Climb Aconcagua at 6962 meters traverse route in Argentina

Flight to Mendoza via Buenos Aires or Santiago de Chile.

We are met at Mendoza airport by our correspondent. Transfer to the city and check into the hotel. Initial contact with the guide to confirm the following day's schedule. We take advantage of the remaining free time to stroll through the lively, shady streets and squares. And on our first evening in Argentina, we have to try the legendary bife de chorizo.

Appointment with the guide, who gives us our precious permit, explains how the trip will work and checks each participant's equipment. This is also the time to make final purchases or rent equipment. Afternoon and evening free to wander around Mendoza.

We take the road through the town and then the vineyards before reaching Potrerillos and its artificial lake (leisure centre) on the Rio Mendoza, then the last village of Uspallata. We then enter the valley of the Rio Horcones, which leads to the Chilean border. We arrive at the small station of Penitentes. We can drop off any luggage we do not need for the climb at our representative's warehouse. Once the mules are loaded, a final short 15-minute transfer takes us to Punta de Vacas (2400 m), the starting point of the trail to the base camp. The park rangers check our permits. The approach hike begins, on a gently sloping trail that leads to Pampa de Leñas (2950 m), the first camp in the long Vacas valley. 

The main aim of the day is acclimatization. We made slow progress through the very long Vacas valley. The Aconcagua came into view at the last moment as we reached the Casa de Piedra Camp. The east face, with its characteristic Polish Glacier, comes into view little by little.

We leave the Valle de Vacas and head due west into the Valle de Relinchos.  The climb is tougher than on previous days, and you get short of breath. But the view of the Aconcagua is soaring, and we have to stop to enjoy the spectacle. We arrive in the afternoon at Plaza Argentina (4190 m), where our comfortable base camp is located.

We take a day off to acclimatize. It is not a day to do nothing, it is a day spent getting comfortable, sorting out our belongings, wandering around our little environment and socializing.

We make our first turn towards Camp 1, and the path gradually climbs up through scree. This is the hardest part of the climb.We cross the lower part of an ancient glacier that has now disappeared and covered the south-east face of the mountain.Camp 1 lies at the foot of steep scree slopes leading to Camp 2.

Another essential rest day to acclimatize.

After this ideal rest to acclimatize at base camp, we are back on our way towards the east face of Aconcagua. The path climbs steadily through scree. This is the hardest part of the climb. We cross the lower part of an ancient glacier that once covered the south-east face of the mountain and has now disappeared. Camp 1 lies at the foot of steep scree slopes leading to Camp 2.

We carry our gear to Camp 2 (also known as Guanacos) at 5486 meters, at the foot of the east face. Again today, the progress is steep amidst scree. Fortunately, repeated expeditions over the years have improved the route, making progress easier. As we gain altitude, we discover the summit of the Ramada mountain range to the north, Pic Mercedario (6720 m). After a short rest to eat at the camp, we head back down to acclimatize at Camp 1. 

We are back on the same route as the day before, this time staying overnight at Camp 2. The altitude makes it difficult to move around. We have to do everything slowly so as not to run out of breath.

Another day's rest, essential for acclimatization. 

We begin the long traverse that will take us to Colera, the last camp before the summit.  We cross the frontal moraine of the Polish Glacier, climbed for the first time in 1954 by 4 climbers from the other side of the Iron Curtain. A never-ending ascent brings us close to a col battered by violent winds from the Pacific. Depending on the year, there are still a few névés to cross, in which the wind has carved out the famous ice penitents. Fifty centimeters to sometimes a meter high, they make progress uncomfortable. Fortunately, the arrival at our equipped camp at Colera (5970 m) rewards us for our long day's effort. Dinner at an altitude of almost six thousand meters, probably the highest meal many of us have ever had. 

We set off early to make the most of the (long) day. We take a very light rucksack (water, food, a few items of clothing and a camera). The path is not easy, the rock and earth are frozen. We reached the "Independencia" site at 6300 meters, where we began a long traverse above the Gran Arracareo. We soon pass the Portosuelo del Viento rocks, a veritable wind tunnel for testing aerodynamics, and arrive at the entrance to the Canaleta at around 6600 meters. The most demanding part begins: the slope is steep, the rocks and boulders are like icebergs on the sea, and we have to concentrate to make headway. It's on this section that, on the instructions of our guide, we can put on our crampons if the terrain is icy. And as we near the col, we finally find less difficult terrain to progress along below the ridge and finally reach the summit. If it is not too cold, we can enjoy the moment to the full and take a few photos. We then have to descend to Colera to leave the critical altitude zone. Allow 8 to 12 hours for this day's ascent to the summit.

We begin the long descent to the base camp of the normal route, where a well-deserved festive dinner awaits us.

We are in for a real tumble. A long day's walk to separate us from Aconcagua takes us down to Puente del Inca at the end of the Horcones valley. We then set off for Mendoza, where the heat is back. After a good shower, we enjoy a good asado with a good wine to celebrate our return.

Three hours before the flight, departure from our hotel and transfer by private vehicle from Mendoza to the airport. Domestic flight from Mendoza to Buenos Aires or Santiago and connection to Europe.