Elbrus by the wild side
Highlights
- The roof of Europe and one of the Seven Summits
- A less frequented, more committed and wild route than the southern side
- A day of safety in case of bad weather
- Medical assistance H24 Ifremmont included
- Local French-speaking mountain guide
- Optimized acclimatization for more success
For us, French and Western Europeans, Mont Blanc has an aura linked to the fact that on the one hand, Chamonix is easily accessible, and on the other hand, that the first ascent of Mont Blanc marked the beginning of mountaineering history. While Mont Blanc is the highest point in western Europe, Elbrus remains the highest peak in Europe and as such, one of the Seven Summits. We attempt the summit (5642 m) on foot, after an adequate acclimatization that allows us to approach the summit assault, difficult and long, in good conditions. It will take us almost twelve hours to reach the summit, starting from the advanced base camp at 3760 meters, 1800 meters of elevation gain and the same thing in negative. Excellent physical condition and good endurance are required to attempt this climb. The weather is the decisive factor for success
Overview
It is a legendary volcano, prison of Prometheus, since the legend says that this one was chained between its two summits for having stolen the sacred fire of the Olympus in order to give it to men. Man was only interested in this mountain a century after Mont Blanc. The first ascent was not until 1874, when the Mont Blanc had already been climbed by the spur of the Brenva. In fact, as early as 1829, the summit of the Elbrus was reached by a Russian military scientific operation on the north route, a route less frequented and more wild than we take. Then the English, with the help of their French, Austrian or Swiss guides helped by locals, finally reached the summit east and then west by the south-east. This has become the normal route.
We also offer other programs where we make its ascent on foot on the north side, and also skiing on both sides. The Elbrus is indeed a summit that is particularly good for ski touring, the slopes being quite low in its last part... And the pleasure of the descent, which avoids another 6 hours (added to the 12 hours of ascent) is inenénarrable! Consult us to learn more.
The weather can be quite capricious at 5600 meters, thunderstorms in summer, even at night, are possible. This is one of the most common reasons for failure at the summit. The summit is not "feasible" when the wind exceeds 60 km/h, which can happen even when the weather is perfect. So luck is in the game. But luck also smiles on the bold. You have to know how to leave the refuge at one o'clock in the morning without being sure of passing Pastukhov Rocks (4800 m), to see a little higher if it passes or not. Your guide will accompany you.
In July 2019, we took some pictures of our ascent of the Elbrus (5642 m) by the north slope, in eight days on site. With a poor weather and a limited wind, a little by chance and even more by opportunism, Pascal and Eric were the only two summiters of that week. Located in the Caucasus in Russia, Elbrus is the highest summit in Europe and as such one of the Seven Summits.
Itinerary
Days 1 &2: Europe – Mineralnye Vody – Piatigorsk
Day 1
Flight from Europe to Mineralnye Vody via Moscow. Depending on our departure airport and flights, we reach Mineralnye Vody in the morning or early afternoon. We are met at the airport by our local team, before driving to the town of Pyatigorsk, located only 30 kilometers from Mineralnye Vody. It also happens that, landing early in the morning, we can reach the base camp (Hathansu) on the same day, which saves us a half-day or even a day on the program, Thus providing an extra day of buffer in case of bad weather window.
Day 3: Piatigorsk – Hathansu
Day 3
In the morning, we head back to the Hathansu High Prairie at 2600 meters. We reach the base camp on foot. Mineral water sources are within walking distance of the camp.
Day 4: First acclimatization day above Hathansu
Day 4
Days 4 and 5 are dedicated to acclimatization and preparation for our ascent. The following is just an example of what can be done, but often followed!
On the first day, we leave the base camp on foot to reach the Stone Mushroom meadow located at 3200 meters altitude. The trail is beautiful. We take the opportunity to see for the first time the two round peaks of the Elbrus, the eastern summit and the western summit. Then we hike, in the heart of these immense lava mushrooms that also look like dolmens! Some can reach more than 5 meters high. Return to camp.
These two days are adapted to the fitness condition of each participant.
Day 5: Second acclimatization day above Hathansu
Day 5
The second acclimation day is usually when we will start to climb our stuff to the upper camp at 3760 meters (advanced base camp). We leave at the base camp what we do not need higher up and save some stuff for the next day, where we will join the advanced base camp again... this time to stay there. Our bag is loaded at 10-12 kilos. This day is a good test of our physical abilities! We can call on Russian porters who can take part of our charge (count less than 5 euros per kilo to pay on site, not included in our service). We discover the advanced base camp and then go back down to the base camp after leaving as many kilos as possible!
Day 6: Base camp (2600 m) – Advanced base camp (3760 m)
Day 6
Today, we are back on the way to the previous day, more or less loaded depending on what we took with us the previous day. We join the advanced base camp, which is now our base, surrounded by snow and ice for the rest of our expedition. We take a good trail that overlooks a narrow gorge and cross the high altitude meadows, offering spectacular views of the glaciers on the north face. Then, we reach the plateau called "the aerodrome" where, it seems, there were planes during the last world war. We finally start a steep climb up to a shoulder offering us some respite before resuming our ascent. The altitude is felt, even if after three days of acclimatization we feel good. Finally, we walk along the Mikelchiran glacier through the moraine before reaching our refuge.
Day 7: Climb to Lenz Rocks (4650 m)
Day 7
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Day 8: Advanced base camp
Day 8
The day is about rest. We prepare our things and rest our bodies in preparation for tomorrow’s big day. It is also possible to retrace part of the previous day’s walk towards Lenz Rock to further perfect our acclimatization.
Day 9: Ascent of Elbrus (5642 m)
Day 9
We leave around 1:00 am to walk up the hill on slopes with slight inclines (30 to 35°). We only take the bare minimum for this ascent. Once we pass Lenz Rocks (4760 m), we reach the Selle (Sedlov) where we flirt with the 5300 meters of altitude. This is where, between the east and west peaks, we find those who have taken the classic route on the south slope. We still have about 340 meters to climb before reaching the west summit. These are not the simplest portions and we will need energy to reach the top, especially if the wind is "strong". Some fixed ropes are installed for security. Once we reach the summit, we enjoy this special moment before starting our long descent to the refuge. Depending on the physical condition of each and the climatic conditions, it is possible to make only the east summit, a few meters below.
Number of trek hours: approximately 10 to 13 o'clock on the way up / 5 to 6 hours on the way down.
Day 10: Contingency day
Day 10
Day 11: Advanced base camp – Hathansu – Piatigorsk
Day 11
In the morning, we go back down from the advanced base camp to the Hathansu base camp. We are quite busy since we are taking down all our equipment in one go this time. To have a porter is a luxury. Once we reach Hathansu, we meet the vehicles to reach the spa resort of Piatigorsk. We spend the evening discovering its streets and folklore. The city center is charming. We end the evening with a dinner at the restaurant with our guide to celebrate our expedition.
Day 12: Piatigorsk – Mineralnye Vody– Europe
Day 12
END OF EXPEDITION
For reasons that cannot be foreseen at this stage, such as unpredictable weather, the physical fitness or lack of fitness of participants or other circumstancess (customs formalities, road conditions, traffic, landslides, force majeure, etc.), your expedition leader may have to adapt the program, if necessary, to ensure the smooth running of your trip. He remains the sole judge and the one who guarantees your safety. Activity times are given as an indication and may vary from one participant to another.
The itinerary for all our expedition programs, or the ascent program for our high-mountain expeditions, are given here as a guide only. They are flexible enough to adapt to weather conditions with a few contingency days. In any case, you should follow the recommendations of your guide, who may suggest that you cancel your expedition due to weather, safety or physical conditions.
It is important to remember that this is a truly unsupported expedition, and that anything can happen. Expeditions Unlimited, your expedition leader, your guide or our local teams can in no way be held responsible.
Any costs incurred as a result of a change in the expedition schedule (extra nights' accommodation, extra flights) will be borne by the participants and not by the organizers. "Contingency days" refer to the expedition in the strict sense of the term (base camp/base camp in the mountains, departure point/exit point on a traverse, etc.).
Any early return of the expedition or of certain members only (early success, abandonment, etc.), generating costs for accommodation, meals, changes to air tickets or other activities not provided for in this program, will be charged in full to the participants.
Trip notes
Guiding
An English-speaking Russian mountain guide.
Ratio of 1 guide to a maximum of 4 participants.
For unpredictable reasons at this stage, like adverse weather conditions, insufficient physical condition of participants, insufficient competencies of participants related to the intended activities, your guide may decide to adjust the intended program and/or activities. At all times, his decision will be final on all matters likely to affect the safety and well-being of the trip.
Difficulty level
Level rated: difficult
This program is aimed at participants in good physical shape, with a significant sport practice, endurance in particular, holding a strong mental to face difficulties that are unforeseen by nature.
This program requires excellent physical and mental fitness. The natural environments crossed are diverse, the trails sometimes not marked and the climatic conditions difficult (strong wind possible in altitude, low temperatures, etc.). We must not forget the length of the race, its altitude and distance. Participants will need to be aware of the risks inherent in altitude. A habit of walking in difficult terrain is required. The ascent itself does not require technical skills but requires a sustained and long effort in sometimes difficult conditions. You will undertake the carrying between the base camp (2600 m) and the advanced base camp (3760 m). It can be done twice on the climb and once on the descent. So, pay attention to the weight of your equipment. You should know that you can call on local porters (less than €5 per kilo). Be careful, however, because their availability is not certain even if it is probable. Finally, you must be able to walk with crampons for long hours, and on slopes ranging from 30 to 35° with some passages at 40°.
For your registration to this expedition, you will be asked to provide an expedition CV (mountain climb list) / trek/ sports. A medical certificate of no contraindication to the accomplishment of an ascent at high altitude is also mandatory.
For this expedition, you benefit, free of charge and for the duration of your expedition, from the membership in the medical service at high altitude H24 7/7 set up with our partner Ifremmont. Cf. below.
Technical difficulty
Mountaineering level: F like... Easy (Facile in French!)
In this program, the use of mountaineering equipment (crampons, harness, ice ax, ropes, etc.) is necessary but the route covered does not involve any technical difficulty. It is therefore aimed at beginners or even participants who have never practiced. Clearly, a little prior experience in the activity can be interesting, knowing how to equip yourself, knowing how to tie a few essential knots. The mountaineering courses at our Adventure School from three days are for you. And this technical rating applies of course to normal weather conditions: the difficulty can increase in the event of bad weather conditions, fresh snow on rocks, insufficient or lack of quality of the ice, etc. Likewise, the situation changes radically, for the same technical level, with the altitude, the weight of the bag, the lack of equipment on the route, the fatigue associated with the approach if it is long, the environment if particularly hostile, etc.
Meeting point
We meet in Mineralnye Vody where we are met at the airport by our local teams.
For international transport, regular economy class flights on the following airlines: Aeroflot, Air France, KLM.
For domestic transport between Moscow and Mineralnye Vody, regular economy class flight on the company Aeroflot.
Given the diverse origins of the participants on this trip, international outward and return flights are not included in this package. In most cases, we book flights on your behalf to ensure that the whole group arrives at the destination at the same time. We do not charge any fees for these air bookings. Please do not hesitate to contact us. If you book your own tickets, we will advise you on the ideal flight schedule to enable all participants to arrive within a reduced time frame. At the very least, you need tickets that can be modified.
Accommodations
Nights in hotel 3* local standards in Pyatigorsk, base room twin. The base camp shelter only houses the restaurant and a rest room. Accommodation is in a mess-type tent for three people. At the advanced base camp, on the other hand, we sleep in refuge and meals taken in refuge. Showers (not very hot) are available at base camp, not at advanced base camp. The refuge (mountain huts) are heated and nice!
Meals
Meals prepared at base camp and advanced base camp huts. Food is consistent, diverse and program-appropriate. The trip is full board from dinner on day 2 to breakfast on day 12. The dinner of the 11th day is not included to allow you to enjoy this last evening with more flexibility. Consider inviting the guide to dinner!
Transfers / Transport
Transfers from and to the airport are provided by 4x4 or minibus. Same for transport throughout the trip.
Group size
The group is composed of 4 to 8 participants maximum. The number of participants is deliberately limited to allow for greater immersion, to avoid embarrassing our hosts, and to develop freedom and flexibility. However, the maximum number may be exceeded if the last person to register wishes to travel with one or more other people. The services will not be modified, and the conditions of the trip will remain the same.
Equipment
Personal equipment is not provided. However, a complete list is provided to allow you to check that you are taking what is necessary.
All logistics equipment is provided.
Your guide has a telephone, the GSM telephone network goes to the advanced base camp.
You must have personal mountaineering equipment, including a helmet, crampons, ice axe, harness, etc. A complete list is provided below.
Our commitments to sustainable development
Our commitment to a better planet has been a reality since the beginning of our story but we always need to do more and better. Please find out more about our charter and our commitments in terms of sustainable development. We have drafted our charter and take action through six themes on which we act as concretely as possible, most often with you: social equity and cultural respect, preservation of water, waste management in expedition, protection of biodiversity, raise public awareness on these subjects and finally, the optimization and recovery of CO2 emissions.
Regarding carbon emissions, most of which are due to air travel, we calculated and communicated in 2018 on the carbon footprint of each of our programs, expressed in tonnes of CO2.
These calculations made us aware of the importance of the total carbon emissions generated by our activity. Also, we have committed in 2022 to a carbon reduction that we believe is unprecedented in the tourism industry, aiming to reduce the total emissions of our activity by 5% per year, taking 2019 as the reference year (3,430 tonnes of CO2). This commitment is in line with the trajectory of the Paris climate agreements of 2015, the current benchmark. Thus, in 2030, we commit ourselves not to exceed 2,160 tonnes of C02. Thus, our maximum “carbon” budget for 2024 is 2,950 tonnes and for 2025, this budget will be reduced to 2,800 tonnes. And so on until 2030. To find out more about all of our calculations and our commitments in terms of reducing our carbon emissions.
In addition, since 2019, we have been encouraging you when you book for your journey to contribute with a donation to an independent NGO, among the two we have selected that share the commitments made in our charter. We matched the amount of this donation to this program's carbon footprint. Thus, the journey you are considering generates 1,6 tons of CO2, which corresponds to a 100% donation of €48 for an estimated value today of €30 per tonne of CO2. This donation remains of course optional and you can decide to give between nothing and 100% of this amount. Since 2019, including covid years of 2020 and 2021, we have been able to collect thanks to you nearly €7,000 for these associations.
Please do not hesitate to come back to us with any questions you might have regarding this carbon footprint mechanism, our other sustainable développement commitments or even to share with us your experience through a chat or a mail at contact@secret-planet.com.
Mot de l'expert
Among the Seven Summits, the Roof of Europe is a must-see for any climber who wants to achieve this feat, climbing the seven highest peaks on each continent. More committed, but less crowded and wilder, this variant on the north route offers a more authentic and original dimension than the ascent of the Elbrus, by the south slope, more frequented and more classic. With a good acclimation in a beautiful high mountain atmosphere and with a day of relief, in case of bad weather, for the summit, we clearly put all chances on our side to achieve the ascent of a first great summit.
Departures and pricing
Please find below all dates and prices for this expedition. Prices are quoted "from" and may be adjusted notably according to the number of participants (see trip notes for details). Please note that dates and prices for years beyond 2024, when given, are for guidance only and are subject to change and readjustment to take account of current economic realities.
Dates currently being programmed
Alert me as soon as you set a datePrice includes
- 2 nights' twin room accommodation in a 3/4-star hotel in Pyatigorsk with breakfast
- Return transfer from Mineralnye Vody airport to Elbrus Hatansu base camp
- Full-board meals during ascent
- Accommodation in 2-8 person dormitories in base camp and advanced base camp refuges
- Toilets and showers in the camps
- 1 experienced English-speaking local mountain guide for every 4 participants (1 French-speaking guide on some departures, please consult us)
- Collective climbing equipment
- Satellite phone (for security purposes only)
- Electricity at refuges to charge small electronic equipment (cell phones, cameras)
- Experienced weather router
- Medical follow-up by Ifremmont during the expedition (see above)
- Unlimited text messaging to loved ones and security (InReach beacon)
- Videoconference meetings in France to prepare for the trip
Price does not include
- International return flight to Mineralnye Vody
- Taxes and climbing permits
- Consular fees (visa)
- Any customs duties on arrival in Russia
- Possible import taxes for satellite phones, professional communications equipment and commercial filming
- Porters between base camp and advanced base camp, rates to be negotiated locally (5 to 10 euros per kilo)
- Any additional hotel nights in Russia (over 2 nights).
- Single room supplement.
- All helicopter transfers
- Meals in Pyatigorsk other than breakfast and lunch, limited to 2 days.
- Expenses related to changes in the expedition schedule (additional nights' accommodation beyond 2 nights in Russia, meals, air supplements).
- Expenses related to the early return of the expedition or of certain members only (abandonment, etc.), generating costs for transfers (porters, guide, vehicle, plane, etc.), accommodation, meals, plane ticket changes or other activities not included in this program.
- US$300 summit bonus for your guide, to be paid on site after the ascent (whether or not the summit is reached), to be shared between participants.
- Any personal communications by satellite phone
- Personal equipment, including individual high-altitude gear
- Rental of personal high-altitude equipment, subject to availability
- Drinks and personal expenses (sightseeing, cabs, souvenirs, dry-cleaning, etc.)
- Travel and expedition insurance (assistance, evacuation and repatriation)
- Internet and wifi in refuges at extra cost
Your custom expedition
We put our expertise, our knowledge of the terrain, our creativity, our experience, the quality of our guides and the reliability of our partners at your service to build your custom expedition. We can also personalize an expedition to your wishes as soon as you form a "closed" group, whatever the number of participants.
This means that, unless you authorize us to do otherwise, no outside participants join you, and we can personalize your expedition by adapting it to your own pace, with the program extensions you desire, a higher level of comfort, certain activities, other encounters, etc.
Every expedition of this type is subject to a specific quotation. To get in touch with us now, please fill in the short questionnaire below. One of our experts will get back to you to refine your request and make you a proposal.
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