The most difficult summit in the Snow Leopard Challenge

Highlights

  • A challenging summit worthy of an 8000-meter peak
  • A long ridge route (3 km) to reach the summit
  • The highest point in the Tien Shan (Celestial Mountains)
  • Several contingency days to cope with the vagaries of the weather
  • H 24 personalized weather forecast services and medical hotline
  • Preparation course, live coverage of the expedition

It was not until 1943 that Pobeda Peak was identified as the highest peak in the Tien Shan or Celestial Mountains. For a long time, its close neighbour, Khan Tengri, seemed to be in first place. However, it was not until 1956 that Pobeda was climbed by the famous Russian mountaineer Vitali Abalakov, who gave it the pompous name of Victory Peak (Pobeda) in tribute to the Red Army. This name was retained at the end of the Soviet era, but in Kyrgyz "Jengish Chokosu". 

The intrinsic difficulties of the ascent are not much greater than those encountered when climbing Lenin Peak. It is the distances to be covered and the number of hours spent at over 7000 meters that make the climb so testing. To reach the advanced base camp (or Camp 1), you have to travel almost fifteen kilometers on a glacier. As you approach Camp 1, avalanches from the west face put the pressure on. Once we reach the west ridge, we are forced to spend many hours above 7000 meters, from Camp 5 to Camp 6, and then to the summit. Not to mention the return journey, which takes almost as long. All these difficulties combine to make Pobeda a major objective. 

Expedition code: EXU02319
28 days
Next departure on 24/07/2029
Carbon footprint: 5,32 tons of CO2
Activity:Mountaineering
Physical difficulty:Difficult
Technical difficulty:Climbing - Little Difficult (PD)
Highest night:Above 5,500 m
Comfort:Lodge
price from9,500
International flight not included
Expédition au départ du camp VI au Pobeda
Ascension au sommet du Pobeda au Kirghizistan
Derniers mètres avant le sommet du Pobeda
Expédition aux derniers mètres avant le sommet du Pobeda
Expédition à la face nord du Pobeda au Kirghizistan
Expédition sur l'arête du Pobeda au Kirghizistan
Expédition sur la corniche sur l'arête sommitale

Overview

BIRTH OF THE "SNOW LEOPARD"

In the 1960s, the USSR was at the height of its glory. But the borders were hermetic and the mountaineers of the Soviet Union expressed their (immense) talent on the many summits that rose from one end of the former Empire of the Tsars to the other. The Himalayas are off-limits to them. But their playground was gigantic: the Caucasus, Pamir-Alay, Fansky (Fann) Mountains, Great Pamir, Tien Shan, Kamtchatka... On 12 October 1967, to encourage and reward the best in the race to the top, the Bureau of the Central Council of Sports Societies and Organisations of the USSR decided to award a prize to those who managed to climb the five highest Soviet summits:

  • Khan Tengri Peak – 7010 meters on the Kyrgyzstan-Kazakhstan border
  • Korjenevskaya Peak – 7105 meters in Tajikistan
  • Lenin Peak – 7134 meters on the Tajikistan-Kyrgyzstan border
  • Victory Peak – 7439 meters in Kyrgyzstan
  • Ismoil Somoni Peak – 7495 meters in Tajikistan

The reward: to become a "Snow Leopard", the almost mythical animal that haunts the mountains of Central Asia. Many will be lining up to win the prestigious Snow Leopard medal. But almost exclusively climbers from beyond the Iron Curtain, from the Soviet Union. It was not until 1985 that the first two Westerners shared this immense privilege. Two Americans, followed by a Japanese climber in 1989. Finally, in 1997, a French couple, Brigitte and Pierre Meloni, won the prestigious medal. They were the third couple to win a medal. In 2011, Serge Hardy will be the fifth and last Frenchman to win the title. Who will be next? 

Five legendary peaks, all in the former USSR

The five peaks of the Snow Leopard Challenge, in ascending order of difficulty:

  • Ibn Sina Peak (formerly Lenin Peak) – 7134 meters on the Tajikistan-Kyrgyzstan border
  • Ozodi Peak (formerly Korjenevskaya) – 7105 meters in Tajikistan
  • Ismoil Somoni Peak (former Communism Peak) – 7495 meters in Tajikistan
  • Khan Tengri Peak – 7010 meters on the Kyrgyzstan-Kazakhstan border (the geological altitude is 6995 m, but due to its thick shell of ice at the summit, the official altitude is 7010 m)
  • Jengish Chokosu Peak (formerly Victory Peak, formerly Pobeda Peak) – 7439 meters in Kyrgyzstan
The final summit in the Snow Leopard Challenge, Pobeda has all the hallmarks of a prestigious peak. It is the highest point in the Tien Shan (Celestial Mountains) range. It is the highest northern summit on the planet. Its immense summit ridge stretches for a total of 12 kilometers, forcing climbers to make a long three-kilometer ascent to over 7000 meters. Maximum commitment, unstable weather, a great adventure at altitude. 

Expeditions Unlimited takes on the Snow Leopard challenge with Serge Bazin

Well-known to French-speaking mountaineers, Serge Bazin is a mountain guide (see his biography below). He has been guiding participants on high-altitude summits for many years. We have built up a strong relationship with him. He was our advisor on our first expedition to Manaslu (8163 m), and guided our last expedition to Makalu (8481 m). 

He regularly and successfully guided our participants to Lenin Peak at 7134 meters and guided them to the top of the Ozodi Peak (formerly Korzhenevskoï) in 2023 .

We are currently forming a close-knit group on these five climbs, the next three of which are massive. Either technically difficult, with the Khan Tengri via the north ridge, chosen because it is less exposed to objective dangers, or in terms of commitment at very high altitude, with the Ismoil Somoni Peak and its colossal plateau at 7000 meters and finally, in terms of objective risks, with the famous Victory Peak or Pobeda.

Click here to see the animated itinerary for the ascent of the 7439-meter peak of Pobeda


Itinerary

Day 0

EXPEDITION SUMMARY PROGRAMME

  • Days 1 & 2: Arrival in Bishkek
  • Day 3: Road transfer to Karkara (2200 m)
  • Day 4: Helicopter flight from Karkara to base camp (4000 m)
  • Day 5 & 6: Rest days
  • Day 7: Climb to Camp 1 on Pobeda Peak (4600 m)
  • Day 8: Climb to Pobeda Peak Camp 2 (5300 m)
  • Day 9: Climb to Camp 3 on Pic Pobeda (5800 m)
  • Day 10: Climb to Camp 4 on Pic Pobeda (6400 m)
  • Day 11: Descent to Camp 1 (4600 m)
  • Day 12: Descent to base camp (4000 m)
  • Day 13 & 14: Rest days at base camp
  • Day 15: Climb to Camp 1 (4600 m)
  • Day 16: Climb to Camp 2 (5300 m)
  • Day 17: Climb to Camp 3 (5800 m)
  • Day 18: Climb to Camp 4 (6400 m)
  • Day 19: Climb to Camp 5 (6900 m)
  • Day 20: Climb to Camp 6 (7100 m)
  • Day 21: Ascent of Pobeda Peak (7439 m) and return to Camp 5
  • Day 22: Descent to Camp 3 (5800 m)
  • Day 23: Descent to Camp 1 (4600 m)
  • Day 24: Descent to base camp
  • Day 25 & 26: Contingency days
  • Day 27: Helicopter flight from base camp to Karkara and transfer to Bishkek
  • Day 28: Return flight to Europe


EXPEDITION SUMMARY PROGRAMME

    Days 1 &2: Paris – Bishkek

    Day 1

    We land at Bishkek airport, the capital of Kyrgyzstan, where we are met by our partners. Transfer to the hotel for a few hours' rest to recover from the fatigue of the journey. 

    by private vehicle Meals: breakfasts not included – lunches not included – dinners in hotel Accommodations: nights in hotel

    Day 3: Bishkek – Karkara

    Day 3

    We head east towards the immense Lake Issykul, a veritable inland sea. The shores of the lake have been transformed into a "Riviera" where the inhabitants of Kyrgyzstan and even more so those of neighbouring Kazakhstan come to holiday during the summer months. Summer atmosphere guaranteed! Then we enter the area of hills and steppes that make up the foothills of the Tien Shan. After 470 kilometers, we reach Karkara (2200m), a magnificent meadow with many Kyrgyz yurts. This is a comfortable camp. Meals are served in a large yurt that will be used as a mess tent. The camp also has a bar, a sauna (for a fee), showers, a few shops and you can even hire mountain bikes.

    by private vehicle approximately 7 h approximately 2200 m Meals: breakfast in hotel – lunch with a picnic – dinner in campsite Accommodations: night in campsite

    Day 4: Karkara – Inyltchek South base camp

    Day 4

    A magnificent flight in the imposing MI 8 helicopter that takes us to the base camp on the southern slope of the Khan Tengri, on the southern branch of the Inyltchek Glacier, which is almost fifty kilometers long. The base camp is shared by Khan Tengri and Pobeda, at the confluence of the Inyltchek and Zviozdochka glaciers. During the flight, the view of the Tien Shan peaks is absolutely breathtaking. Arrival at the international base camp. Situated at an altitude of 4000 meters, the base camp has a large heated mess tent, showers and a sauna, making it rather welcoming. But situated on the glacier, in the shadow of the imposing south face of Khan Tengri and the north face of Pobeda, our objective, the conditions remain harsh.

    by helicopter approximately 1 h approximately 4000 m Meals: breakfast in campsite – lunch in campsite – dinner in campsite Accommodations: night in campsite

    Days 5 & 6: Rest days

    Day 5

    Quiet days at base camp, to give our bodies time to acclimatize. We can take advantage of this to get to know the other climbers of all nationalities present at the base camp. The views of the surrounding mountains are majestic, particularly the north face of Pobeda, the highest peak in the Tien Shan. 

    by private vehicle approximately 4000 m Meals: breakfasts in campsite – lunches in campsite – dinners in campsite Accommodations: nights in campsite

    Day 7: Climb to Podeba Camp 1

    Day 7

    Ascent to the Pobeda advanced base camp, also known as Camp 1, following the moraines on the right bank of the Zviozdochka Glacier to an altitude of 4500 meters. Crossing of the glacier (cairns). Camp 1 (4600m) lies at the foot of the imposing north face of Pobeda.

    approximately 5 h + 600 m approximately 4600 m Meals: breakfast in campsite – lunch in tents – dinner in campsite Accommodations: night in tents

    Day 8: Climb to Pobeda Camp 2

    Day 8

    Climb up the northern combe, which ends in a 30/40° couloir to reach the Dikiy Pass (5300 m). There is a short 20-meter steep section before reaching the pass. 

    approximately 7 h + 700 m approximately 5300 m Meals: breakfast in tents – lunch with a picnic – dinner in tents Accommodations: night in tents

    Day 9: Climb to Pobeda Camp 3

    Day 9

    Progress along the northern spur whose summit leads to west Pobeda Peak (6918 m). Camp 3 (5800 m) is halfway up the spur.

    + 500 m approximately 5800 m Meals: breakfast in tents – lunch in tents – dinner in tents Accommodations: night in tents

    Day 10: Climb to Pobeda Camp 4

    Day 10

    Mixed climbing route on the spur with some steep sections, including a triangle of black rock. Alternative camps are available at 6400 meters and 6600 meters. It is best to set up camp on the south side of the ridge to protect yourself from the very cold winds that generally blow from the west.

    approximately 6 h + 600 m approximately 6400 m Meals: breakfast in tents – lunch in tents – dinner in tents Accommodations: night in tents

    Day 11: Descent to Camp 1

    Day 11

    It is time to lose altitude and let our bodies recover. A long descent to the advanced base camp, also known as Camp 1. 

    approximately 5 h - 1800 m approximately 4600 m Meals: breakfast in tents – lunch with a picnic – dinner in tents Accommodations: night in tents

    Day 12: Descent to base camp

    Day 12

    For better recovery, we descend to the confluence of the two glaciers, to enjoy the comfort of our base camp.

    - 600 m Meals: breakfast in tents – lunch with a picnic – dinner in campsite Accommodations: night in campsite

    Days 13 & 14: Rest days

    Day 13

    Two days spent recovering in our comfortable base camp. 

    approximately 4000 m Meals: breakfasts in campsite – lunches in campsite – dinners in campsite Accommodations: nights in campsite

    Days 15 to 21: Ascent of Pobeda

    Day 15

    We gradually climb back up the mountain, spending the night at Camp 1, Camp 2, Camp 3 and Camp 4.


    From Camp 4 to Camp 5:

    We reach the summit of the north spur to end up on the west Pobeda Peak where we join the very long west ridge. Camp 5 (6900 m) is on the opposite (south) slope, less exposed to the wind.


    From Camp 5 to Camp 6:

    The very long ridge route begins at over 7000 meters, three kilometers that never end. At its longest, the ridge is 12 kilometers long. Camp 6 is set up in a depression at an altitude of 7100 meters, two-thirds of the way to the summit.


    From Camp 6 to the summit:

    The ride across the sky continues to the summit at 7439 meters, the highest point in the Tien Shan. 

    There is a long return journey, with little loss of altitude, to Camp 5.

    approximately 7 h approximately 6900 m approximately 7439 m Meals: breakfasts in tents – lunches with picnics – dinners in tents Accommodations: nights in tents

    Day 22 to 24: Descent to Base Camp

    Day 22

    Long return to base camp. Two days minimum, depending on the physical condition of the participants and the weather conditions. 

    approximately 7 h approximately 4360 m Meals: breakfast in tents – lunch with a picnic – dinner in tents Accommodations: night in tents

    days 25 & 26: Contingency days

    Day 25

    Contingency days to cover any unforeseen events. 

    approximately 4000 m Meals: breakfasts in tents – lunches in tents – dinners in tents Accommodations: nights in tents

    Day 27: Base Camp – Karkara – Bishkek

    Day 27

    Return helicopter flight to Karkara and direct transfer to Bishkek.

    by private vehicle approximately 7 h approximately 1 h Meals: breakfast in campsite – lunch not included – dinner not included Accommodations: night in hotel

    Day 28: Bishkek – Paris

    Day 28

    Depending on your flight schedule, transfer to the airport and flight to Paris.

    Meals: breakfast in hotel – lunch on the plane – dinner on the plane

    END OF EXPEDITION

    For reasons that cannot be foreseen at this stage, such as unpredictable weather, the physical fitness or lack of fitness of participants or other circumstancess (customs formalities, road conditions, traffic, landslides, force majeure, etc.), your expedition leader may have to adapt the program, if necessary, to ensure the smooth running of your trip. He remains the sole judge and the one who guarantees your safety. Activity times are given as an indication and may vary from one participant to another.

    The itinerary for all our expedition programs, or the ascent program for our high-mountain expeditions, are given here as a guide only. They are flexible enough to adapt to weather conditions with a few contingency days. In any case, you should follow the recommendations of your guide, who may suggest that you cancel your expedition due to weather, safety or physical conditions.

    It is important to remember that this is a truly unsupported expedition, and that anything can happen. Expeditions Unlimited, your expedition leader, your guide or our local teams can in no way be held responsible.

    Any costs incurred as a result of a change in the expedition schedule (extra nights' accommodation, extra flights) will be borne by the participants and not by the organizers. "Contingency days" refer to the expedition in the strict sense of the term (base camp/base camp in the mountains, departure point/exit point on a traverse, etc.).

    Any early return of the expedition or of certain members only (early success, abandonment, etc.), generating costs for accommodation, meals, changes to air tickets or other activities not provided for in this program, will be charged in full to the participants.

    Trip notes

    Guiding

    French mountain guide Serge Bazin.

    For unpredictable reasons at this stage, like adverse weather conditions, insufficient physical condition of participants, insufficient competencies of participants related to the intended activities, your guide may decide to adjust the intended program and/or activities. At all times, his decision will be final on all matters likely to affect the safety and well-being of the trip.

    Difficulty level

    Level rated: difficult

    This program is aimed at participants in good physical shape, with a significant sport practice, endurance in particular, holding a strong mental to face difficulties that are unforeseen by nature.

    Victory Peak (Pobeda) is rated as "difficult" because of the conditions you will be facing: very high altitude, very low temperatures, sometimes bad weather and strong winds.

    To be as self-sufficient as possible, you need to have significant mountaineering experience and be actively involved in hiking, trekking or mountaineering. You need to be able to progress in a roped party, either on your own or roped up with a guide, and you need to know how to handle ropes.

    For a relatively long period of time, the body will be subjected to considerable physical effort in a difficult environment, with the added handicap of high altitude. Rigorous training is obviously necessary, focusing on developing endurance and resistance: running, cycling, swimming, ski touring and, of course, mountaineering. This training needs to be regular and begins at least 6 to 8 months before the start of the expedition.

    Team spirit is also important. Each participant is responsible for applying safety rules, looking after his or her own equipment and maintenance, setting up the camp and preparing meals. As always in this type of project, the key to success is teamwork and team spirit.

    During the expedition, we carry a few personal items weighing no more than 7/8 kilos (sleeping bag, food, stove and gas, etc.). The high-altitude camps are equipped, so we do not have to "push" the tents.

    For those participants who do not wish to carry anything, it is possible to book porters on site, subject to availability. This cost is not included in our package. The cost is US$8/kg between Camp 1 and Camp 2 and US$10/kg between Camp 2 and Camp 3, to be paid locally. That said, the carrying culture in this part of the world is very different from that in the Himalayas, for example, and we cannot book these porters in advance. Also, carrying is not guaranteed.

    To register for this expedition, you will be asked to provide an expedition (mountain climb list)/trek/athlete CV. A medical certificate stating that you are not at risk of climbing at high altitude is also required.

     You benefit, free of charge and for the duration of your expedition, from membership in the 24/7 high altitude medical service set up with our partner Ifremmont, of which we are partners. See below.

    Technical difficulty

    Mountaineering level: PD like... A little difficult (Peu Difficile in French)

    In this program, the use of mountaineering equipment (crampons, harness, ice ax, ropes, etc.) is necessary and the route tackled may involve small difficulties, whether it is a little more inclined during glacier mountaineering, height of the walls, the length and the continuity of the efforts. It is therefore aimed at rough beginners who already have a little experience in mountaineering, who have already completed a few ascents of this level or slightly below. The mountaineering courses at our Adventure School from three days are for you. And this technical rating applies of course to normal weather conditions: the difficulty can increase in the event of bad conditions, fresh snow on rocks, insufficient or lack of quality of  ice , etc. Likewise, the situation changes radically, for the same technical level, with the altitude, the weight of the bag, the lack of equipment on the route, the fatigue associated with the approach if it is long, the environment, if particularly hostile, etc.

    Compagnies aériennes internationales

    For international transport from Paris to Bishkek on scheduled economy class flights with Aeroflot, Air Astana and Turkish Airlines.

    Important: airlines sometimes change their departure/arrival times: morning instead of evening and vice versa. It is therefore possible that the first and last days of the program may be modified according to the airline rotations at the time.

    Departures from Lyon or another provincial city are possible, depending on the airline, as are departures from Geneva or Brussels, sometimes at an additional cost. Please contact us for further information.

    As far as domestic flights are concerned, there is only one possible route, between Osh and Bishkek, and flights are subject to weather conditions and may be cancelled or postponed.

    Accommodations

    Texts from Pic Lenin to be adapted:

    At the base camp, you are in a two-person tent, with wooden supports to insulate you from the ground and a mattress. Electricity is provided at the base camp, as are hot showers. Wifi is available, but at a charge.

    The first two camps have a kitchen tent, a mess tent for meals and toilet tents.

    From Camp 2 onwards, you are in a two-person expedition tent, or three on the last camp. These tents are pre-installed in the camps, even if they need to be flattened and reassembled when you arrive. Either way, they are there and you do not have to carry them.

    All camps have a storage tent where you can leave any equipment or belongings you are not taking with you.

    Other info from camptocamp

    A few words about Pamir Peaks, which organises the whole base camp and the car/helicopter approach: all the agencies have been going through them for a few years now and P.Peaks is the only one authorized to do so.

    Disappointing service compared to Kazakh and Kyrgyz comparables, although more expensive.

    -> In particular, the food was very inadequate ([b]bring your own extra![/b]) and the hygiene was poor.

    For the rest, the place is superb and pleasant on the edge of a small lake, there's even a bit of grass, and some ‘siberian ibex’. It's a lot colder than the Khan Tengri CB, because it's not on a glacier. The weather is also more stable.

    One final comment: the helicopter take-off from the CB is always impressive to see and experience. Or you have to walk back ;)

    Meals

    In Dushanbe, only breakfast is included. Depending on the flight plan, you should therefore plan to pay for your meals on the spot, which will give you a little freedom to choose your food.

    Texts from Pic Lenin to be adapted:

    At base camp, meals are prepared by our local team using local produce and served in the mess tent.

    For the higher camps, you will be able to compose your own menus in the form of freeze-dried rations. These rations contain, among other things, coffee and tea, cereals, mashed potatoes, soup, broth, Chinese noodles, freeze-dried dishes, snacks and so on. Remember to bring your favourite energy bars, as the choice is not exceptional in Tajikistan!

    HYDRATION

    Bring tablets (such as Hydroclovazone or Micropur) to disinfect the water you put in your water bottle, depending on the source and on the advice of your guide. It is sometimes possible to buy purified water and fill your flask without having to buy bottled water. You can also buy mineral water in the towns (not included in the price) but, as you know, it has a poor environmental record. So we don't recommend it. 

    Transfers / Transport

    On the outward journey, transport between Dushanbe and the town of Jirgital is provided by private minibus. 

    By MI-8 helicopter between Jirgital and the base camp. On the return journey, the same helicopter takes you directly from the base camp to Dushanbe. 

    Group size

    The group is made up of a maximum of 4 to 6 participants. The number of participants is deliberately limited to allow for greater immersion, to avoid embarrassing our hosts, and to develop freedom and flexibility. However, the maximum number may be exceeded if the last person to register wishes to travel with one or more other people. The services will not be modified, and the conditions of the trip will remain the same.

    Equipment

    Personal equipment is not provided. A full list is given later in this document. It will be refined with the expedition leader during the preparation days and up to the moment of departure, depending on your questions.

    All logistical equipment is provided, including high altitude tents and all collective and individual cooking equipment. Your guide will have a satellite telephone to keep in touch with the outside world, as well as communication and safety equipment, a geolocation beacon, etc. The expedition has a hyperbaric chamber, and a collective pharmacy is available, although it does not replace the compulsory individual pharmacy, a list of which will be provided by Ifremmont.

    COMMUNICATIONS

    The Iridium satellite phone is used for logistical, weather and safety purposes only. Under certain conditions, participants will be able to use this telephone. For these private uses, please contact us.

    At the time of writing, all participants are free to bring any systems they may have. We will just need to be able to declare them to our contacts, so please let us know in advance.

    Please note: in order to preserve the serenity of this expedition and the privacy of the participants, we ask you not to communicate with the general public during the expedition. You are, however, free to send information about yourself to your private sphere. By registering for this program, you accept this essential clause to protect the privacy of other participants in a project of this scale, where important issues of image, physical risk and financial considerations (sponsors, etc.) are at stake.

    Our commitments to sustainable development

    Our commitment to a better planet has been a reality since the beginning of our story but we always need to do more and better. Please find out more about our charter and our commitments in terms of sustainable development. We have drafted our charter and take action through six themes on which we act as concretely as possible, most often with you: social equity and cultural respect, preservation of water, waste management in expedition, protection of biodiversity, raise public awareness on these subjects and finally, the optimization and recovery of CO2 emissions.

    Regarding carbon emissions, most of which are due to air travel, we calculated and communicated in 2018 on the carbon footprint of each of our programs, expressed in tonnes of CO2.

    These calculations made us aware of the importance of the total carbon emissions generated by our activity. Also, we have committed in 2022 to a carbon reduction that we believe is unprecedented in the tourism industry, aiming to reduce the total emissions of our activity by 5% per year, taking 2019 as the reference year (3,430 tonnes of CO2). This commitment is in line with the trajectory of the Paris climate agreements of 2015, the current benchmark. Thus, in 2030, we commit ourselves not to exceed 2,160 tonnes of C02. Thus, our maximum “carbon” budget for 2024 is 2,950 tonnes and for 2025, this budget will be reduced to 2,800 tonnes. And so on until 2030. To find out more about all of our calculations and our commitments in terms of reducing our carbon emissions.

    In addition, since 2019, we have been encouraging you when you book for your journey to contribute with a donation to an independent NGO, among the two we have selected that share the commitments made in our charter. We matched the amount of this donation to this program's carbon footprint. Thus, the journey you are considering generates 5,32 tons of CO2, which corresponds to a 100% donation of 160 for an estimated value today of €30 per tonne of CO2. This donation remains of course optional and you can decide to give between nothing and 100% of this amount. Since 2019, including covid years of 2020 and 2021, we have been able to collect thanks to you nearly €7,000 for these associations.

    Please do not hesitate to come back to us with any questions you might have regarding this carbon footprint mechanism, our other sustainable développement commitments or even to share with us your experience through a chat or a mail at contact@secret-planet.com.

    Serge Bazin, mountain guide

    Originally from Toulon, Serge Bazin did his military service with the Alpine hunters in Bourg-Saint-Maurice. Trained as a topographer and surveyor, he moved to Chamonix in 1985. Together with a team of surveyors, they regularly measure the summit of Mont Blanc, which they climb on foot or skis. In 2021, they will celebrate their twentieth measurement!

    For over 20 years, he has been concentrating on his job as a mountain guide, and has travelled all over the world, tackling rare or well-known summits, with participants he guides or with friends. He gives training courses, and prefers self-guided alpine-style expeditions in snow, ice, rock or mixed terrain. He has climbed several "big walls" (El Capitan eight times in Yosemite, USA).

    He has been passionate about the Himalayas, and Nepal in particular, for 30 years, and returns there every year, either alone or with participants. Treks, traverses, ascents to 6000, 7000, 8000... His experience makes him one of France's most experienced high-altitude guides.

    • Serge has guided participants to the summits of three eight-thousanders: Makalu (8475 m), Manaslu (8163 m) and Cho Oyu (8201 m).

    In addition to numerous treks and passes approaching 6000 meters, his list of Asian climbs includes the following peaks, usually with participants he guided, and sometimes several times :

    • Summits over 7000 meters: Himlung Himal (7127 m), Lhakpa Ri (7043 m), Korjenevskaya Peak (Tajikistan, 7105 m) and Lenin Peak (Kyrgyzstan, 7134 m), which he has climbed four or five times. He has also attempted the rare Nepalese peaks of Makalu 2 (7650 m – stop at 7500), Langtang Lirung (7200 m – stop at 7000), Ratna Chuli (7127 m– stop at 7000) and Gyanjing Kang (7200 m – stop at 6600 m) with other participants;
    • Summits over 6000 meters: Ama Dablam (6856 m), Mera Peak (6470 m), Island Peak (6187 m), Lobuche Peak (6100 m), Pacharmo (6273 m), central Kongde Ri (6187 m), Kyajo Ri (6186 m), Daulhagiri VI – Ongde (6500 m), Chulu West (6419 m), Chulu East (6584 m), Thorung Peak (6100 m), Dhampus Peak (6012 m).

    Since 1993, Serge has been offering children special "child walkers" trekking tours, which have seen some forty 8–18 year-olds trekking Nepal with him over the years. Some of them have since become guides...

    Finally, he is a guide-trainer for ANENA - Association Nationale Etude Neige et Avalanches, a Grenoble-based training and information institute founded in 1971 by Louis Néel, winner of the Nobel Prize for physics.

    In short, Serge has the experience and teaching know-how to optimize your expedition's chances of success, both technically and in terms of group management, both in terms of the pace at which the group builds up its strength and in terms of its progress, which are key elements in this type of expedition.

    Departures and pricing

    Please find below all dates and prices for this expedition. Prices are quoted "from" and may be adjusted notably according to the number of participants (see trip notes for details). Please note that dates and prices for years beyond 2024, when given, are for guidance only and are subject to change and readjustment to take account of current economic realities.

    No date works for me!

    I initiate a new date

    Price includes

    Transfers tel qu’indiqués dans le programme. Accommodations tel qu’indiqués dans le programme. Meals tel qu’indiqués dans le programme. Guiding tel qu’indiqués dans le programme. Equipment tel qu’indiqués dans le programme. Travel folder tel qu’indiqués dans le programme. Parks and reserves tel qu’indiqués dans le programme.

    Price does not include

    All accompaniments, accommodations or meals mentioned “not included” in the program. Drinks and personal “extras”. The “single” supplement or a different hotel category. Other supplements linked to a lower number of participants registered, your desire to customize or privatize the expedition. The mandatory expedition complementary insurance.

    Your custom expedition

    We put our expertise, our knowledge of the terrain, our creativity, our experience, the quality of our guides and the reliability of our partners at your service to build your custom expedition. We can also personalize an expedition to your wishes as soon as you form a "closed" group, whatever the number of participants.

    This means that, unless you authorize us to do otherwise, no outside participants join you, and we can personalize your expedition by adapting it to your own pace, with the program extensions you desire, a higher level of comfort, certain activities, other encounters, etc.

    Every expedition of this type is subject to a specific quotation. To get in touch with us now, please fill in the short questionnaire below. One of our experts will get back to you to refine your request and make you a proposal.

    Consentement RGPD

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