The third most accessible summit in the Snow Leopard challenge
Highlights
- The most northerly of the 7000ers
- Ascent via the north face, steeper but less exposed to objective hazards
- One of the most beautiful mountains on earth
- The most interesting of the Snow Leopard Challenge in terms of technical difficulties
- H24 personalized weather forecast services and medical hotline
- Preparation course, live monitoring of the expedition
At "just" 7010 metres, Khan Tengri could be the easiest of the Snow Leopard Challenge. But its modest altitude is more than made up for by the sheer number of difficulties involved in its ascent. The "Little K2", as it is known to mountaineers who know the mountain well. The north face is steeper but much less exposed to objective risks than the south face, making it a long and safe route. It requires us to climb to the summit of Chapaev, before descending to the west saddle where we return to the normal route. Access to the base camp is now much easier thanks to helicopter flights. The major obstacle remains the weather. The proximity of Siberia on one side and the Taklamakan desert on the other generates violent, cold winds.
Overview
AsCENT OF Khan Tengri
Khan Tengri is the most northerly of all the 7000-meter peaks on the planet. It was first climbed in 1931 by a Ukrainian mountaineer, Michael Pogrebetskiy. One of the main difficulties at the time was climbing up the immense Inyltchek glacier (60 km), which defended access to the highest mountains in the Tien Shan.
The "normal route" follows the southern slope up to the west saddle (5900 m), the lowest point between the Khan Tengri and its close neighbour, the Chapaev (6126 m). It then climbs the long west ridge, which is mostly marble. But the vast glacier on the south face is a real avalanche trap, which is why we will be taking the slightly more challenging north face.
BIRTH OF THE "SNOW LEOPARD"
In the 1960s, the USSR was at the height of its glory. But the borders were hermetic and the mountaineers of the Soviet Union expressed their (immense) talent on the many summits that rose from one end of the former Empire of the Tsars to the other. The Himalayas are off-limits to them. But their playground was gigantic: the Caucasus, Pamir Alay, Fan(skyes) mountains, Great Pamir, Tien Shan, Kamtchatka... On 12 October 1967, to encourage and reward the best in the race to the top, the Bureau of the Central Council of Sports Societies and Organisations of the USSR decided to award a prize to those who managed to climb the five highest Soviet summits:
- Khan Tengri Peak – 7010 meters on the Kyrgyzstan-Kazakhstan border
- Korjenevskaya Peak – 7105 meters in Tajikistan
- Lenin Peak – 7134 meters on the Tajikistan-Kyrgyzstan border
- Victory Peak – 7439 meters in Kyrgyzstan
- Communism Peak– 7495 meters in Tajikistan
The reward: to become a "Snow Leopard", the almost mythical animal that haunts the mountains of Central Asia. Many will be lining up to win the prestigious Snow Leopard medal. But almost exclusively climbers from beyond the Iron Curtain, from the Soviet Union. It was not until 1985 that the first two Westerners shared this immense privilege. Two Americans, followed by a Japanese climber in 1989. Finally, in 1997, a French couple, Brigitte and Pierre Meloni, won the prestigious medal. They were the third couple to win a medal. In 2011, Serge Hardy will be the fifth and last Frenchman to win the title. Who will be next?
Five legendary peaks, all in the former USSR
The five peaks of the Snow Leopard Challenge, in ascending order of difficulty:
- Ibn Sina Peak (formerly Lenin Peak) – 7134 meters on the Tajikistan-Kyrgyzstan border
- Ozodi Peak (formerly Korjenevskaya) – 7105 meters in Tajikistan
- Ismail Somoni Peak (former Communism Peak) – 7495 meters in Tajikistan
- Khan Tengri Peak – 7010 meters on the Kyrgyzstan-Kazakhstan border (the geological altitude is 6995 m, but due to its thick shell of ice at the summit, the official altitude is 7010 m)
- Jengish Chokosu Peak (formerly Victory Peak, formerly Pobeda Peak) – 7439 meters in Kyrgyzstan
Despite its modest altitude, the Khan Tengri, climbed from its northern slope, is a major objective. Four high-altitude camps are required. The first three are spread out along the northern spur of Chapaev Peak (6126 m), while the last is located on the snowy saddle at the foot of the western ridge. This ridge, made up of marble boulders, requires mixed climbing, and the last day involves a difference in altitude of just over a thousand meters between the last camp and the summit.
Expeditions Unlimited takes on the Snow Leopard challenge with Serge Bazin
Well-known to French-speaking mountaineers, Serge Bazin is a mountain guide (see his biography below). He has been guiding participants on high-altitude summits for many years. We have built up a strong relationship with him. He was our advisor on our first expedition to Manaslu (8163 m), and guided our last expedition to Makalu (8481 m).
He regularly and successfully guided our participants to Lenin Peak at 7134 meters and guided them to the top of the Ozodi Peak (formerly Korjenevskaya) in 2023 .
We are currently forming a close-knit group on these five climbs, the next three of which are massive. Either technically difficult, with the Khan Tengri via the north ridge, chosen because it is less exposed to objective dangers, or in terms of commitment at very high altitude, with the Ismoil Somoni Peak and its colossal plateau at 7000 meters and finally, in terms of objective risks, with the famous Victory Peak or Pobeda.
Click here to see the animated itinerary for the ascent of Khan Tengri to 7010 meters
Itinerary
Day 0
EXPEDITION SUMMARY PROGRAM
- Days 1 & 2: Arrival in Bishkek
- Day 3: Road transfer to Karkara (2200 m)
- Day 4: Helicopter flight from Karkara to base camp (4000 m)
- Day 5 & 6: Rest days
- Day 7: Climb to Khan Tengri Camp 1 (4200 m)
- Day 8: Climb to Khan Tengri Camp 2 (5500 m)
- Day 9: Portage to Camp 3 (Chapaev Peak – 6100 m) – descent to base camp
- Day 10 & 11: Rest days at base camp
- Day 12: Climb to Camp 1
- Day 13: Climb to Camp 2
- Day 14: Climb to Camp 3 (6100 m)
- Day 15: Access to Camp 4 (5900 m)
- Day 16: Climb Khan Tengri and descend to Camp 3
- Day 17: Descent to base camp
- Days 18 to 25: Contingency days
- Day 26: Helicopter flight from base camp to Karkara – transfer to Bishkek
- Days 27 & 28: Return flight to Europe
expedition detailed program
Days 1 &2: Paris – Bishkek
Day 1
We land at Bishkek airport, the capital of Kyrgyzstan, where we are met by our partners. Transfer to the hotel for a few hours' rest to recover from the fatigue of the journey.
Day 3: Bishkek – Karkara
Day 3
We head east towards the immense Lake Issykul, a veritable inland sea. The shores of the lake have been transformed into a "Riviera" where the inhabitants of Kyrgyzstan and even more so those of neighbouring Kazakhstan come to holiday during the summer months. Summer atmosphere guaranteed! Then we enter the area of hills and steppes that make up the foothills of the Tien Shan. After 470 kilometers, we reach Karkara, a magnificent meadow with many Kyrgyz yurts. This is a comfortable camp. Meals are served in a large yurt that will be used as a mess tent. The camp also has a bar, a sauna (for a fee), showers, a few shops and you can even hire mountain bikes.
Day 4: Karkara – Inyltchek North Base Camp
Day 4
A magnificent flight in the imposing MI 8 helicopter, which takes us to the base camp on the northern slope of Khan Tengri, on the northern branch of the Inyltchek glacier, which is almost fifty kilometers long. During the flight, the view of the Tien Shan peaks is absolutely breathtaking. Arrival at the international base camp. Situated at an altitude of 4000 meters, the base camp has a large heated mess tent, showers and a sauna, making it rather welcoming. But situated on the glacier, in the shadow of the imposing north face of Khan Tengri, the conditions remain harsh.
Days 5 & 6: Rest days
Day 5
Quiet days at base camp, to give our bodies time to acclimatize. We take advantage of this time to get to know the other climbers of all nationalities present at the base camp. The view of the surrounding mountains is majestic, but all our attention is focused on the three thousand meter north face of Khan Tengri. The ascent to the summit of Chapaev Peak (6150 m) remains in the shade for a long time, while the marble pyramid at the top gleams in the sunlight.
Day 7: Climb to Camp 1 of Khan Tengri
Day 7
First day testing our mettle at altitude. After an hour on the glacier, we reached the first snow slopes at the foot of the Chapaev north face. There are a number of brackets to cross, but footbridges allow us to cross them in dry conditions. No particular difficulty, depending on the thickness of the snow cover... and how many people doing the track. Average gradient 30° for 400 meters, then rising to 45° at the end. Risk of avalanches in the event of heavy snowfall. A short snow ridge leads to Camp 1 at around 4600 meters, located on boulders. Another camp is possible 100 meters further up if the area is overcrowded.
Day 8: Climb to Camp 2 of Khan Tengri
Day 8
We follow the ridge, skirting a few seracs. Camp 2 is at around 5500 meters.
Day 9: Climb to Camp 3 of Khan Tengri and descent to Base Camp
Day 9
The climb continues along the ridge to reach Chapaev Peak. Camp 3 at 6100 meters. This day gives us a chance to drop off some equipment at altitude before heading back down to base camp.
Days 10 & 11: Rest days at Base Camp
Day 10
Essential days to recover from the effort of the previous days.
Days 12 to 16: Ascent of Khan Tengri
Day 12
We gradually climb back up, spending the night at Camp 1, Camp 2 and Camp 3.
From Camp 3 to Camp 4
From the summit of Chapaev Peak, progress below the ridge that separates it from the base of the summit pyramid of Khan Tengri. Overnight in tents or an ice cave. 100 meters to descend between Camp 3 and Camp 4 (5900 m), which will have to be climbed again on the way back.
From Camp 4 to the summit
From Camp 4 we continue to follow the west ridge along the edge of the face. We make our best possible progress between the rock bars and couloirs that line the face. The most exposed passages are equipped with fixed ropes, mainly for the descent. This ridge can be compared to the Hörnli ridge on the Cervin. Broken crags, short rocky projections and snow couloirs of varying steepness (up to 50°). You come up against the upper bastion. The route leads off to the right, joining a couloir that is clearly visible from Camp 4. Access to the couloir is defended by a 15-meter vertical marble rock bar (free climbing would be a V). The fixed rope is welcome. We enter the 40° couloir and climb it for 100 meters. A final rocky ledge is skirted to the right and leads to a long snow slope that leads to the summit. After leaving the couloir, it takes another good hour to reach the summit. Because of the crevasses running through the summit ice cap, the cross is not at the summit but slightly below. Do not venture to the highest point, which the Russians say is dangerous. A gigantic panorama that has nothing to envy the Karakoram or the Himalayas.
Return to Camp 4 (5900 m)
Day 17: Descent to Base Camp
Day 17
An arduous ascent to Chapaev Peak before climbing the fixed ropes that plunge down to the base camp.
Days 18 to 25: Contingency days
Day 18
A contingency day to deal with any unforeseen events.
Days 26: Base Camp – Karkara – Bishkek
Day 26
Return helicopter flight to Karkara and direct transfer to Bishkek.
Days 27 & 28: Bishkek – Paris
Day 27
Depending on your flight schedule, transfer to the airport and flight to Paris.
END OF EXPEDITION
For reasons that cannot be foreseen at this stage, such as unpredictable weather, the physical fitness or lack of fitness of participants or other circumstancess (customs formalities, road conditions, traffic, landslides, force majeure, etc.), your expedition leader may have to adapt the program, if necessary, to ensure the smooth running of your trip. He remains the sole judge and the one who guarantees your safety. Activity times are given as an indication and may vary from one participant to another.
The itinerary for all our expedition programs, or the ascent program for our high-mountain expeditions, are given here as a guide only. They are flexible enough to adapt to weather conditions with a few contingency days. In any case, you should follow the recommendations of your guide, who may suggest that you cancel your expedition due to weather, safety or physical conditions.
It is important to remember that this is a truly unsupported expedition, and that anything can happen. Expeditions Unlimited, your expedition leader, your guide or our local teams can in no way be held responsible.
Any costs incurred as a result of a change in the expedition schedule (extra nights' accommodation, extra flights) will be borne by the participants and not by the organizers. "Contingency days" refer to the expedition in the strict sense of the term (base camp/base camp in the mountains, departure point/exit point on a traverse, etc.).
Any early return of the expedition or of certain members only (early success, abandonment, etc.), generating costs for accommodation, meals, changes to air tickets or other activities not provided for in this program, will be charged in full to the participants.
Trip notes
Guiding
French high-mountain guide Serge Bazin.
For unpredictable reasons at this stage, like adverse weather conditions, insufficient physical condition of participants, insufficient competencies of participants related to the intended activities, your guide may decide to adjust the intended program and/or activities. At all times, his decision will be final on all matters likely to affect the safety and well-being of the trip.
Difficulty level
Level rated: difficult
This program is aimed at participants in good physical shape, with a significant sport practice, endurance in particular, holding a strong mental to face difficulties that are unforeseen by nature.
Khan Tengri is rated as "difficult" because of the conditions you will be facing: very high altitude, very low temperatures, sometimes bad weather and strong winds.
To be as self-sufficient as possible, you need to have significant mountaineering experience and be actively involved in hiking, trekking or mountaineering. You need to be able to progress in a roped party, either on your own or roped up with a guide, and you need to know how to handle ropes.
For a relatively long period of time, the body will be subjected to considerable physical effort in a difficult environment, with the added handicap of high altitude. Rigorous training is obviously necessary, focusing on developing endurance and resistance: running, cycling, swimming, ski touring and, of course, mountaineering. This training needs to be regular and begins at least 6 to 8 months before the start of the expedition.
Team spirit is also important. Each participant is responsible for applying safety rules, looking after his or her own equipment and maintenance, setting up the camp and preparing meals. As always in this type of project, the key to success is teamwork and team spirit.
During the expedition, we carry a few personal items weighing no more than 7/8 kilos (sleeping bag, food, stove and gas, etc.). The high-altitude camps are equipped, so we do not have to "push" the tents.
For those participants who do not wish to carry anything, it is possible to book porters on site, subject to availability. This cost is not included in our package. The cost is US$8/kg between Camp 1 and Camp 2 and US$10/kg between Camp 2 and Camp 3, to be paid locally. That said, the carrying culture in this part of the world is very different from that in the Himalayas, for example, and we cannot book these porters in advance. Also, carrying is not guaranteed.
Participation in the preparation course with your expedition leader, whose date will be specified later, is highly recommended. In addition, mountaineering preparation courses at our School of Adventure can be a serious asset, both to gain confidence and autonomy.
To register for this expedition, you will be asked to provide an expedition (mountain climb list)/trek/athlete CV. A medical certificate stating that you are not at risk of climbing at high altitude is also required.
You benefit, free of charge and for the duration of your expedition, from membership in the 24/7 high altitude medical service set up with our partner Ifremmont, of which we are partners. See below.
Technical difficulty
The mountaineering level is Difficult (D). The ascent along the northern spur leading to Chapaev requires you to follow a long 35°/45° sloping snow ridge with a few steeper projections. Once you reach the top of the Chapaev Peak, you have to descend a hundred meters or so to reach the west saddle and its Camp 4. It takes a long time to climb these 100 meters on the way back. The summit west ridge is a mixture of rock and snow. The climb from Camp 4 to the summit is 1050 meters, much of it equipped with fixed ropes to make the descent easier. In addition to these technical difficulties, there is the cold and wind, and a real instability in the weather. The base camp, located on the Inylchek Glacier, is always very cold. All in all, this ascent can be compared to climbing an eight-thousand meter peak.
Compagnies aériennes internationales
For international transport from Paris to Bishkek on scheduled economy class flights with Aeroflot, Air Astana and Turkish Airlines.
Important: airlines sometimes change their departure/arrival times: morning instead of evening and vice versa. It is therefore possible that the first and last days of the program may be modified according to the airline rotations at the time.
Departures from Lyon or another provincial city are possible, depending on the airline, as are departures from Geneva or Brussels, sometimes at an additional cost. Please contact us for further information.
As far as domestic flights are concerned, there is only one possible route, between Osh and Bishkek, and flights are subject to weather conditions and may be cancelled or postponed.
Accommodations
Hotels in Bishkek: 3-star local standard in a double room with breakfast. Single rooms are available at extra cost. In Karkara, double tents with mattresses.
The base camp is located on the northern branch of the Inylchek glacier. It is always cold there. We are accommodated in two-person tents, with wooden supports to insulate us from the ground and a mattress. Electricity is provided at the base camp, as are hot showers. There is a sauna to help us recover from our strenuous efforts. Wifi is available, but at a charge.
A large heated mess tent houses the expeditions of the different nationalities who share the base camp.
Meals
In Bishkek, only breakfast is included. Depending on the flight plan, you should therefore plan to pay for your meals on the spot, which gives you a little freedom to choose your food.
At base camp, meals are prepared by our local team using local produce and served in the mess tent.
For the higher camps, you will be able to compose your own menus in the form of freeze-dried rations. These rations contain coffee and tea, cereals, mashed potatoes, soup, broths, Chinese noodles, freeze-dried dishes, snacks, etc.
At altitude, you often have to force yourself to eat. Freeze-dried food is almost unavoidable. But such dishes, appetising in the valley, quickly become nauseating in the high altitude camps. You can bring some of your favourite freeze-dried dishes, if you have them, or small snacks that you enjoy (cold meats, cheese, etc.), or energy bars, as the ones on offer locally are sufficient but basic, etc. Be careful with the weight - we are talking about a kilo in all!
HYDRATION
Take along tablets (such as Hydroclonazone, Micropur or others) to disinfect the water you put in your water bottle, depending on the source and on the advice of your guide. It is sometimes possible to buy purified water and fill your bottle without having to buy bottled water. You can also buy "mineral" water in the towns (not included in the price), but as you know, it has a poor environmental performance. So we do not recommend it.
Besides, glacier meltwater contains no mineral salts, which is partly compensated for by the soups and other meals you' will be eating. But if you only drink tea or coffee made from glacier meltwater, or just water in your water bottles, over a long expedition, you will hydrate less well, risk gastric problems and, ultimately, deficiencies that will tire the body. To counter this problem, it is a good idea to pack mineral tablets in your luggage at some point, to supplement your water bottle. Two or three tubes of ten tablets are all you need.
Transfers / Transport
On the outward journey, transport between Bishkek and the Karkara base camp is provided by private minibus.
By MI-8 helicopter from Karkara to the base camp and back.
Group size
The group is composed of 4 to 6 participants maximum. The number of participants is deliberately limited to allow for greater immersion, to avoid embarrassing our hosts, and to develop freedom and flexibility. However, the maximum number may be exceeded if the last person to register wishes to travel with one or more other people. The services will not be modified, and the conditions of the trip will remain the same.
Equipment
Personal equipment is not provided. A full list is given later in this document. It will be refined with the expedition leader during the preparation days and up to the moment of departure, depending on your questions.
All logistical equipment is provided, including high altitude tents and all collective and individual cooking equipment. Your guide will have a satellite telephone to keep in touch with the outside world, as well as communication and safety equipment, a geolocation beacon, etc. The expedition has a hyperbaric chamber, and a collective pharmacy is available, although it does not replace the compulsory individual pharmacy, a list of which will be provided by Ifremmont.
COMMUNICATIONS
The Iridium satellite phone is used for logistical, weather and safety purposes only. Under certain conditions, participants will be able to use this telephone. For these private uses, please contact us.
At the time of writing, all participants are free to bring any systems they may have. We will just need to be able to declare them to our contacts, so please let us know in advance.
Please note: in order to preserve the serenity of this expedition and the privacy of the participants, we ask you not to communicate with the general public during the expedition. You are, however, free to send information about yourself to your private sphere. By registering for this program, you accept this essential clause to protect the privacy of other participants in a project of this scale, where important issues of image, physical risk and financial considerations (sponsors, etc.) are at stake.
Our commitments to sustainable development
Our commitment to a better planet has been a reality since the beginning of our story but we always need to do more and better. Please find out more about our charter and our commitments in terms of sustainable development. We have drafted our charter and take action through six themes on which we act as concretely as possible, most often with you: social equity and cultural respect, preservation of water, waste management in expedition, protection of biodiversity, raise public awareness on these subjects and finally, the optimization and recovery of CO2 emissions.
Regarding carbon emissions, most of which are due to air travel, we calculated and communicated in 2018 on the carbon footprint of each of our programs, expressed in tonnes of CO2.
These calculations made us aware of the importance of the total carbon emissions generated by our activity. Also, we have committed in 2022 to a carbon reduction that we believe is unprecedented in the tourism industry, aiming to reduce the total emissions of our activity by 5% per year, taking 2019 as the reference year (3,430 tonnes of CO2). This commitment is in line with the trajectory of the Paris climate agreements of 2015, the current benchmark. Thus, in 2030, we commit ourselves not to exceed 2,160 tonnes of C02. Thus, our maximum “carbon” budget for 2024 is 2,950 tonnes and for 2025, this budget will be reduced to 2,800 tonnes. And so on until 2030. To find out more about all of our calculations and our commitments in terms of reducing our carbon emissions.
In addition, since 2019, we have been encouraging you when you book for your journey to contribute with a donation to an independent NGO, among the two we have selected that share the commitments made in our charter. We matched the amount of this donation to this program's carbon footprint. Thus, the journey you are considering generates 5,32 tons of CO2, which corresponds to a 100% donation of €160 for an estimated value today of €30 per tonne of CO2. This donation remains of course optional and you can decide to give between nothing and 100% of this amount. Since 2019, including covid years of 2020 and 2021, we have been able to collect thanks to you nearly €7,000 for these associations.
Please do not hesitate to come back to us with any questions you might have regarding this carbon footprint mechanism, our other sustainable développement commitments or even to share with us your experience through a chat or a mail at contact@secret-planet.com.
Serge Bazin, mountain guide
Originally from Toulon, Serge Bazin did his military service with the Alpine hunters in Bourg-Saint-Maurice. Trained as a topographer and surveyor, he moved to Chamonix in 1985. Together with a team of surveyors, they regularly measure the summit of Mont Blanc, which they climb on foot or skis. In 2021, they will celebrate their twentieth measurement!
For over 20 years, he has been concentrating on his job as a mountain guide, and has travelled all over the world, tackling rare or well-known summits, with participants he guides or with friends. He gives training courses, and prefers self-guided alpine-style expeditions in snow, ice, rock or mixed terrain. He has climbed several "big walls" (El Capitan eight times in Yosemite, USA).
He has been passionate about the Himalayas, and Nepal in particular, for 30 years, and returns there every year, either alone or with participants. Treks, traverses, ascents to 6000, 7000, 8000... His experience makes him one of France's most experienced high-altitude guides.
- Serge has guided participants to the summits of three eight-thousanders: Makalu (8475 m), Manaslu (8163 m) and Cho Oyu (8201 m).
In addition to numerous treks and passes approaching 6000 meters, his list of Asian climbs includes the following peaks, usually with participants he guided, and sometimes several times :
- Summits over 7000 meters: Himlung Himal (7127 m), Lhakpa Ri (7043 m), Korjenevskaya Peak (Tajikistan, 7105 m) and Lenin Peak (Kyrgyzstan, 7134 m), which he has climbed four or five times. He has also attempted the rare Nepalese peaks of Makalu 2 (7650 m – stop at 7500), Langtang Lirung (7200 m – stop at 7000), Ratna Chuli (7127 m– stop at 7000) and Gyanjing Kang (7200 m – stop at 6600 m) with other participants;
- Summits over 6000 meters: Ama Dablam (6856 m), Mera Peak (6470 m), Island Peak (6187 m), Lobuche Peak (6100 m), Pacharmo (6273 m), central Kongde Ri (6187 m), Kyajo Ri (6186 m), Daulhagiri VI – Ongde (6500 m), Chulu West (6419 m), Chulu East (6584 m), Thorung Peak (6100 m), Dhampus Peak (6012 m).
Since 1993, Serge has been offering children special "child walkers" trekking tours, which have seen some forty 8–18 year-olds trekking Nepal with him over the years. Some of them have since become guides...
Finally, he is a guide-trainer for ANENA - Association Nationale Etude Neige et Avalanches, a Grenoble-based training and information institute founded in 1971 by Louis Néel, winner of the Nobel Prize for physics.
In short, Serge has the experience and teaching know-how to optimize your expedition's chances of success, both technically and in terms of group management, both in terms of the pace at which the group builds up its strength and in terms of its progress, which are key elements in this type of expedition.
Departures and pricing
Please find below all dates and prices for this expedition. Prices are quoted "from" and may be adjusted notably according to the number of participants (see trip notes for details). Please note that dates and prices for years beyond 2024, when given, are for guidance only and are subject to change and readjustment to take account of current economic realities.
No date works for me!
I initiate a new datePrice includes
- Overnight accommodation in a 3-star hotel (local standards) in a double room in Bishkek and Karkara, including breakfast for two nights
- Airport/hotel transfers and transfers to base camp in private vehicle
- Helicopter flights to/from base camp
- Baggage allowance of 20 kilos in checked baggage and 8 kilos in the cabin for each participant on the domestic flight Bishkek/Osh
- Full-board accommodation at base camp and Camp 1
- Carrying allowance of 28 kilos/participant between base camp and Camp 1 (count US$3/additional kilo to be paid locally)
- Equipment required for life at base camp and Camp 1: fully-equipped kitchen tent, mess tent for meals with heating, toilet tent, table and chairs.
- A cook and his assistant at base camp and Camp 1
- At base camp and Camp 1: one tent per person with mattresses
- Kitchen and mess tents at base camp and Camp 1
- High altitude tents, high altitude food, stoves and fuel
- Experienced French UIAGM mountain guide
- Experienced local mountain guide exclusively for the summit push, to allow flexibility in managing the group during the summit push
- Collective equipment required for the ascent (fixed ropes, moorings)
- Walkie-talkies for communication between camps
- Satellite telephone (for weather and safety purposes only)
- Electricity at base camp, generator at Camp 1
- Taxes and climbing permits, all government environmental taxes
- Personalized experienced weather forecast services
- Practical preparation course with the expedition leader
- Medical follow-up by Ifremmont during the expedition (see above)
- Live coverage of the expedition for your community (supply of InReach beacon, IridiumGo and subscriptions, LivExplorer service configuration)
Price does not include
- International return flights to Bishkek
- Consular fees (visa)
- Any customs duties on arrival in Kyrgyzstan
- Any taxes for professional communication equipment and commercial filming
- Any additional hotel nights in Kyrghystan (more than 2 nights)
- Porters between high altitude camps (8 US$ / kilo between Camp 1 and Camp 2 and 10 US$ / kilo between Camp 2 and Camp 3, to be booked and paid for on site)
- Expenses related to a change in the expedition timetable (additional nights' accommodation, additional flights)
- Costs associated with the early return of the expedition or of certain members only (early success, abandonment, etc.), generating costs for accommodation, meals, changes to air tickets or other activities not included in this program
- Meals in Bishkek other than breakfasts
- Any personal communications by satellite telephone (to be paid locally)
- Pre-acclimatization protocol developed with Ifremmont and Sport Altitude ( personalization, advice, follow-up, equipment) as described above
- Personal equipment, including high mountain gear
- Drinks and all personal expenses (personal visits, taxis, souvenirs, dry cleaning, etc.)
- Wifi at base camp and Camp 1 (US$3 at base camp, US$5 at Camp 1)
- Travel and expedition insurance (assistance, evacuation and repatriation)
- Tips to the accompanying team
Your custom expedition
We put our expertise, our knowledge of the terrain, our creativity, our experience, the quality of our guides and the reliability of our partners at your service to build your custom expedition. We can also personalize an expedition to your wishes as soon as you form a "closed" group, whatever the number of participants.
This means that, unless you authorize us to do otherwise, no outside participants join you, and we can personalize your expedition by adapting it to your own pace, with the program extensions you desire, a higher level of comfort, certain activities, other encounters, etc.
Every expedition of this type is subject to a specific quotation. To get in touch with us now, please fill in the short questionnaire below. One of our experts will get back to you to refine your request and make you a proposal.
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