Breathtaking view of K2
Highlights
- Ratio of 1 sherpa to 1 participant
- Ascent with or without oxygen supply
- Experienced expedition leader
- Trekking on Baltoro glacier
- Special care given to high-altitude food
- H24 personalized weather forecast services and medical hotline
- Preparation course, live expedition coverage
- Guaranteed departure from the first participant
We attempt to climb Broad Peak, the twelfth highest peak on earth, at a slightly higher technical level than the ascent of Gasherbrum II. The direct route to the summit avoids spending a long time in high camps. The route is sheltered from the usual objective dangers: no unstable serac bars, no large avalanche slopes. Just three camps may be enough to reach the summit. The ascent is carried out along the west ridge to the small pass (Windy Gap) which separates the Broad Peak Central (8011 m) from the Broad Peak itself (8047 m). It appears to be one of the safest 8000 meter peaks, and with the best success rate. The approach is via the Baltoro glacier and the return via the Gondogoro Pass and the Hushe valley, thus completing a very complete route with a unique approach trek of its kind.
Overview
In 1957, the ascent of Broad Peak (8047 m) went almost unnoticed, overshadowed by the disappearance of one of the members of the expedition, the most famous protagonist of the time: the Austrian Hermann Buhl. Strongly marked by the legendary ascent he made at Nanga Parbat in 1953, Buhl, partially amputated toes on his right foot, is far from being in good shape. If Broad Peak was climbed, it was thanks to the strength and endurance of Fritz Wintersteller (he was nicknamed the “bull”). He will also be the first to set foot on the summit. A few days later, during an aborted attempt at Chogolisa, Buhl lost track in the storm and fell to his death.
Broad Peak, the twelfth highest peak on earth, with a slightly higher technical level than the ascent of Gasherbrum II, has many advantages. The direct route to the summit avoids spending a long time in high camps. The route is sheltered from the usual objective dangers: no unstable serac bars, no large avalanche slopes.
If you are in excellent shape, just three camps may be enough to reach the summit. The ascent is carried out along the west ridge to the small pass (Windy Gap) which separates the Broad Peak Central (8011 m) from the Broad Peak itself (8047 m). It appears to be one of the safest 8,000 meter peaks, and with the best success rate.
The approach is via the Baltoro glacier and the return via the Gondogoro Pass and the Hushe valley, thus completing a very complete route with a unique approach walk of its kind.
The ascent of Broad Peak is often carried out as a prelude to the more serious climb of K2. We can offer you this economically attractive, time-saving, but physically very demanding Broad Peak/K2 combination.
To learn more about the history of the ascent of Broad Peak, see our blog article “1957: the Austrians, precursors of the alpine style on Broad Peak (8047 m)”
Find here the animated route of the ascent of Broad Peak with a view of K2.
MOUNTAINEERS' WORDS
These words from mountaineers on their ascent of Everest apply perfectly to our ascent of Broad Peak.
"What is it that makes this summit so fascinating to all mountaineers?... It is the highest mountain in the world... The many expeditions, the men who have conquered it, have not succeeded in making it smaller... The altitude remains." – Reinhold Messner
"We didn't have to wait for the ultimate vision. Above the fog, Everest was still before us...: motionless as Keats's star in its solitary splendor, and so high in the night! Eternal watchman of the shadows, the Mount seemed to inebriate the world with its radiance." - George Leigh Mallory
"Suddenly, it occurred to me that the ridge in front of us, instead of continuing to rise, was falling sharply; much lower down, I could see the North Col and the Rongbuck Glacier; in the foreground, a narrow snow ridge climbed towards a snowy summit; a few more ice axe strokes in the hardened snow... and we were at the summit. It was 11:30 a.m." - Edmund Hillary May 29, 1953
COLLECTIVE ADVENTURE
While it remains an exceptional adventure, the ascent of an 8000er is no longer an undertaking reserved for a very high-level alpine elite. Advances in logistics, mountain equipment, weather forecasting, gear and the physical fitness of mountaineers mean that the world's highest peaks are now accessible to technically autonomous, well-trained and highly motivated mountaineers.
Our expedition will be a collective adventure, a confluence of motivations and energies, a meeting of the capacities of an organization and motivated climbers. Two parallel challenges will have to be met:
- for the participants: to be physically, technically and mentally at the top of their game at all times;
- for the organizer: to provide irreproachable logistics enabling access to the high altitude camps under optimum conditions. Beyond that, it is up to the participants to play their part, taking part independently in the assaults on the summit ridge led by the guide and sherpas.
The main objective of this expedition is to experience an adventure that requires total commitment, both physical and moral, acting with lucidity and humility in a hostile natural environment that forgives no imprudence or temerity leading to death. It is this testimony that must be wisely remembered.
Good observance of all safety rules is essential, as is good physical and psychological preparation, a warm and supportive environment, total serenity, a little tactics and then, if the weather is kind and luck is on your side, you will be able to count down the magic minutes at the summit when effort ceases and nothingness fills the space and instills itself within you.
It is agreed by all parties that giving up is never a failure, but that accepting it can also be a victory over oneself. Any preparation, even the most meticulous, any will, even the most tenacious, can be defeated by the adversity of natural environments whose force is exponentially stronger than the finest human intelligence. Let the gods bless us and allow us to tread the summit.
THE MOTTO IS: DARE TO CLIMB, KNOW HOW TO DESCEND
VERY HIGH ALTITUDE
Advice from Hubert Giot, mountain guide. He has taken part in several expeditions to 8000 meters and climbed Everest without oxygen.
It is not easy to establish rules, because mountaineers are not equal when it comes to altitude, either physiologically or mentally. Everyone seems to have their own plateau where they get stuck. Extremely demanding, this stage is always painful, but not unmanageable. Once you are past this stage, everything's fine... or not so bad. It is generally at this point that you get a better idea of your ability to adapt. This can happen as early as 6000 meters, or even earlier, during the approach trek.
High altitude also has its own rules, and transgressing them becomes inherently dangerous. There is a fundamental difference between climbing to 8000 meters and descending immediately, and staying there for 12 or 24 hours.
At this altitude, the trouble really starts, and every minute spent up there leads to an inexorable process of self-destruction. We experience loss of sleep, lack of appetite, apathy and often hallucinatory phenomena.
In short... above 8000 meters, you are being consumed. For novices, anything is possible, just remember a few basic rules. The first few days at base camp serve as a thermometer, and by the third day you are often starting to feel good. It is then up to you to decide how to divide up the stages: either use the usual camp sites, or those defined by the terrain. As a general rule, when you can sleep at 6500 meters without headaches, you are ready to go higher. However, it is a good idea to make two return trips to 7000/7500 meters, to test your potential. During these essential shuttles, it is important to stay well hydrated. Now it is time to spend an often uncomfortable night at around 7500 meters, then attempt the summit at 8000 meters. If the summit is beyond that, we try to sleep at 8000.
As for the rest, you need to be prepared to use your brain (or what is left of it) rather than your muscles, because meters, beyond 8500 meters, are more costly. And if I say brain, it is because it has to be sufficiently alert to decide when to descend. If it does not, it is a sure death. Doing an 8000 in good conditions is hard, but with cold, wind, snow or a barometric depression, it turns into a nightmare.
As a general rule, here are a few precautions to take:
- don't get too cold;
- don't get too hot;
- cover your head;
- stay hydrated, even in bad weather;
- try to have one hot snack a day;
- during the trek, do not walk bare-chested;
- at high altitudes, keep an eye on each other; don't doze off together;
- never descend alone;
- set limits for yourself, and look out for signs such as mirages, falling asleep and total loss of appetite;
- never hesitate to turn back, whatever the pressure;
- and in all cases, accept the fact that the mountains will always be there.
In short, to evolve at high altitude, you need meticulous preparation, adequate acclimatization, constant and mutual verification, intellectual vigilance at all times, and immediate renunciation in the event of weakness, doubt or danger.
Take a look at our web-conference on climbing Everest and Manaslu.
Itinerary
Day 0
EXPEDITION summary PROGRAM
- Days 1 & 2: International flights to Islamabad
- Day 3: Islamabad – Skardu
- Day 4: Skardu, rest day
- Day 5: Skardu – Askole
- Day 6: Askole – Jola
- Day 7: Jola – Paiju
- Day 8: Paiju – Khorbutse
- Day 9: Khorbutse – Urdokas
- Day 10: Urdokas – Goro II
- Day 11: Goro II – Concordia
- Day 12: Concordia – Broad Peak base camp
- Day 13 - 35: Ascent of Broad Peak
- Day 36: Concordia – Ali Camp
- Day 37: Ali Camp – Khuspang
- Day 38: Khuspang – Saisho
- Day 39: Saisho – Ushe – Skardu
- Day 40: Skardu – Islamabad
- Day 41: Islamabad, contingency day
- Days 42 & 43: International flights
DETAILED EXPEDITION PROGRAM
Day1: International flight
Day 1
Flight to Islamabad, capital of Pakistan. Most often arrival is during the night from day 1 to day 2.
Day 2: Arrival in Islamabad
Day 2
Arrival of the various participants. We are welcomed at the airport by our local team. Transfer to the hotel and rest. Depending on your arrival time, short visit to Islamabad and Rawalpindi.
Day 3: Islamabad – Skardu or Islamabad – Chilas
Day 3
Depending on the weather, domestic flight to reach Skardu, otherwise we take the road to reach Chilas, known for its Buddha engravings. (11 to 13 hours by bus) on the Karakoram Highway (KKH), along the Indus.
Day 4: Chilas – Skardu or rest day in Skardu
Day 4
If we were not able to reach Skardu the day before, we continue our route along the KKH. Night at the hotel in Skardu. We complete the formalities for the trekking permit to be able to leave for Askole the next day.
Day 5: Skardu – Askole
Day 5
We travel up the Shigar Valley by jeep to Askole, passing through Dassu, and cross a field of lunar-looking sand dunes before heading up the Braldo Gorge. The villages spread out on either side of the valley immerse us in a green universe contrasting with the mineral atmosphere of the place. Askole is the last village before entering a world of ice and rock, the starting point of our trek.
Day 6: Askole – Jola
Day 6
Today, we start our trek by walking to Jola from Askole. At the exit of the village we leave the last cultivated plots to begin our approach towards the front of the Baltoro glacier. A bridge renovated in 2019 allows us to leave the route which gives access to the Biafo glacier before reaching Korofon (3090 m) for our lunch break, under life-saving groves.
Before joining the torrent of the Panmah glacier, we take a balcony path which allows us to have a first view of the Baltoro basin. A final bridge and we finally reach the shaded area of Jola, where we set up camp.
Day 7: Jola – Paiju
Day 7
In the morning, we resume our walk on the mountainside, between the river bed and the terraces. Along the way, we discover the first views of the Paiju Peak (6610 m), the Trango Towers (6286 m) and the Cathedral massif (6024 m), the first big walls of the Baltoro valley. We set up camp in Paiju, in the last wooded area before joining the glacier the next day.
Day 8: Paiju – Khorbutse
Day 8
In the morning, we leave Paiju on foot to reach Khorbutse. We set foot on the Baltoro glacier and cross it to reach its left bank, and can fleetingly see the rounded summit of Broad Peak...At the Khoburtse camp (3800 m), we are facing the legendary Trango Towers and the famous “nameless tower” and, even at this altitude, the high mountain atmosphere is already felt.
Day 9: Khorbutse – Urdukas
Day 9
We continue our trek towards Urdukas. Cathedral and Lobsang will be our reference massifs for this short day. Short, certainly, but necessary for acclimatization. This evening, the atmosphere is relaxed and it is an opportunity for the porters to offer us a first improvised concert.
Day 10: Urdukas – Goro II
Day 10
We go back down to the Baltoro glacier and then go up it more or less through its middle. Other mythical peaks appear as we progress: on the left bank stands the north face of Masherbrum (7821 m) and on the right bank appears the fabulous Muztagh Tower (7273 m) whose ascent represented a step forward in the history of mountaineering. It was one of the first times that an expedition mixed high altitude and technical difficulties. Even today, the Baltoro glacier attracts the most gifted mountaineers who dream of climbing it and, why not, opening a new route on one of its fabulous mountains. At the end of the day at Goro II (4280 m) Gasherbrum IV (7925 m) monopolizes our attention and we are captivated by its beauty, especially at sunset, the colors of which give it the nickname “shining wall”.
Day 11: Goro II – Concordia
Day 11
We finish our progression along the Baltoro before arriving at Concordia, a surprising and mythical location, which takes its name from the meeting of two powerful glaciers: that of Godwin Austen which melts into the Baltoro glacier. The 360° panorama offers us a breathtaking view of a whole series of splendid mountains. First of all the famous K2 (8611 m) and Broad Peak (8047 m), two of the four 8000 meters of the Baltoro basin. Miter (6013 m) ends up monopolizing the attention and you have to part with it to finally contemplate the Baltoro Kangri (7462 m), the Chogolisa (7665 m), the Cristal Peak (6252 m), or even the mountain.
Day 12: Concordia – Broad Peak base camp
Day 12
During this last stage of the approach walk, we go up the Godwin Austen glacier along the foot of the west face of Broad Peak. The base camp is established at an altitude of 4900 meters. Broad Peak justifies its name “the massive mountain”. We are also in sight of K2, now very close, in front of us.
Days 13 to 35: Ascent of Broad Peak
Day 13
The ascent requires the installation of three to four altitude camps.
- Base camp: 4900 m on the Godwin Austen glacier, northwest of the summit
- Camp 1: 5400 m
- Camp 2: 6450 m
- Camp 3: 7100 m
- Camp 4: optional around 7500 m
The route we are going to take goes up the west ridge. The steepest parts of the route are between Camps 1 and 2 and below Broad Col or Windy Gap (7900 m). They are equipped with fixed ropes. The passage under the pass justifies the AD rating of the route. It is therefore a little more difficult than the ascent of Gaherbrum II, but everything depends, as is often the case, on the snow conditions.
FROM BASE CAMP (4900 M) TO CAMP 1 (5400 M)
From base camp, we reach the foot of the west ridge of the mountain. Conditions can vary considerably during the season with either deep snow or mixed games. A narrow corridor leads to a spur. The camp is set up on a platform exposed to the wind, but with an already grandiose panorama. The fixed ropes allow you to progress in complete safety on the ascent and descent – 4 to 6 hours of ascent depending on acclimatization.
FROM CAMP 1 (5400 M) TO CAMP 2 (6450 M)
The route crosses a depression on the right, goes up a steep slope (50° - fixed rope) to emerge on the plateau which leads towards the Broad Col. Camp 2 is set up on a platform offering a splendid view of K2 – 6 to 8 hours of ascent depending on acclimatization.
FROM CAMP 2 (6450 M) TO CAMP 3 (7100 M)
The route goes up the large plateau which leads under the Broad Col also called Windy Gap. Sometimes cracked, depending on the snow conditions (ice or snow), the installation of fixed ropes may be necessary. Camp 3 is located on a break in the slope at the top of the large plateau – 6 to 8 hours of ascent depending on acclimatization.
FROM CAMP 3 (7100 M) TO CAMP 4 (7500 M) AND TO THE SUMMIT (8034 M)
If the snow conditions are favorable (hard or shallow snow), the final stage towards the summit can begin from Camp 3. Otherwise, an intermediate camp at 7500 meters (for one night) is necessary. You need to plan for a long-term effort, 12 to 14 hours, to complete the round trip and return to Camp 3.
A short mixed section (incline between 30° and 50°) leads to Broad Col (Windy Gap) (7900 m), which separates the central summit from the main summit. You are at the foot of the long north ridge which leads to the summit. You have to be careful because of the many cornices. Some small rock formations must be bypassed. You reach the antepeak or Rocky Summit (8028 m). Another thirty minutes to an hour of additional effort are necessary to cover the 400 meters which separate you from the true summit at 8047 meters. Today, a bamboo milestone replaces the ski pole left by Austrian mountaineer Hans Kammerlander in 1994, after many “successful” ascents actually stopped at the summit. Take a photo at the summit with this characteristic marker to prove your success. The view of the nearby K2 and the Baltoro glacier is breathtaking.
Day 36: Concordia – Ali Camp
Day 36
We turn our backs on K2 to head towards the Vigne glacier. An early departure is necessary to avoid the pitfalls of this glacier. Even if the bottom of the valley attracts us, it is important to turn around from time to time to admire K2, Chogori or the “wild mountain”, which remains the most majestic of places. We leave Ali Camp on the left bank to go around the last crevasse, in order to reach it on its rocky promontory and set up camp, our last on the Baltoro watershed.
Day 37: Ali Camp – Gondogoro – Khuspang
Day 37
Departure at night with headlamps, in order to take advantage of the best conditions to reach the foot of the Gondogoro Pass which will take us towards the other side. For many years, the Hushe Rescue Team has been setting up the ascent and descent of the pass, and so we have to use the fixed ropes set up on the steep parts of the pass. The goal is to arrive at the pass (5625 m) at sunrise, to admire the burning of K2 and the superb view of Laila Peak (6096 m). Snow, ice and rock conditions can of course change during the season and depending on climatic hazards.
Once this part has been crossed, we begin a beautiful descent towards Khuspang where we set up camp near a lake offering a beautiful view of Laila Peak.
Day 38: Khusang – Saisho
Day 38
Today, we continue our descent on the Gondogoro glacier to lose altitude and find some vegetation and a little more heat at the end of the day. We go around Laila Peak and its beautiful tapered shape and set up camp among the trees at Saisho. Meeting the shepherds at the camp allows us to experience one last festive evening with our team and celebrate together the passage of the pass as well as the entire trek which is ending.
Day 39: Saisho – Hushe – Skardu
Day 39
Today we leave for our last day of trekking and after a good three hours of walking we finally reach the village of Hushe. After more than ten days in a mineral and high altitude environment, we are back to the atmosphere of the Balti villages, which does not displease us. All that remains is to thank the local team before taking the road to Skardu and sleeping at the hotel (5 hours in a 4x4 vehicle).
Day 40: Skardu – Islamabad or Chilas
Day 40
Depending on the weather, we take our flight from Skardu to Islamabad. Once in the capital, we have the rest of theday to visit the city, including the Shah Faisal Mosque and the Lok Virsa Museum (Heritage Museum) whichoffers a very comprehensive and magnificent collection of crafts from the country and Central Asia. If the flight is canceledwe take the road towards Chilas (8 hours) by the KKH, keeping the Indus as a guideline andunder the gaze of Nanga Parbat (8126 m).
Day 41: Islamabad or Chilas – Islamabad
Day 41
Depending on the previous day, either the day is dedicated to rest and exploring Islamabad, or we continue our route from Chilas to Islamabad.
Day 42: International return flight from Islamabad
Day 42
Depending on our plane's schedule, we are accompanied to the airport to take our international flight to Europe.
Day 43: Arrival in Europe
Day 43
END OF EXPEDITION
For reasons that cannot be foreseen at this stage, such as unpredictable weather, the physical fitness or lack of fitness of participants or other circumstancess (customs formalities, road conditions, traffic, landslides, force majeure, etc.), your expedition leader may have to adapt the program, if necessary, to ensure the smooth running of your trip. He remains the sole judge and the one who guarantees your safety. Activity times are given as an indication and may vary from one participant to another.
The itinerary for all our expedition programs, or the ascent program for our high-mountain expeditions, are given here as a guide only. They are flexible enough to adapt to weather conditions with a few contingency days. In any case, you should follow the recommendations of your guide, who may suggest that you cancel your expedition due to weather, safety or physical conditions.
It is important to remember that this is a truly unsupported expedition, and that anything can happen. Expeditions Unlimited, your expedition leader, your guide or our local teams can in no way be held responsible.
Any costs incurred as a result of a change in the expedition schedule (extra nights' accommodation, extra flights) will be borne by the participants and not by the organizers. "Contingency days" refer to the expedition in the strict sense of the term (base camp/base camp in the mountains, departure point/exit point on a traverse, etc.).
Any early return of the expedition or of certain members only (early success, abandonment, etc.), generating costs for accommodation, meals, changes to air tickets or other activities not provided for in this program, will be charged in full to the participants.
Trip notes
Guiding
PAKISTANIS AND NEPALESE
Logistical support during the first expeditions to Pakistan was provided exclusively by the Pakistanis themselves. Whether it is carrying to reach base camps or to set up high camps, local regulations have long prohibited the use of other nationalities. Over the years, the situation has evolved as have administrative constraints. The Nepalese have established themselves through their exceptional physical qualities at high altitude, to the point of having become indispensable, even in Pakistan. Today, the particularly enduring Balti porters work wonders on the long route which leads to the Baltoro base camps. Beyond that, we find the majority of our Nepalese teams, made up of “high altitude Sherpas”, themselves belonging to different ethnic groups, Sherpa of course, but also Tamang, Gurung, Rai, Bothe, etc. In Nepal, the monsoon prohibits any expedition to high altitude during the summer period. Coming to practice their skills in Pakistan is a perfect opportunity to compensate for these two months of forced inactivity imposed by the weather. This is also what allows these outstanding mountain people who are the Nepalese to stay in top shape. However, we also call on some Pakistani Himalayans accustomed to high altitude.
YOUR PRIVATE GUIDE
Key to your success on all our expeditions, we systematically use a ratio of one high-altitude sherpa per participant. He accompanies you during the key moments of the ascent and during the summit push. He is particularly experienced at high altitude. We select him for you. He generally speaks English. He may not be with you all the time during rotations between camps, as his role is also to manage the carrying operations to set up the camps.
A summit bonus is also arranged for your high-altitude sherpa, to be paid in cash on site after the ascent. This bonus is due from the moment you leave the last summit camp on your summit push attempt.
EXPEDITION LEADER
The expedition leader plays an important role in setting up the logistics of the upper camps and implementing the strategy required for success: rotation in the high altitude camps, acclimatization of each participant, study of weather reports to decide on the optimum moment to launch the summit push.
The expedition leader represents Expeditions Unlimited to the group, our partners and local authorities. Mainly based at base camp, he may accompany you to the high altitude camps to oversee the logistics of the expedition. He takes any necessary decisions. His authority is absolute and undeniable. You must respect his decisions, as well as those taken collectively.
From one to five participants, you have a local English-speaking expedition leader who has coordinated numerous expeditions over 8000 meters. He can be shared with other expeditions.
For groups of six participants, an experienced French expedition leader is assigned exclusively to your expedition.
LOCAL TEAM
For a project involving the ascent of a major Himalayan peak, our team is particularly well-staffed to deal as effectively as possible with the two key issues of an expedition: technical supervision and the carrying of equipment (food, collective and personal equipment). This is an important issue, as it directly affects the success of both parties. As a result of more than 10 years of joint reflection and work, our operation is fully optimized and the tasks entrusted to each person determine their own status. determine their own status.
Kitchen staff will be present at base camp.
There is a team of porters who help us set up base camp with all the equipment and cooking facilities. Beyond that, the team of high-altitude sherpas takes over. In particular, they help us to set up the high altitude camps and with the carrying from base camp.
Each participant is responsible for carrying his or her own personal belongings and high-altitude food. Our rucksack will weigh between 10 and 12 kg. Collective equipment is carried by the sherpa team.
And throughout the program, we will rely on other local skills as needed. Finally, we will have access to personalized weather forecast services and a specialized high-altitude doctor from Ifremmont (see above).
For unpredictable reasons at this stage, like adverse weather conditions, insufficient physical condition of participants, insufficient competencies of participants related to the intended activities, your guide may decide to adjust the intended program and/or activities. At all times, his decision will be final on all matters likely to affect the safety and well-being of the trip.
Technical difficulty
Mountaineering level: Not very difficult to fairly difficult(PD/ad)
In this program, the use of mountaineering equipment (crampons, harness, ice axe, ropes, etc.) is necessary, and the route tackled may involve minor difficulties, whether it be slightly steeper passages in a glacier run, the height of the wall, the commitment of the run or the continuity of effort. Of course, altitude makes everything more difficult. Steep or more arduous passages are all equipped with fixed ropes, so you need to be comfortable with a self-locking handle in all situations. This climb is aimed at participants with previous mountaineering experience and who have already completed climbs of this level.
This technical rating applies, of course, to normal weather conditions: difficulty can increase in poor conditions, with fresh snow for a rocky route, insufficient or poor-quality ice for glacier mountaineering, etc., and the situation can change radically if the weather is not too bad. Similarly, the situation changes radically, for the same technical level, with altitude, the weight of the rucksack, the lack of equipment for the route on site, the fatigue linked to the approach if it is long, the particularly hostile environment, and so on.
Our École de l'Aventure's three-to five-day mountaineering courses are designed for you, and are the perfect way to make sure you are at the right level.
Meeting point
We meet up in Islamabad and are welcomed at the airport by our local teams.
As participants in this expedition often come from different countries, we have not included the international flights in our price. However, we can reserve these flights for you. Do not hesitate to contact us. If you book your flights, we will give you all directions for your flight plan so that all participants land around the same time. You will need tickets that can be modified.
Accommodations
ISLAMABAD, SKARDU AND OTHER VILLAGES ON THE KKH
In a single room in a 3/4-star (***) hotel accommodation according to local standards.
BALTORO GLACIER TREKKING
In guesthouses for the first stages, in 3-person tents for 2 during the trek.
BASE CAMP
At base camp, we stay in individual tents.
As a base for several weeks, it needs to be as comfortable as possible, to enable us to recover properly on our return from the altitude camps. It should also enable us to cope with periods of bad weather in the best possible conditions. Each participant has his or her own individual tent with a comfortable mattress. A mess tent, heated during dinner (from 6 p.m. to 8 p.m only) and for early morning departures towards higher camps, is the main living area. Tables and chairs are permanently installed. We also have a shower tent and a toilet tent (solid waste is disposed of in drums).
HIGH ALTITUDE CAMPS
During the ascent, at the altitude camps, we have an altitude tent for 2 people, and even 3 people at the last camps.
Hygiene & dry cleaning
Toilets: The base camp is equipped with toilets and toilet paper. Make sure you wash your hands with a hydro-alcoholic gel (available from your personal pharmacy) after each use of the toilet. For the higher camps, we recommend that you take a bottle with you to urinate in at night, to avoid having to go outside.
Daily hygiene: a basin with soap and water is available at the entrance of the mess tent. Water for washing hands and face; do not drink.
Showers: hot water available (request from kitchen). Showers should only be taken on sunny days to avoid catching cold!
Laundry: (cold) water and basin to be requested from the kitchen. Bring biodegradable products only.
Meals
ISLAMABAD, SKARDU AND OTHER VILLAGES ON THE KKH
On arrival in Islamabad, a welcome dinner is offered on the first evening. Similarly, on your return from the expedition, a farewell meal is provided.
In the towns, there are many small (and large) restaurants where you can sample typical local cuisine. With the exception of Islamabad, breakfasts and evening meals are prepared by the kitchen staff or our cook and served in the mess tent. Depending on the profile of the stages (length of the day's walk and/or presence of water), midday snacks will be served hot or cold in the form of picnics.
BASE CAMP
HIGH ALTITUDE CAMPS
At altitude, you often have to force yourself to eat. The use of freeze-dried food is almost unavoidable. But such dishes, appetizing in the valley, quickly become a source of disgust in high altitude camps. During the preparation course, we bring a sample of lyophilized dishes for you to taste, to indicate your preferences, which we do our utmost to respect (depending on the stocks available at the time of final purchase). You can also bring along a few of your favorite dishes (if you have any)or small snacks that give you pleasure, or energy bars as the ones on offer locally are sufficient but basic, and so on. Be careful with the weight – we are talking about a kilo in all! For your comfort and the pleasure of tasting, we have included a few "delicacies" from France (savoury and sweet).
Each tent has a stove for melting snow (MSR Reactor type) and making water for freeze-dried food and hot drinks. The necessary gas cartridges are supplied.
HYDRATION
Take along tablets (such as Hydroclonazone, Micropur or others) to disinfect the water you put in your water bottle, depending on the source and on the advice of your guide. It is sometimes possible to buy purified water and fill your bottle without having to buy bottled water, which is not environmentally friendly.
Besides, glacier meltwater contains no mineral salts, which is partly compensated for by the soups and other meals you' will be eating. But if you only drink tea or coffee made from glacier meltwater, or just water in your water bottles, over a long expedition, you will hydrate less well, risk gastric problems and, ultimately, deficiencies that will tire the body. To counter this problem, it is a good idea to pack mineral tablets in your luggage at some point, to supplement your water bottle. Two or three tubes of ten tablets are all you need.
Transfers / Transport
All transfers are by private vehicle.
Group size
The group is composed of 1 to 10 participants maximum. The number of participants is deliberately limited to allow for greater immersion, to avoid embarrassing our hosts, and to develop freedom and flexibility. However, the maximum number may be exceeded if the last person to register wishes to travel with one or more other people. The services will not be modified, and the conditions of the trip will remain the same.
Equipment
COLLECTIVE EQUIPMENT
All logistical equipment is provided, including individual tents at base camp with mattresses, mess tent, shower tent and toilet tent, as well as all collective and individual cooking equipment. At altitude, tents, stoves with gas cartridges, ropes and anchors.
INDIVIDUAL EQUIPEMENT
Personal equipment is not provided. A full list is given later in this document. It will be refined with us during the preparation course and up to the moment of departure, depending on your questions.
High altitude sleeping bags, full-body down suits and/or good-quality down jackets are expensive items that you may not use frequently. We can rent you this specific equipment for the duration of the expedition. You must then return the equipment cleaned and in the condition in which it was given to you (deposit required). The rental price will be communicated to you on request. The cost of transport remains your responsibility, unless you pick it up at the agency in Lyon.
OXYGEN OR NO OXYGEN
For safety's sake, high altitude sherpas always use oxygen, even at reduced flow rates.
The vast majority of participants in all Broad Peak expeditions take oxygen from the last camp around 7100 meters. We therefore include in your package the oxygen supply from this last camp, that is two cylinders, one regulator and oxygen mask. Cylinders and equipment are transported to altitude camps by altitude sherpas.
If you wish to use additional oxygen before the last camp, you will need to ask your expedition leader and/or sherpa as soon as possible during your expedition, and additional cylinders will be charged extra. Oxygen cylinders not included in the package must be paid for on site.
That said, we are one of the few organizers to allow our participants to attempt the summit without supplemental oxygen. Our experience shows, however, that it is perfectly possible. The organization, and in particular the ratio of "1 high altitude sherpa to 1 participant", means that the pace of ascent can be slightly different and more personalized. So we can have participants in the same group who need oxygen and others who do not.
If you choose to attempt the climb without the use of oxygen beyond the last camp, then you need to talk to us as soon as possible to fine-tune your acclimatization. Your choice will depend on the agreement of your expedition leader and/or your sherpa, who will assess your fitness during the first rotations. Please note that if you choose not to use supplemental oxygen for your ascent, no refund will be given. For safety reasons, one oxygen cylinder per participant is provided at Camp 3, whatever your choice and whether you use it or not.
SECURITY AND COMMUNICATION
We have a minimum of one Iridium satellite phone for the group, which is used for logistical, weather and safety purposes only. Under certain conditions, participants may make use of it. For private use, please contact us.
The camps will be permanently linked by radio. Expedition leader, participants and high-altitude sherpas will also be able to use them.
The expedition will have a hyperbaric chamber at base camp, and a full pharmacy, though lighter, at the upper camps.
The group will be equipped with a Garmin Inreach beacon, enabling you to communicate freely and without restriction with your friends and family, wherever you may be on the mountain, as well as sending tracking and safety information. It is on this beacon that you will receive weather forecasts and that we will communicate together regularly.
At the same time, we will provide live coverage of the expedition for the general public, including a logbook and photographs, enabling you to share your adventure with your community. To this end, and if the base camp is not equipped with wifi or 4G, you can also use an IridiumGo system to send your photos. These systems are simple to use, but require a few tests before departure, which we will carry out together.
In addition, at the time of writing, all participants are free to bring any systems they have. We just need to be able to declare them to our contacts, so please let us know in advance.
Please note: in order to preserve the serenity of this expedition and the privacy of the participants, we ask you not to communicate with the general public during the expedition. You are, however, free to send information about yourself to your private sphere. By registering for this program, you accept this essential clause to protect the privacy of other participants in a project of this scale, where important issues of image, physical risk and financial considerations (sponsors, etc.) are at stake.
Our commitments to sustainable development
Our commitment to a better planet has been a reality since the beginning of our story but we always need to do more and better. Please find out more about our charter and our commitments in terms of sustainable development. We have drafted our charter and take action through six themes on which we act as concretely as possible, most often with you: social equity and cultural respect, preservation of water, waste management in expedition, protection of biodiversity, raise public awareness on these subjects and finally, the optimization and recovery of CO2 emissions.
Regarding carbon emissions, most of which are due to air travel, we calculated and communicated in 2018 on the carbon footprint of each of our programs, expressed in tonnes of CO2.
These calculations made us aware of the importance of the total carbon emissions generated by our activity. Also, we have committed in 2022 to a carbon reduction that we believe is unprecedented in the tourism industry, aiming to reduce the total emissions of our activity by 5% per year, taking 2019 as the reference year (3,430 tonnes of CO2). This commitment is in line with the trajectory of the Paris climate agreements of 2015, the current benchmark. Thus, in 2030, we will not entitle ourselves to exceed 2,160 tonnes of C02 and until then, each year, as soon as the carbon footprint budget is reached, we will stop taking any reservations for the current year. Thus, our maximum “carbon” budget for 2022 is 3,260 tonnes and for 2023, this budget will be reduced to 3,100 tonnes. And so on until 2030. To find out more about all of our calculations and our commitments in terms of reducing our carbon emissions.
In addition, since 2019, we have been encouraging you when you book for your journey to contribute with a donation to an independent NGO, among the two we have selected that share the commitments made in our charter. We matched the amount of this donation to this program's carbon footprint. Thus, the journey you are considering generates 3,06 tons of CO2, which corresponds to a 100% donation of €92 for an estimated value today of €30 per tonne of CO2. This donation remains of course optional and you can decide to give between nothing and 100% of this amount. Since 2019, including covid years of 2020 and 2021, we have been able to collect thanks to you nearly €7,000 for these associations.
Please do not hesitate to come back to us with any questions you might have regarding this carbon footprint mechanism, our other sustainable développement commitments or even to share with us your experience through a chat or a mail at contact@secret-planet.com.
Expedition leader
We rely on the most experienced high altitude expedition leaders. They are part of our close community and co-opt each other. They know each other well and respect each other.
For this expedition, the expedition leader has not yet been formally appointed, but should be shortly.
In addition to their exceptional expeditions experience, our expedition leaders have the know-how to optimize the expedition's chances of success, both in terms of group management and in terms of the pace at which the group builds up its strength and progresses in altitude, key elements in this type of expedition.
Departures and pricing
Please find below all dates and prices for this expedition. Prices are quoted "from" and may be adjusted notably according to the number of participants (see trip notes for details). Please note that dates and prices for years beyond 2024, when given, are for guidance only and are subject to change and readjustment to take account of current economic realities.
No date works for me!
I initiate a new datePrice includes
- Welcome dinner on arrival in Islamabad
- 3/4-star (***) hotel accommodation in Islamabad and Skardu with breakfast, single room for five nights
- Airport/hotel transfers in Islamabad
- Return transfert (flight or 4x4 depending on weather) Islamabad/Skardu
- Full-board accommodation during the trek Skardu/base camp/Skardu
- Base camp food supply
- Carrying of personal belongings during the trek Skardu/base camp/Skardu
- Equipment required for life at base camp: fully-equipped kitchen tent, mess tent for meals with heating and solar lighting, toilet tent, shower tent, table and chairs.
- A cook and his assistant at base camp
- At base camp, one tent per person, with mattress, pillow and solar lamp
- High-altitude tents, high-altitude food, stoves and fuel
- Insurance for Pakistani porters, altitude sherpas (evacuation, hospitalization, medical expenses, life insurance), for the cook and his helpers
- Experienced French mountain guide from 6 participants. For less than 6 participants, the expedition leader is local, and his mission can be carried out by one of the most experienced altitude guides (see below)
- Local mountain guide (sirdar) with extensive experience in managing local teams
- Logistics manager and local manager at base camp, highly experienced guide and instructor
- 1 local altitude guide for every 1 participant, he carries food and equipment to the high- altitude camps and supports you on the final ascent
- 2 oxygen cylinders with mask and regulator per participant
- 1 oxygen cylinder with mask and regulator per altitude local guide
- Collective equipment required for ascent (fixed ropes, moorings, etc.)
- Equipment allowance, fees, tent and food for cook and helpers
- 1 satellite telephone at advanced base camp (for rescue purposes only)
- 1 walkie-talkie for each rope party (participant and 1 altitude guide )
- Solar panels at base camp for charging small electronic equipment (such as cell phones and cameras). Not sufficient to charge computers
- Taxes and climbing permit, rope fixing fee, all government environmental taxes and garbage deposit
- Personalized weather forecast services
- Medical follow-up by Ifremmont during the expedition (see above)
- Preparation courses (practical, medical)
- Live coverage of the expedition for your community (supply of InReach beacon, IridiumGo and subscriptions, LivExplorer service configuration)
Price does not include
- International flights
- Consular fees (visa)
- Any customs taxes upon arrival in Pakistan
- Import taxes, if any, for satellite phones, professional communications equipment and commercial film shooting
- Any additional hotel nights in Islamabad (over 5 nights)
- Any helicopter transfers
- Meals in Islamabad and Skardu other than breakfasts, welcome meal and farewell meal
- Expenses related to the early return of the expedition or of certain members only (early success, abandonment, etc.), generating costs for accommodation, meals, changes to air tickets or other activities not provided for in this program
- Expenses related to a shift in the expedition schedule (extra nights' accommodation and meals, additional airfares)
- US$1,500 summit bonus for your altitude guide, to be paid on site after the ascent (whether the summit is reached or not)
- Tips for the local team, 500 US$/participant
- Any personal communications by satellite phone (to be paid locally)
- Personal equipment, including individual high-altitude gear
- Rental of personal high-altitude equipment, subject to availability
- Any additional oxygen cylinders (approx. US$600, to be paid locally, subject to availability)
- Pre-acclimatization protocol developed with Ifremmont and physical and/or mental preparation with a specialist Sport Altitude coach as described above
- Drinks and personal expenses (sightseeing, cabs, souvenirs, dry-cleaning, etc.)
- Travel and expedition insurance (assistance, evacuation and repatriation)
Your custom expedition
We put our expertise, our knowledge of the terrain, our creativity, our experience, the quality of our guides and the reliability of our partners at your service to build your custom expedition. We can also personalize an expedition to your wishes as soon as you form a "closed" group, whatever the number of participants.
This means that, unless you authorize us to do otherwise, no outside participants join you, and we can personalize your expedition by adapting it to your own pace, with the program extensions you desire, a higher level of comfort, certain activities, other encounters, etc.
Every expedition of this type is subject to a specific quotation. To get in touch with us now, please fill in the short questionnaire below. One of our experts will get back to you to refine your request and make you a proposal.
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