Logbook: climbing Korjenevskaya peak to 7105 m

Having climbed Peak Lenin on three previous occasions, this year we set out with six climbers, led by French mountain guide Serge Bazin, to tackle the second Snow Leopard Challenge peak in (theoretical) order of difficulty: Peak Korjenevskaya. All in all, it did not disappoint our expectations and proved to be a notch above Lenin, technically speaking, with steeper slopes and the need, given this summer's weather, to re-equip part of the route with fixed ropes. Expeditions Unlimited joined forces with Serge for the Snow Leopard Challenge. The Snow Leopard Challenge involves climbing the five highest peaks in the former Soviet Union: Ibn Sina Peak (ex-Lenin Peak) at 7,134 meters on the Tajikistan-Kyrgyzstan border, Ozodi Peak (ex-Korjenevskaya Peak) at 7,105 meters and Ismail Somoni Peak (ex-Communism Peak) at 7,495 meters in Tajikistan and, finally, Khan Tengri Peak at 7,010 meters and Jengish Chokosu Peak (ex-Victory Peak, ex-Pobeda Peak) at 7,439 meters in Kyrgyzstan. Next on our list is Khan Tengri peak at 7,010 metres in summer 2025. 

Read the diary of our expedition to Peak Korjenevskaya in Tajikistan in August 2023, an ascent to 7,105 metres supervised by French mountain guide Serge Bazin and involving six climbers.

Find out more about all the Snow Leopard Challenge climbs.

Expedition arrives in Duhanbe (July 27, 2023)

All 7 arrived safely in Dushanbe this morning, where the temperature reached 42°C. A good flight from France via Istanbul. All the luggage was present on arrival, the usual critical point in any long-distance expedition.

Between air-conditioned rooms and exploring the city, they went about their day's business.

Tajik-style, the organization of the next few days is not entirely clear. But they should soon be transferred for their helicopter flight to the base camp shared by Korjenevskaya and Pic Communisme.

Express transfer to Korjenevskaya base camp (July 28, 2023)

They've already arrived at the Korjenevskaya or Moskvina Polyana Camp base camp at 4,360 metres!

Yesterday, having just settled into their hotel room, they were picked up for an immediate transfer to the helicopter take-off zone, the idea being to take advantage of a weather window.

Their bags will be part of a future rotation. It's never comfortable not to have one's gear, but it should arrive shortly.

In any case, now is the time for acclimatization, as landing like this at 4,360 metres is never without undesirable effects.

Mountaineering bags have arrived (July 30, 2023)

Good news! All their bags arrived at base camp yesterday. Everything is now in place for this formidable expedition to get underway!

According to Yan Giezendanner, our super router in Chamonix, the weather forecast looks favorable for the coming week. The acclimatization strategy can now be fine-tuned. 

Archive photo of Jean-François Descat's base camp. 

First exploration around base camp (July 31, 2023)

Everyone seems to have adapted to the altitude of the base camp at 4,360 metres.

Yesterday, they took a short walk. Today, it's off to the first acclimatization summit, Vorobiev at 5,700 meters. They set up camp at 5,200 metres and return to base camp this evening.

Tomorrow is a rest day, followed by attempted ascents on Wednesday and Thursday. 

Avalanche on the normal route to the peak of Communism. 

Acclimatization at Vorobiev, 5700 meters (August 5, 2023)

They are back at base camp after a fine acclimatization ascent of Vorobiev to 5,700 meters.

A slight low-pressure system is expected early in the week. Once this has passed, Serge has decided to start the ascent of Korjenevskaya by dropping off equipment at Camp 1 at 5,100 meters. 

Material depot at Korjenevskaya camp 1 (August 6, 2023)

They're in great shape! In the end, their return to base camp was short-lived. They took advantage of Sunday to drop off equipment at Camp 1 on the Korjenevskaya at 5,100 metres and were back at base camp this evening.

Two days of enforced rest in view of the low-pressure system expected early this week. 

Material depot at Korjenevskaya Camp 2 (August 10, 2023)

The weather is fine! The team took the opportunity to climb back up the Korjeneveskaya, perfect their acclimatization and drop off equipment at the next camps.

After arriving at camp 1 (5,100 m) yesterday, they reached camp 2 (5,300 m) today. Conditions are already difficult, with lots of ice on 40° slopes.

Tomorrow, they are due to drop off equipment at camp 3 (6,200 m) and return to sleep at camp 2.

Camp 3 and ice slopes (August 12, 2023)

They're back at base camp. Mission accomplished!

Drop-off at Camp 3 at around 6,200 meters completed. Routes to be equipped, snow and ice - it wasn't all plain sailing.

Three days' rest to repair the organisms and it's summit push if the weather remains favorable. Direct ascent to camp 2 for two nights, then camp 3, then... To be continued!

Break at the old base camp (August 15, 2023)

While we're waiting for the summit push, how about a game of ping-pong in the old abandoned base camp? A bit surreal at almost 4,400 meters... Nice room though!

Re-equipping the route (August 16, 2023)

The team led by Serge Bazin reached camp 2 at 5620 meters in the middle of the day.

The camp is exposed to rockfalls and they are eager to reach camp 3. To get there, they'll have to re-equip the 200-metre ice passage between the camps and other difficult passages... all while carrying. A difficult summit.

Summit push to follow...

At Korjenevskaya Camp 3 (August 18, 2023)

They arrived at Camp 3 yesterday. They had to install more than 25 belay points on the ice (lunulas or ... abalakov), i.e. 50 holes to make the climb safe.

Today is a rest day at 6,320 meters. They're in good shape and the weather remains fine, with a little wind at altitude.

To the summit of Korjenevskaya (August 19, 2023)

They reached the summit this morning and are back at Camp 3. Serge tells us, “All the belay techniques have been used. Hats off to our guys, they did a great job. I'm dead!” 👍👍👍.

We wait for them to return to base camp. Korjenevskaya summit. 

Safe return to base camp (August 20, 2023)

The team is safely back at base camp this evening. It's been a long, hard and beautiful climb.

The summit was reached yesterday at around 10 a.m. Paris time. They are, of course, tired and happy.

Special thanks to Yan for his ever-professional weather routing. And thanks to Jean-François Descat and Julien Delteil, whom we followed last year on the Korjenevskaya, and who helped us prepare this magnificent expedition.

Stock photo of 2022 by Jean-François Descat and Julien Delteil.

Climb Korzhenevskoi Peak at 7105 meters in Tajikistan.