeast ridge, with a dizzying view of the opposite side. The ridge, inclined at 35°/40°, can have short, slightly steeper jumps. The difficulty depends a lot on the quality of snow and ice. Some years, almost the entire ridge must be equipped with fixed ropes. Return by the same route. Night at Camp 3 or, if the form of the participants allows it, direct return to Camp 2. This option avoids having to cross the Snow Plateau the next day if the weather changes suddenly.

Number of trek hours: 7 to 9 hours

Elevation: +700 m –  Final altitude: 6350 m or 5200 m

D20: descent to Camp 1

D21: descent to base camp

D22 & 23: contingency days in case of bad weather.

We resume the route followed on the climb to reach Golmatangol where we find a bit of the comfort of civilization!

The vehicles are waiting for us to take us on the way back. Chaotic track along the Suru River. Passage at the foot of the glacier from the Nun (in the early 90s, the glacier almost arrived on the road!). We reach Kargil (2900 m), a Muslim town a few kilometers from the hotly disputed border with nearby Pakistan. We leave the valley of the Suru to sink again towards the Buddhist lands that we find in the village of Mulbeck. A large Buddha, carved in stone, clearly indicates the change in culture.

On leaving Mulbeck, the road climbs steeper to cross the Namika La (3700 m) before descending to the confluence with the Indus Valley. We follow the course of the famous river to soon find the route followed on the outward journey. Ascent to Fatu La, a last look at the remarkable buildings of Lamayuru. The route after Lamayuru differs from that followed on the way out, giving way to a spectacular course. Arrival in Leh late afternoon. The route from Mulbeck is "only" 175 kilometers long, but it will remain etched in our memories.

Early wake-up to catch the flight to Delhi. On arrival, transfer to the hotel. The rest of the day is free.

A "must" meeting at the Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF) for debriefing and congratulations. The Indian authorities attach great importance to this “ceremony”, which may seem old-fashioned and tedious to some. Afternoon at leisure.

In the evening, transfer to the airport for the return flight. One or two rooms will be at your disposal to leave your belongings and take a shower before your flight.