A more vertical ascent for a more ambitious expedition
Highlights
- The highest summit in the Americas, almost 7000 m
- One of the summits in the 7 Summits challenge
- Direct via the mythical Polonais glacier!
- Ratio of 2 guides to 3 climbers on the glacier
- A wilder, less frequented ascent
- Departure guaranteed from 2 participants
- Hyperbaric chamber and Ifremmont assistance
To reach the summit of Aconcagua at almost 7000 meters, the highest point in the Americas and one of the "7 Summits", we take the wilder eastern side of Aconcagua, which takes us to the foot of the Polish Glacier at almost 6000 meters. From there, it's a round trip day of snow and ice to reach the summit 1100 meters higher, with sections reaching 55°. This elegant itinerary is committed to its summit day. The glacier is fully equipped with fixed ropes in season, reducing the technical difficulty. But it is a physical challenge. The guide/climber ratio is almost 1:1 on this section. A route more sheltered from the violent winds that sweep across the west and north faces.
Overview
Aconcagua can be climbed by four different routes:
- via the classic north-west face, starting from Plaza de Mulas (the historic route of the first ascent),the normal Aconcagua route to be discovered here;
- by traversing the eastern slope, known as the Aconcagua traverse ascent, which you can discover here;
- via the east face, the ascent via the Polonais glacier, a more alpine route, which is what this trip notes is all about and finally,
- via the South Face, a highly committed route for professionals, which is now almost non-existent due to mountain conditions.
Aconcagua traverse from the east side, starting from Plaza Argentina. This route is slightly more demanding than the normal route, due to the long crossing at altitude between Camp 2 at 5,486 meters and Camp 3 of the normal route, Colera (5970 meters), which you reach before tackling the summit ascent.
This traverse route is sometimes mistakenly referred to as the Polish Traverse, which leads to a fair amount of confusion.
So what we are talking about here is the ascent via the Polish Glacier, which is another route and follows the same ascent route as the traverse, but at Camp 2 (5486 m), we divert to Camp 3 (5863 m) at the foot of the glacier, which we will be climbing to the summit and back. This means a climb of almost 1100 meters on a relatively steep glacier (40 to 55°) in snow and ice, which requires some mountaineering experience. In conclusion, the traverse passes close to the Polish Glacier, but does not use it!
Discover our animated itinerary of the Aconcagua via the Polish Glacier here
Itinerary
Day 1: Departure from Europe
Day 1
Flight to Mendoza via Buenos Aires or Santiago de Chile.
Day 2: Arrival in Mendoza
Day 2
We are met at Mendoza airport by our correspondent. Transfer to the city and check into the hotel. Initial contact with the guide to confirm the following day's schedule. We take advantage of the remaining free time to stroll through the lively, shady streets and squares. And on our first evening in Argentina, we have to try the legendary bife de chorizo.
Day 3: Mendoza
Day 3
Appointment with the guide, who gives us our precious permit, explains how the trip will work and checks each participant's equipment. This is also the time to make final purchases or rent equipment. Afternoon and evening free to wander around Mendoza.
Day 4: Mendoza – Penitentes – Punta de Vacas – Pampa de Lenas
Day 4
We take the road through the town and then the vineyards before reaching Potrerillos and its artificial lake (leisure centre) on the Rio Mendoza, then the last village of Uspallata. We then enter the valley of the Rio Horcones, which leads to the Chilean border. We arrive at the small station of Penitentes. We can drop off any luggage we do not need for the climb at our representative's warehouse. Once the mules are loaded, a final short 15-minute transfer takes us to Punta de Vacas (2400 m), the starting point of the trail to the base camp. The park rangers check our permits. The approach hike begins, on a gently sloping trail that leads to Pampa de Leñas (2950 m), the first camp in the long Vacas valley.
Day 5: Pampa de Lenas – Casa de Piedra (3240 m)
Day 5
The main aim of the day is acclimatization. We made slow progress through the very long Vacas valley. The Aconcagua came into view at the last moment as we reached the Casa de Piedra Camp. The east face, with its characteristic Polish Glacier, comes into view little by little.
Day 6: Casa de Piedra – Plaza Argentina (4190 m)
Day 6
We leave the Valle de Vacas and head due west into the Valle de Relinchos. The climb is tougher than on previous days, and you get short of breath. But the view of the Aconcagua is soaring, and we have to stop to enjoy the spectacle. We arrive in the afternoon at Plaza Argentina (4190 m), where our comfortable base camp is located.
Day 7: Plaza Argentina
Day 7
Day 8: Plaza Argentina – Aconcagua Camp 1 – Plaza Argentina
Day 8
Day 9: Plaza Argentina
Day 9
Day 10: Plaza Argentina – Aconcagua Camp 1 (4800m)
Day 10
Day 11: Camp 1 – Camp 2 (5486 m) – Camp 1
Day 11
Day 12: Camp 1 – Camp 2 (5486 m)
Day 12
Day 13: Camp 2
Day 13
Another day's rest, essential for acclimatization.
Day 14: Camp 2 – Camp 3 or Polish Glacier Camp (5863 m)
Day 14
We begin our ascent, heavily laden, towards the last camp before the summit, Camp 3 or Polish Glacier Camp, at the foot of the glacier at 5863 meters. We may have to pitch our tents there. Dinner at almost six thousand meters, probably the highest meal many of us have ever had.
Day 15: Ascent of Polish Glacier – Summit (6962 m) – Descent to Camp 3
Day 15
We set off very early for a long day's round trip to the summit of Aconcagua at 6962 meters, via the Polish Glacier. We put on our climbing gear and set off on the long ascent of almost 1100 meters, with sections at between 40 and 55° on snow and ice. Fortunately, the glacier is fully equipped with fixed ropes, but the physical effort is considerable. Safety is assured by our guides, with a guide/climber ratio of almost 1:1. We take a very light rucksack (water, food, a few items of clothing and a camera). We reached the end of our struggles and finally made it to the summit. If it is not too cold, we can make the most of the moment and take a few photos. Then it's back down to Camp 3, where we descent the 1100 meters from the glacier. It takes 10 to 12 hours to get to the summit and back.
Days 16 & 17: Extra days
Day 16
We begin the long descent to the base camp of the normal route, where a well-deserved festive dinner awaits us.
Day 18: Camp 3 – Plaza Argentina
Day 18
We begin the long descent to the base camp of the normal route, where a well-deserved festive dinner awaits us.
Day 19: Plaza Argentina – Pampa de Lenas
Day 19
We continue our descent to Pampa de Lenas.
Day 20: Plaza Argentina Pampa de Lenas – Punta de Vacas – Penitentes – Mendoza
Day 20
A long day's walk to separate us from Aconcagua takes us down to Punta de Vacas and then Penitentes. We then set off for Mendoza, where the heat is back. After a good shower, we enjoy a good asado with a good wine to celebrate our return.
Day 21: Return to Europe
Day 21
Three hours before the flight, departure from our hotel and transfer by private vehicle from Mendoza to the airport. Domestic flight Mendoza – Buenos Aires or Santiago and connection to Europe.
Day 22: Arrival in Europe
Day 22
END OF EXPEDITION
For reasons that cannot be foreseen at this stage, such as unpredictable weather, the physical fitness or lack of fitness of participants or other circumstancess (customs formalities, road conditions, traffic, landslides, force majeure, etc.), your expedition leader may have to adapt the program, if necessary, to ensure the smooth running of your trip. He remains the sole judge and the one who guarantees your safety. Activity times are given as an indication and may vary from one participant to another.
The itinerary for all our expedition programs, or the ascent program for our high-mountain expeditions, are given here as a guide only. They are flexible enough to adapt to weather conditions with a few contingency days. In any case, you should follow the recommendations of your guide, who may suggest that you cancel your expedition due to weather, safety or physical conditions.
It is important to remember that this is a truly unsupported expedition, and that anything can happen. Expeditions Unlimited, your expedition leader, your guide or our local teams can in no way be held responsible.
Any costs incurred as a result of a change in the expedition schedule (extra nights' accommodation, extra flights) will be borne by the participants and not by the organizers. "Contingency days" refer to the expedition in the strict sense of the term (base camp/base camp in the mountains, departure point/exit point on a traverse, etc.).
Any early return of the expedition or of certain members only (early success, abandonment, etc.), generating costs for accommodation, meals, changes to air tickets or other activities not provided for in this program, will be charged in full to the participants.
Trip notes
Guiding
All the Argentinean mountain guides on our team have undergone the compulsory training required to work at altitude. Two institutions are authorized in Argentina to provide this training: the EPGAMT (Escuela Provincial de Guias de Alta Montagna y Trekking) and the AAGM (Association Argentina des Guides de Montagne), itself affiliated since 1984 to the UIAGM (Union Internationale des Associations de Guide de Montagne), whose role is to ensure that all certified guides worldwide have the same level of competence. We strive to work with the same guides for as long as possible, year after year, as their experience over the years reinforces their skills. All our guides are Spanish- and English-speaking. A French-speaking guide is available on request, but must be booked well in advance.
For the expedition, there is one main guide for the group. This guide may be assisted by one or more assistants, depending on the size of the group. A Whatsapp group will be set up 48 hours before departure. This group will be used to provide important pre-departure information, as well as meeting places and times. Conversation will generally be in English.
The ratio of mountain guides to participants in the group changes as the group progresses:
- Up to base camp, 1 guide for every 6 participants;
- For rotations from base camp to the high altitude camps, 1 guide for every 4 participants.
For the summit push, count :
- 1 guide for every 1 participant
- 2 guides for 2 and 3 participants
- 3 guides for 4 participants
The porters all have the national mountain guide diploma. Their presence enables us to reduce the weight of loads to be carried. In addition to these porters, there are “water carriers” who carry drinking water to the high-altitude camps.
Finally, the mules that carry our luggage and all our collective equipment are indispensable. We take great care of them.
For unpredictable reasons at this stage, like adverse weather conditions, insufficient physical condition of participants, insufficient competencies of participants related to the intended activities, your guide may decide to adjust the intended program and/or activities. At all times, his decision will be final on all matters likely to affect the safety and well-being of the trip.
Difficulty level
Level rated: difficult
This program is aimed at participants in good physical shape, with a significant sport practice, endurance in particular, holding a strong mental to face difficulties that are unforeseen by nature.
Cumulative daily ascents and descents can reach 1000 meters. We work in isolated environments where the safety of the group depends on the endurance and autonomy of each participant. Team spirit is essential in these ambitious projects, which are aimed at very good sportsmen and women.
The collective equipment is carried by mule to the base camp (Plaza Argentina).
Beyond the base camp, each participant must carry his or her personal belongings and some of the food. Most of the collective equipment and the water essential for the high-altitude camps are carried by porters (one for every four participants). With the equipment and clothing essential for the climb, the weight of your rucksack should not exceed 14 or 15 kilos, to which should be added some of the collective equipment (tents, stoves, etc.). Your rucksack can then weigh between 18 and 22 kilos. Beyond that, you are carrying unnecessary items! It is possible to use the services of an individual porter (for a maximum of 20 kg) between the base camp and the last camp. The price then varies according to the weight and the route for which the porter is hired. Expect to pay between USD 500 and USD 1,500 in cash on the spot.
Participants will be responsible for putting up and taking down the tents at the high camps.
The ascent of Aconcagua is not difficult, and this is its weak point, presenting a real danger if you do not prepare seriously. It is an adventure in the world of very high altitude and you need to think seriously, well in advance, about how to manage this experience. To do this, we strongly advise you to set aside a day or a weekend (date to be agreed) to work together to establish rules that will serve as benchmarks for you and guarantee your safety.
Preparation courses for high mountain / polar environments as part of our School of Adventure can be a great asset, both to build your confidence and to increase your autonomy.
For this expedition, you will benefit free of charge from pre-expedition teleconsultation and membership of the 24/7 medical service for the duration of the expedition, set up with our partner Ifremmont. See below for details.
Technical difficulty
Mountaineering level: PD like... A little difficult (Peu Difficile in French)
In this program, the use of mountaineering equipment (crampons, harness, ice ax, ropes, etc.) is necessary and the route tackled may involve small difficulties, whether it is a little more inclined during glacier mountaineering, height of the walls, the length and the continuity of the efforts. It is therefore aimed at rough beginners who already have a little experience in mountaineering, who have already completed a few ascents of this level or slightly below. The mountaineering courses at our Adventure School from three days are for you. And this technical rating applies of course to normal weather conditions: the difficulty can increase in the event of bad conditions, fresh snow on rocks, insufficient or lack of quality of ice , etc. Likewise, the situation changes radically, for the same technical level, with the altitude, the weight of the bag, the lack of equipment on the route, the fatigue associated with the approach if it is long, the environment, if particularly hostile, etc.
Meeting point
We meet up in Mendoza, where we are met at the airport by our local teams.
As participants in this expedition often come from different countries, we have not included the international flights in our price. However, we can reserve these flights for you. Do not hesitate to contact us. If you book your flights, we will give you all directions for your flight plan so that all participants land around the same time. You will need tickets that can be modified.
Accommodations
MENDOZA AND TREKKING
In a good-category hotel in Mendoza, preferably the Diplomatic Hotel or similar. In 3-seater dome tents used for two participants for the approach walk to the base camp, Plaza de Mulas. A single room is possible with a supplement.
BASE CAMP
Spacious, heated mess and lounge dome tents. Toilet tents with hot showers. 3-seater dome tents used for overnight stays by two participants. A single tent is available at extra cost. In the dome tent or in a dedicated tent, you can recharge your 110 v, 220 v and 12 v electrical appliances. Free satellite wifi via starlink.
HIGH ALTITUDE CAMPS
3-person dome tents used for two participants at each altitude camp. Each altitude camp has a dedicated dome tent reserved for guides and porters. In it, you'll find a VHF radio and a USB charger, which can be made available subject to good weather conditions and crowds.
Meals
MENDOZA AND TREKKING
Food in Argentina is excellent, but very meaty. Vegetarians are not catered for, but vegetarian menus are available on request when you register. At base camps and in some camps, it is not uncommon to enjoy a BBQ.
Fresh, nutritious food is provided daily, prepared by cooks. We take our meals in a dome tent. The food is varied and includes vegetables, meat and fish. Throughout our stay at base camp, food, tea and coffee are provided free of charge.
BASE CAMP
Fresh, nutritious food is provided daily, prepared by in-house cooks.
HIGH ALTITUDE CAMPS
Food is always prepared by us. We provide a picnic lunch. However, we suggest you bring a few treats from France, which you'll particularly appreciate at high altitude. In the evenings and mornings, food is prepared by the guides. Sometimes freeze-dried or cooked depending on altitude and weather.
DRINKING WATER
Drinking water is provided throughout. This is an increasingly important issue, given the dramatic reduction in glaciers and rivers on Aconcagua. This water is reserved exclusively for culinary use and is used to fill our water bottles. This water is sometimes carried (from base camp to camp 1, for example) or made up of melted snow. It is not possible to wash with this water, which is becoming increasingly rare on the mountain.
PROVISIONS & SNACKS
At base camp, there's an all-you-can-eat food buffet (chocolates, dried fruit and chocolate bars, powdered fruit juice, etc.). In the high altitude camps, it is also possible to stock up, but on a more limited scale.
Transfers / Transport
Transfers from and to the airport are provided by minibus. The route is planned in 4x4 or minibus.
Group size
The departure is an international departure, sometimes involving several nationalities, and is not exclusive to Expeditions Unlimited. The maximum number of people in the group is often 8, or even 10, rarely more. That said, to leave a margin of safety, the logistical organisation can plan for a group of up to 15 participants.
The group is composed of 1 to 15 participants maximum. The number of participants is deliberately limited to allow for greater immersion, to avoid embarrassing our hosts, and to develop freedom and flexibility. However, the maximum number may be exceeded if the last person to register wishes to travel with one or more other people. The services will not be modified, and the conditions of the trip will remain the same.
Equipment
Personal equipment is not provided. However, a complete list is provided to allow you to check that you are taking what is necessary.
All logistics equipment is provided.
OXYGEN
Below 7000 meters, oxygen is not justified. However, it is available at base camp and in the high altitude camps for medical use. Oxygen can be used during the summit push on special request and at extra cost. It is best to make the request a month before departure or, at the latest, at base camp (but there is no guarantee of availability). Approx. US$1,000 per cylinder, to be paid in cash on site.
SAFETY AND COMMUNICATION
All our camps are linked by radio. At base camp, a permanent link is maintained with Penitentes. Free wifi at base camp.
MOUNTAINEERING AND CLIMBING EQUIPMENT
The personal equipment list is given at the end of this document, in the “Personal equipment” section.
We recommend that you leave home with all this equipment. For this reason, we offer all cold-weather equipment and technical climbing gear for hire (please consult us).
If you are missing something, you can always rent equipment on site, but availability, quality and price (hyperinflation) are not guaranteed, especially in high season and/or for unusual boot sizes. The four equipment stores in Mendoza are likely to offer the following for hire and/or purchase:
- Mountaineering boots
- Down jacket -30°C
- Down gloves
- Mattress
- Crampons
- Expedition rugsack
- Ice axe
- Sleeping bag
Our commitments to sustainable development
Our commitment to a better planet has been a reality since the beginning of our story but we always need to do more and better. Please find out more about our charter and our commitments in terms of sustainable development. We have drafted our charter and take action through six themes on which we act as concretely as possible, most often with you: social equity and cultural respect, preservation of water, waste management in expedition, protection of biodiversity, raise public awareness on these subjects and finally, the optimization and recovery of CO2 emissions.
Regarding carbon emissions, most of which are due to air travel, we calculated and communicated in 2018 on the carbon footprint of each of our programs, expressed in tonnes of CO2.
These calculations made us aware of the importance of the total carbon emissions generated by our activity. Also, we have committed in 2022 to a carbon reduction that we believe is unprecedented in the tourism industry, aiming to reduce the total emissions of our activity by 5% per year, taking 2019 as the reference year (3,430 tonnes of CO2). This commitment is in line with the trajectory of the Paris climate agreements of 2015, the current benchmark. Thus, in 2030, we will not entitle ourselves to exceed 2,160 tonnes of C02 and until then, each year, as soon as the carbon footprint budget is reached, we will stop taking any reservations for the current year. Thus, our maximum “carbon” budget for 2024 is 2,950 tonnes and for 2025, this budget will be reduced to 2,800 tonnes. And so on until 2030. To find out more about all of our calculations and our commitments in terms of reducing our carbon emissions.
In addition, since 2019, we have been encouraging you when you book for your journey to contribute with a donation to an independent NGO, among the two we have selected that share the commitments made in our charter. We matched the amount of this donation to this program's carbon footprint. Thus, the journey you are considering generates 4,42 tons of CO2, which corresponds to a 100% donation of €133 for an estimated value today of €30 per tonne of CO2. This donation remains of course optional and you can decide to give between nothing and 100% of this amount. Since 2019, including covid years of 2020 and 2021, we have been able to collect thanks to you nearly €7,000 for these associations.
Please do not hesitate to come back to us with any questions you might have regarding this carbon footprint mechanism, our other sustainable développement commitments or even to share with us your experience through a chat or a mail at contact@secret-planet.com.
Mot de l'expert
This is an alternative to the normal route and the traverse for experienced mountaineers, requiring a real physical effort on 1100 meters of glacier in snow and ice at 55° maximum, from Camp 3, i.e. between 6000 and 7000 meters. We felt it was our duty to offer this route, which complements the other two, more accessible ones. Aconcagua is part of the Seven Summits challenge. Conceived by Dick Bass and Franck Wells in 1985, the 7 Summits challenge involves climbing the highest peak on each of the seven continents. Everest in Nepal/China, Aconcagua in Chile, Mount Denali in Alaska, Kilimanjaro in Tanzania, Elbrus in Russia, Mount Vinson in Antarctica and the Carstensz Pyramid in Indonesian Papua.
Departures and pricing
Please find below all dates and prices for this expedition. Prices are quoted "from" and may be adjusted notably according to the number of participants (see trip notes for details). Please note that dates and prices for years beyond 2024, when given, are for guidance only and are subject to change and readjustment to take account of current economic realities.
No date works for me!
I initiate a new datePrice includes
- 3 nights' accommodation in a 5-star hotel in Mendoza with breakfast in a double room
- Airport/hotel transfers in Mendoza
- Transfers by private vehicle between Mendoza and the start/return point of the trekking tour
- Full-board meals during the trek
- Carrying of personal belongings by mules during the trek and to base camp
- Accommodation in triple tents for two people during the trek
- Base camp equipment: kitchen tent, mess tent, tables and chairs, toilet tent, shower tent
- Base camp kitchen team
- Base camp triple tent for two people
- Double high-altitude tents, high-altitude food, stoves and fuel
- Insurance for guides (evacuation, hospitalization, medical expenses, life insurance), cook and helpers
- 1 experienced English-speaking local mountain guide for 4 participants (1 French-speaking guide on some departures, please consult us)
- 1 porter per 4 participants for collective equipment (20 kg maximum per porter)
- Drinking water carriers at altitude camps
- Collective climbing equipment
- Satellite telephone (for rescue purposes only)
- Electricity at base camp for charging small electronic equipment (cell phones, ordinary cameras, etc.)
- Weather forecast services
- Free internet and wifi at Confluencia and base camp
- Medical follow-up by Ifremmont during the expedition (see above)
- Live coverage of the expedition for your community (supply of InReach beacon & subscriptions)
- Unlimited text messages to your personal contacts (InReach beacon)
- Preparatory videoconference meetings (in France)
Price does not include
- International return flight to Mendoza
- Taxes and climbing permit, adjusted annually by the Argentinian government (1 050 US$ permit fees in 2024/25)
- Consular fees (visa)
- Any customs taxes upon arrival in Argentina
- Import taxes, if any, for satellite phones, professional communications equipment and commercial filming
- Any additional hotel nights in Mendoza (over 3 nights)
- Any helicopter transfers
- Meals in Mendoza other than breakfasts
- Expenses related to a shift in the expedition schedule (additional nights' accommodation beyond 3 nights in Argentina, meals, air supplements)
- Expenses related to the early return of the expedition or of certain members only (abandonment, etc.), generating costs for transfers (porters, guide, vehicle, plane, etc.), accommodation, meals, changes to plane tickets or other activities not included in this program
- Tips for guides and local staff, to be shared with other participants to your satisfaction.
- Any personal communications by satellite phone (to be paid locally)
- Personal equipment including individual high-altitude gear
- Rental of personal high-altitude equipment, subject to availability
- Pre-acclimatization protocol developed with Ifremmont and physical and/or mental preparation with a specialist Sport Altitude coach as described above
- Drinks and personal expenses (sightseeing, cabs, souvenirs, dry-cleaning, etc.)
- Travel and expedition insurance (assistance, evacuation and repatriation)
Your custom expedition
We put our expertise, our knowledge of the terrain, our creativity, our experience, the quality of our guides and the reliability of our partners at your service to build your custom expedition. We can also personalize an expedition to your wishes as soon as you form a "closed" group, whatever the number of participants.
This means that, unless you authorize us to do otherwise, no outside participants join you, and we can personalize your expedition by adapting it to your own pace, with the program extensions you desire, a higher level of comfort, certain activities, other encounters, etc.
Every expedition of this type is subject to a specific quotation. To get in touch with us now, please fill in the short questionnaire below. One of our experts will get back to you to refine your request and make you a proposal.
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